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I think the Speedmaster rockers have 7/16" bolts which would require enlarging the bolt holes in iron heads whereas both Harland Sharp and Scorpion utilize 5/16" bolts. I would think that the Speedmaster rockers could tolerate higher valve spring pressures and higher lift than the others.
^^^^^^^^^^ Dale, do you have any experiences with these Speedmaster rockers? Would recommend/sell them to someone with a street/strip daily driver style car? A car that runs 11.0 in the 1/4, solid roller and maybe 8000 miles a year??
My Speedmasters are sitting and waiting for the off season to install and was looking at running these rockers, just don't know of anyone who has with success? Would rather air on the side of caution with PRW steel rocker if these are iffy.
^^^^^^^^^^ Dale, do you have any experiences with these Speedmaster rockers? Would recommend/sell them to someone with a street/strip daily driver style car? A car that runs 11.0 in the 1/4, solid roller and maybe 8000 miles a year??
My Speedmasters are sitting and waiting for the off season to install and was looking at running these rockers, just don't know of anyone who has with success? Would rather air on the side of caution with PRW steel rocker if these are iffy.
Ive never used any of their rocker. there are so many other good choices out there.
do they say what the max spring pressure is they can take?
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; July 22nd, 2023 at 05:14 PM.
Interestingly enough, I have discovered that the Speedmaster Olds heads run the Ford small block Windsor rocker arms perfectly. Even the guys at Speedmaster didn't believe me, so I sent them this dynamic valve train test video so that they could see it with their own eyes:
Below are the part numbers for use on the 7/16 rocker studs:
1.6 ratio rockers in stainless steel that I have beat the monkey snot out of without any failures on high spring rates and RPM's: PCE261.1075.01
The super strong 8650 chromoly 1.7 ratio rockers are PCE261.1199
Both of these above ultra strong rockers can be fit under stock height valve covers if you use the short poly locks: PCE255.1005
I run the rockers above with these heavier springs: PCE436.1003 These are 145# on the seat, 420lbs./in @ .600 lift which are also found to be a direct swap out replacement for the standard springs supplied in the Speedmaster Olds heads. Re-use the factory hardened steel spring seats provided with the cylinder heads, discard the ones provided with these heavier springs (or prepare to machine the spring pockets larger OR machine the spring seats smaller in diameter). ** DO NOT USE THESE HEAVY SPRINGS ON A FLAT TAPPET CAM - THEY WILL WIPE THE LOBES OUT UNLESS THE CAM IS SPECIALLY TREATED TO TAKE THE HEAVY SPRING PRESSURES - ROLLER LIFTERS ONLY**
Here are the 7/16 rocker studs that I use: PCE260.1007
Note that I have had to shorten the ends that screw into the heads to .625" (from the bottom of the six point hex) = finished stud length end to end of 2.400" due to the not being able to break loose the helicoil tangs down inside of the threaded stud holes (oddly enough). This can be done with a drill that has a 1/2" chuck to spin the studs, using a high speed cutoff wheel on an air motor to remove about one thread of length. Use calipers to double check the length of the threads (that engage into the cylinder head), sneaking up onto .625" +/- (of threaded length from the bottom of the six point hex, which will yield an overall finished stud length of 2.4"). Again using the drill motor to spin the stud, bevel the threaded ends you have shortened on a fine bench grinder stone or with a "brown cookie" on an air motor, then use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to polish the shortened ends. Of course a machine shop can also do this for you too, but what fun is that, right?
The standard issue 3/8 pushrod guide plates are PCE251.1001
I have also recently discovered that the Pontiac 5/16 pushrod guide plates work on the Speedmaster Olds heads: PCE251.1026
For what it's worth, I have been finding that 9.200" length pushrods have been the standard on builds using the Howards Rollers with a lifter seat height of 2.685" (which is rather standard for retrofit roller lifters). Don't trust that info as the golden number though. I ALWAYS use machinists blue on the valve tips to check the witness marks left by the roller tips of the rockers to make sure they are running dead center.
Hopefully this helps!
