jwr7042

Just wanting to get input on which would be the best way to go for traction and wheel hop problems. Looking at ladder bars or no hop bars which would you recommend.

11971four4two

South side machine makes some GOOD stuff for abody cars
cutlass 442 etc

Until 1974 and then you are raging with the CAL TRAC camaro guys

Be safe
HAVE FUN
b

Run to Rund

No hop bars raise the pivot point on the differential which can help. Keeping the back end low helps a lot, making the geometry of the factory 4-link suspension correct for traction.

Bernhard

You might want to look into the new anti roll bars that are on the market.
Along with upper adjustable arms to control pinion angle.
I would also check out global west roto joints for bind free axle movement.
Shocks and lower control arm bushings will also have to be addressed.
You can further tune the rear suspension with springs that have different height and spring rate.
We have run no hop bars in the past but are going in the direction that I have listed.
Look at traction as a package deal that you can tune to meet your needs.

Good luck

TripDeuces

No hop bars work great and you won't notice them on the street. Ladder bars will make you want to stomp puppies unless this is a total track car.
I've rarely seen cars wheel hop at stock ride height. Did you raise the rear end somehow?
A set of air bags will work wonders too when set up properly. I'd suggest 5#s in the left bag and 10-15#s on the right. Start at 10 and see if it launches straight. Add one pound at a time until it stops wanting to twist coming out of the gate.
The no hp bars will force the body and suspension to separate forcing the rear tires down into the pavement increasing traction.

Bernhard

Nohop bars will prevent the back of the car from being lowered beyond the height of the no- hop bars. When trying to lower the back of the car the limiting factor will be when the nohop bars make contact with the trunk floor.
We also ran air bags with our nohop bars and along with other mods like 6cyl springs up front and removing the front sway bar the car never spun the tires with slicks.

oldsmobiledave

Dick Miller suspension or BMR

Bernhard

You need to know your budget and goals for the car. Then you can match it to all the options that are out there.
Take your time and research the topic and try and match the parts so that they work well together.

69455

Above on the head
I Dead hook with above type suspension (Pinion angle key)

coppercutlass

I dead hook on the street. specially after tying the engine block to the frame with a limiter strap . I would get a little wheel hop but im not into doing burnouts on the street. At the strip i get no wheel hop in the burn out box and it hooks and leaves a smidge of day light under the left front tire.

90/10's , moroso trick springs and no sway bar in the front.

Stock uppers , stock home boxed lowers new rubber bushings , hr parts n stuff rear sway bar , 442 rear springs with an air bag in the right rear.

I used to be able to blast the tires off on the street but im lucky if i can get them to brake loose. Kinda sad considering it runs 12.40's but like i said i take care of business at the strip.

In the pick im attaching you can see some wheel hop on a less than great surface but it eventually started to hook and the wheel hop went away. I did this burn out from a stand still not loading the chassis up and letting that weight transfer go to the rear. it took a few feet for that to happen as this picture shows it. If i load up the chassis the car will just hook and go.

I ran no hop bars but they bent the axle housing. I havent had any traction aids since then. I have no issues hooking up with the stock stuff.

80 Rocket

My 80 Cutlass is a 100% stock suspension with the exception of adjustable uppers tubular lower control arms. No sway bar in the rear or front. My car has been 1.49 60ft on the footbrake and went 11.13 @ 117 down the 1/4 mile.

rtanner

I would also add, look at copper cultlass avatar, see that ride height, it is important on a-bodys, w stock type suspension, rear ride height not be jacked up, Also what copper describes here is a very very budget friendly set up, that flat works, it has been used thousands of times since the 60s, and flat works, I recommend any novice starting there, and working up to the high dollar stuff as exp allows, not starting with high dollar and trying to sort it out,