My goal from this thread is to find the goto person for suspension upgrades on a 70 442.

1. Need help choosing correct 4-link for A-Body
2. Need help choosing additional suspension (shocks etc) to go with 4 link setup
3. Need help with additional modifications to suspension for a 800 Tq 700 HP street build

Thank you in advance.

 

Here's what I have. My car works pretty well at the track.
But there's no ONE way to do it.
496 BTR about 625hp

REAR
325/50 R on 15x10 wheel
QP Ford 9" with 3.91 & spool
Strange DA shocks
Moroso Springs
UMI Fully adjustable upper control arms
UMI Lower control arms
TRZ Weld in ARB
Victory Driveshaft(Denis Mothershed)

FRONT
Cheapie Tubular A-arms
Viking Coil overs 350lb Springs
Moog ball joints and other pieces

TH400 with 3400 Dynamic convertor got me a best of 10.75@124 with a 1.49 60ft
I've just installed a 4200 stall that should get me down to about 1.44 hopefully
-peter

(and the down bars on my ARB no longer hang down that low!)
​​​​​​​

 

Peter is correct; there's more than one way to skin this cat. 3 very important items that are always stressed: no bushings on any mount points, double adjustable shocks, and a frame referenced anti roll bar. My 67 is UMI uppers with rod ends and Roto-joints, unknown lowers with rod ends and solid bushings, a home brewed Blazer anti roll bar with poly bushings, and Viking double adjustable shocks. I haven't had it to the track since the bar and shocks, but I can tell a difference on the street.
Tire and rim size also comes into play, especially if you plan on running class rules. I have 275/60-15 Nitto 555rs on 15x7 rims because I was being cheap, and it never hooked below a 1.81 60' I hear putting the same tire on a 15x10 helps. Running a properly sized rim with a 295, 315, or 325 is definitely the way to go unless you want to run dedicated slicks. I may end up there someday. I have this thing in my head about Fox body Mustangs doing 7s on 275s, though.

 

https://www.trzmotorsports.com/produ...ody/1968-1972/

The best. Period.

 

​​​​​​​What does your car 60 foot?

 

 

Thanks Chad…

What does that beast 60ft???
1.3? 1.2?

I would LOVE the TRZ front A-arms…I just worry they can’t handle a lot of street use.
-peter

 

My best is a 1.23 60 ft. Adding 68 cubes and hopefully 125+ hp for next season. Hoping I can improve on that number.

 

Gawd damn.
That’s cool.
-p

 

Chad, are you full 4 link or still GM triangulated?

 

I've been 1.26 with my Chevelle @ 3600 pounds NA 9 inch slick.
I've been 1.22 with the 70 Camaro @ 3440 pounds NA 10 inch slick

1.49 60 is a mid 11 sec car.

 

Looks like he’s running ladder bars

 

​​​​​​What does that have to do with an "A" body.

​​​​​​Try giving advice or help instead of trying to show off.

 

Wild Rides has a pretty sweet crossmember, I picked one up not long ago for my car. haven't had time to glue it in yet.

https://wildridesracecars.com/produc...m-crossmember/

 

My car went 11:52 at 117mph, with a 1.60 60ft. 60ft will also change with weight of car. My car weights 4100lbs with me in it. 15x10 what back space did you use to fit a 325 50?

 

Wild Rides makes good product 👍. They also have good support.

Power is power regardless of weight. In other words if you have the power to accelerate 4100# to 11.5's you also have the power to accelerate in the 60 ft too. I think you can do better than 1.6's in my opinion.
​​​​
As for the original question you need to look at your complete chassis not just the individual suspension components to make sure that all work together.

 

So if you took my 530 hp 432, and put it in a 3200lb car, it's going to run 11:50's with a 1.60 60ft? Heavier cars require more torque to move them from a dead stop than lighter cars do.

 

Now you know very well that's not going to happen, right?


5.5" BS

 

No I didn't make myself clear. Weight has a direct impact on acceleration. What I was trying to elude to is if you are running 11.5's regardless if weight you should have a certain 60 foot. A 1.6 second 60 foot at a 11.5 et is a bit slower than I would expect. This is assuming the car is set up for racing.

 

Got it! Street and strip car, have to give to get.

 

So, option C...

 

Peter,

Thank you for the super detailed information. I am having to dump my old knowledge with Fords and grasp this. Took the time and reviewed every piece you listed on the MFGr websites. The first step for me (and looks like you did also) is slip a Ford 9" under the rear. I was looking at the builder on the Currie website:

https://www.currieenterprises.com/64...earend-builder

My issue is all the experts do not agree on the load these can handle. It is only a few thousand difference to build it all out vs half way so we will spend the extra money. That handles the rear.

The item I do not understand on your photo of the rear end is the ARB. This is where I have to dump my Ford knowledge. ARB on a Ford has the ARB bar up on the frame above the rear (without 4-link). Please forgive my lack of knowledge here and I much appreciate all the help. Here are my questions:

1. Does the ARB on the 442 need to sit below the rear differential? (I really do not see how this works)
2. Would you mind to give an exact part on the TRZ site for the ARB you would choose?
4. I do not see a 4-link on your setup. Any opinions on this?

Thanks again to everyone on the topic.

 

I goofed. I missed where you said 4 link.
I still have the factory triangulated set up.

I have seen ARB’s that mount above the axle as well.
I found a pic of an ARB mounted below with a 4 link for ya.
Yellowbullet.com is a great way to really research whats out there and what works.
These cars are the same as any A-body.
-peter

 

The arb can be mounted several different ways. The important thing is to reference the axle twist to the frame, not against the opposite control arm like the factory did. I adapted one from a 2000 Blazer; it's above and in front of the axle with the down links connected to the frame crossmember.

 

There are so many variables that determine 60’ times that comparing notes here is somewhat useless. Besides the differences in the cars themselves, track conditions, weather conditions, tire condition, shocks and shock settings, launch rpm, tire pressure, driver’s seat time and ability, track altitude, and other things come into play. Sure, there are cars that work better than others and two cars might have identical equipment, but if one is “scienced out” more than the other, it will yield better results. Very few cars work as well as they possibly could without a lot of testing. Asking for help is a great idea, but try to gather info and data from cars that will be close to your car. Seeking advice from an owner or driver of a car that is 1,000 pounds lighter than your’s will not only frustrate you and drain your wallet, it might put you in the wall on race day. And asking for help from a small block stick guy won’t help if you’re running a big block automatic….Here is my advice if you are serious about building a competitive and safe car: find a competent chassis shop and discuss your intentions and your budget. You can also go to a divisional race or points meet and ask owners/drivers of cars like you want to build some questions when they are not busy. Don’t interrupt them if they’re busy…those guys take it pretty serious. Usually, racers will help you in a general sort of way, but won’t divulge any secrets that make them more competitive than someone else in their class.
Good luck in your endeavor…we all were in your shoes at one time!