Once again, your friendly Ukranian mad scientist,
Paul...
Last edited by Clark455; July 25th, 2023 at 10:34 AM.
Interestingly enough, I have discovered that the Speedmaster Olds heads run the Ford small block Windsor rocker arms perfectly. Even the guys at Speedmaster didn't believe me, so I sent them this dynamic valve train test video so that they could see it with their own eyes: Ford 302 Stainless Rockers on Speedmaster Olds Heads
Below are the part numbers for use on the 7/16 rocker studs:
1.6 ratio rockers in stainless steel that I have beat the monkey snot out of without any failures on high spring rates and RPM's: PCE261.1075.01
The super strong 8650 chromoly 1.7 ratio rockers are PCE261.1199
Both of these above ultra strong rockers can be fit under stock height valve covers if you use the short poly locks: PCE255.1005
I run the rockers above with these heavier springs: PCE436.1003 These are 145# on the seat, 420lbs./in @ .600 lift which are also found to be a direct swap out replacement for the standard springs supplied in the Speedmaster Olds heads. Re-use the factory hardened steel spring seats provided with the cylinder heads, discard the ones provided with these heavier springs (or prepare to machine the spring pockets larger OR machine the spring seats smaller in diameter). ** DO NOT USE THESE HEAVY SPRINGS ON A FLAT TAPPET CAM - THEY WILL WIPE THE LOBES OUT UNLESS THE CAM IS SPECIALLY TREATED TO TAKE THE HEAVY SPRING PRESSURES - ROLLER LIFTERS ONLY**
Here are the 7/16 rocker studs that I use: PCE260.1007
Note that I have had to shorten the ends that screw into the heads to .625" (from the bottom of the six point hex) = finished stud length end to end of 2.400" due to the not being able to break loose the helicoil tangs down inside of the threaded stud holes (oddly enough). This can be done with a drill that has a 1/2" chuck to spin the studs, using a high speed cutoff wheel on an air motor to remove about one thread of length. Use calipers to double check the length of the threads (that engage into the cylinder head), sneaking up onto .625" +/- (of threaded length from the bottom of the six point hex, which will yield an overall finished stud length of 2.4"). Again using the drill motor to spin the stud, bevel the threaded ends you have shortened on a fine bench grinder stone or with a "brown cookie" on an air motor, then use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to polish the shortened ends. Of course a machine shop can also do this for you too, but what fun is that, right?
The standard issue 3/8 pushrod guide plates are PCE251.1001
I have also recently discovered that the Pontiac 5/16 pushrod guide plates work on the Speedmaster Olds heads: PCE251.1026
For what it's worth, I have been finding that 9.200" length pushrods have been the standard on builds using the Howards Rollers with a lifter seat height of 2.685" (which is rather standard for retrofit roller lifters). Don't trust that info as the golden number though. I ALWAYS use machinists blue on the valve tips to check the witness marks left by the roller tips of the rockers to make sure they are running dead center.
Hopefully this helps!
Once again, your friendly Ukranian mad scientist,
Paul...
Paul, THANK YOU. A lot of useful info there with your personal experience as another added benefit. I am surprised that you have used these stud mount PCE rockers on Olds, but no mention of shaft mount PCE261.1116? My thoughts would be for the little more $$$ go with a shaft mount if you can??????
THANKS for [peoples input. STILL figuring out what I want.
Paul, THANK YOU. A lot of useful info there with your personal experience as another added benefit. I am surprised that you have used these stud mount PCE rockers on Olds, but no mention of shaft mount PCE261.1116? My thoughts would be for the little more $$$ go with a shaft mount if you can??????
THANKS for [peoples input. STILL figuring out what I want. [h2]
AMC, Ford Windsor, Olds, and Pontiac all have SIMILAR geometry. However it’s up to the manufacturer as to which way they want to cheat. I have had some “Ford” rockers work fine, others not so much.
Last edited by cutlassefi; July 25th, 2023 at 05:01 PM.
For years, if you ordered one individual rocker from Harland Sharp , for an AMC , SBF , Olds and some straight six apps, they all had the same part#
that’s because they are the only ones who make a true Olds rocker😉😁
back in the 90’s you could go to any wrecking yard and find some 5.0 mustang GT 1.7 Crane aluminum rockers, swap them onto your Olds with some guide plates and add some instant HP.
I ordered in a set of the shaft mount PCE261.1116 rockers to evaluate and did not like them for a couple of reasons (it certainly isn't about the additional cost). One, they wouldn't fit under a stock height valve cover (which doesn't bother some people in their builds but is important to me) (as there is no reason for a valve train to be overly obtrusive in my opinion), and two, I am a stickler about the roller tips centering perfectly across the tips of the valves in all planes. The plus side of these PCE261.1116 shaft rockers is that they are good looking (not that you will see them once the engine is buttoned up of course), have the alternate design for setting the valve lash / lifter preload at the tips of the pushrods (as opposed to the poly locks acting on the main body of the rocker), and do also seem beefy in your hands, if not just a tad bulky. When I test fit a pair onto some of the Speedmaster Olds heads, I couldn't get the rollers to center out as cleanly across the tips of the valves as I require (speaking of looking at the engine from a front to rear perspective). With the other rockers I have mentioned, (the PCE261.1075.01 and the PCE261.1199) I have most always been able to shift the guide plates around just right to get the roller tips of the rockers to center out, essentially individually tuning each rocker pair to their respective valves as they are installed. I have encountered some variations in these rockers, where I will run into a scenario where they do not want to line up and will then shuffle different rockers around from position to position / even set to set if needed to work out the alignments to the valve tips just right.
Here's another part number that may come in handy for some readers: PCE252.1001 These are hardened lash caps that fit onto the tops of the 11/32 valve tips (that the Speedmaster and various other Olds heads run). They are .080" thick for installed height, so you would have to consider this when setting up your pushrod length to run these (you can't just pop these in without upsetting the rocker arm geometry). The benefit they provide is a harder surface for the rockers to really pound down onto without hurting the tips of the valves when running heavy springs in high RPM scenarios. They also provide a wider surface across the tops of the valves, which increases the overall contact patch of the considerably wider roller wheels on the rocker arms (distributing the load across the entire roller wheel width). In some cases, they are wide enough to allow an ever so slight off center rocker arm tip to valve alignment issue that would have otherwise not been kosher in a non-capped standard valve tip to roller rocker wheel alignment. Ideally the roller tip of the rocker should always be dead nuts centered across the tip of the valve, but sometimes that is easier said than done. I don't like using adjustable guide plates, as they are pesky to set up, and nowhere near as beefy as a solid guide plate. I had one build that just refused to line up to my liking on a particular cylinder, trying different guide plates, rotating out rockers from other ones on hand, ultimately resulting in cutting up a guide plate right down the center and then painstakingly TIG welding it back together to nail the alignment just right - sigh, these things happen...
For what it's worth, I am glad that my posting seems to have spurred others to chime in (as it seemed like all the birds were sitting on the fence waiting for the first one to take the plunge). As far as "discovery", many of my "new" findings within my builds may be old common knowledge to some, though so many seemingly want to keep this information close to the vest like some kind of proprietary tricks of the trade. If I get in here and stir the pot up a little, it may be a good laugh for those that already have known about these things for years but helps bring to light what seems to be so buried in the secrets of building an Olds for many others.
Just my .02 cents for what it's worth and for whom I may be able to help. Of course, your mileage may vary.
Paul...
Last edited by Clark455; July 25th, 2023 at 07:53 PM.
Paul, so how far "off-center" would you say the shafts were? This will be for a 99% street driven 455 OLDS. So low revs. I already have 5 sets of jesels on my BBc and just like the fact that you hold down the rocker and the adjuster is separate from the clamping force.
The experience I had was that the edge of the roller was right at the edge of the tip of the valve stem. The tip of the valve stem was technically fully covered by the roller wheel, so it would have ran, but I fussed around with setup for a bit to see if rotating through the various other rockers might help which it did not. I then reached for the usual studs, guide plates, and stainless rockers to see how they interfaced, finding that jockeying around the guide plate placed the roller wheels much more squarely over the tip of the valves. I tried another cylinder on the opposite side of the engine to see if a different head / location may act better which it did not, so I returned the PCE261.1116 rockers and "just" ran with the usual PCE261.1075.01 and called it done.
Not being able to "aim" the rockers on the PCE261.1116 shaft mount arrangement removed my ability to tune this interface of the rocker arm roller wheel targeting in relation to the tip of the valve. I had considered ordering in a set of the PCE252.1001 lash caps, which would have widened the overall contact area of the tip of the roller wheel, but it still would have been off center just enough to choose to back out of using these rockers. I noticed that the picture CanadianOlds posted with the blue rocker arms has lash caps (across the tops of the two valves that have the test springs) should you be curious as to a visual of what the lash caps look like installed. You will see the rest of the valves in that image look normal, but the two valves where the blue rockers are in place have the much wider black lash caps installed onto the tops of the valves, providing a big fat wide interface for the tips of the roller rockers.
You should be fine. If I had left the interface the way it was, it's not like it would have particularly caused any direct trouble, as it was technically covering the entire tip of the valve. My thoughts were that long term abuse against heavy spring pressure may have eventually haunted me with an ever so slight side loading of the rocker wheel. Whenever I get that nagging feeling that something may come around to bite me later, I back out of it in the name of longevity. I build all of my engines to be able to withstand a cross country trip at any point, emphasis on endurance over horsepower. It takes almost 6 gallons to fill my cooling system, 11 quarts to fill my oiling system, 16 quarts to fill my transmission, 2 quarts to fill my power steering system, and 4 quarts to fill my rear axle on my 442 if that gives you an idea of how much emphasis I place on endurance.
Summary? It's mostly me, not necessarily the parts. I'm just very particular about my builds, obsessing over details that wouldn't bother most. I say order the shaft rockers in, carefully mock them up on your heads (don't mar anything up as you might be returning these), and if your fine, well, your good. If you see something like my experience / don't like, send 'em back.
Interestingly enough, I have discovered that the Speedmaster Olds heads run the Ford small block Windsor rocker arms perfectly. Even the guys at Speedmaster didn't believe me, so I sent them this dynamic valve train test video so that they could see it with their own eyes: Ford 302 Stainless Rockers on Speedmaster Olds Heads
Below are the part numbers for use on the 7/16 rocker studs:
1.6 ratio rockers in stainless steel that I have beat the monkey snot out of without any failures on high spring rates and RPM's: PCE261.1075.01
The super strong 8650 chromoly 1.7 ratio rockers are PCE261.1199
Both of these above ultra strong rockers can be fit under stock height valve covers if you use the short poly locks: PCE255.1005
I run the rockers above with these heavier springs: PCE436.1003 These are 145# on the seat, 420lbs./in @ .600 lift which are also found to be a direct swap out replacement for the standard springs supplied in the Speedmaster Olds heads. Re-use the factory hardened steel spring seats provided with the cylinder heads, discard the ones provided with these heavier springs (or prepare to machine the spring pockets larger OR machine the spring seats smaller in diameter). ** DO NOT USE THESE HEAVY SPRINGS ON A FLAT TAPPET CAM - THEY WILL WIPE THE LOBES OUT UNLESS THE CAM IS SPECIALLY TREATED TO TAKE THE HEAVY SPRING PRESSURES - ROLLER LIFTERS ONLY**
Here are the 7/16 rocker studs that I use: PCE260.1007
Note that I have had to shorten the ends that screw into the heads to .625" (from the bottom of the six point hex) = finished stud length end to end of 2.400" due to the not being able to break loose the helicoil tangs down inside of the threaded stud holes (oddly enough). This can be done with a drill that has a 1/2" chuck to spin the studs, using a high speed cutoff wheel on an air motor to remove about one thread of length. Use calipers to double check the length of the threads (that engage into the cylinder head), sneaking up onto .625" +/- (of threaded length from the bottom of the six point hex, which will yield an overall finished stud length of 2.4"). Again using the drill motor to spin the stud, bevel the threaded ends you have shortened on a fine bench grinder stone or with a "brown cookie" on an air motor, then use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to polish the shortened ends. Of course a machine shop can also do this for you too, but what fun is that, right?
The standard issue 3/8 pushrod guide plates are PCE251.1001
I have also recently discovered that the Pontiac 5/16 pushrod guide plates work on the Speedmaster Olds heads: PCE251.1026
For what it's worth, I have been finding that 9.200" length pushrods have been the standard on builds using the Howards Rollers with a lifter seat height of 2.685" (which is rather standard for retrofit roller lifters). Don't trust that info as the golden number though. I ALWAYS use machinists blue on the valve tips to check the witness marks left by the roller tips of the rockers to make sure they are running dead center.
a
Hopefully this helps!
The experience I had was that the edge of the roller was right at the edge of the tip of the valve stem. The tip of the valve stem was technically fully covered by the roller wheel, so it would have ran, but I fussed around with setup for a bit to see if rotating through the various other rockers might help which it did not. I then reached for the usual studs, guide plates, and stainless rockers to see how they interfaced, finding that jockeying around the guide plate placed the roller wheels much more squarely over the tip of the valves. I tried another cylinder on the opposite side of the engine to see if a different head / location may act better which it did not, so I returned the PCE261.1116 rockers and "just" ran with the usual PCE261.1075.01 and called it done.
Not being able to "aim" the rockers on the PCE261.1116 shaft mount arrangement removed my ability to tune this interface of the rocker arm roller wheel targeting in relation to the tip of the valve. I had considered ordering in a set of the PCE252.1001 lash caps, which would have widened the overall contact area of the tip of the roller wheel, but it still would have been off center just enough to choose to back out of using these rockers. I noticed that the picture CanadianOlds posted with the blue rocker arms has lash caps (across the tops of the two valves that have the test springs) should you be curious as to a visual of what the lash caps look like installed. You will see the rest of the valves in that image look normal, but the two valves where the blue rockers are in place have the much wider black lash caps installed onto the tops of the valves, providing a big fat wide interface for the tips of the roller rockers.
You should be fine. If I had left the interface the way it was, it's not like it would have particularly caused any direct trouble, as it was technically covering the entire tip of the valve. My thoughts were that long term abuse against heavy spring pressure may have eventually haunted me with an ever so slight side loading of the rocker wheel. Whenever I get that nagging feeling that something may come around to bite me later, I back out of it in the name of longevity. I build all of my engines to be able to withstand a cross country trip at any point, emphasis on endurance over horsepower. It takes almost 6 gallons to fill my cooling system, 11 quarts to fill my oiling system, 16 quarts to fill my transmission, 2 quarts to fill my power steering system, and 4 quarts to fill my rear axle on my 442 if that gives you an idea of how much emphasis I place on endurance.
Summary? It's mostly me, not necessarily the parts. I'm just very particular about my builds, obsessing over details that wouldn't bother most. I say order the shaft rockers in, carefully mock them up on your heads (don't mar anything up as you might be returning these), and if your fine, well, your good. If you see something like my experience / don't like, send 'em back.
Paul...
in the case with the lash caps..the owner supplied the p. rods..which were way to short. Lash caps I had in stock fixed that up. Those Ford rockers are advertised at 1.6
rolling it over with the check springs and checking the sweep across the cap/stem was perfect.
as you can see…with the .350” lobe it gave it her all 😎.
Thanks Paul. I'm going to try the shafts PCE261.1116 with lash caps. Like you said, probably be fine. Guess I will find out. Just ordered a set from Jegs and only $200 US shipping to my place in Buffalo. can always swap out if I don 't like them..
Good evening, gentlemen, I’m not sure what resolution you came up with, as I am still reading through the threads. But I have experience with the Speedmaster roller rockers, and I was very unhappy with them. I will attach pictures, but the pockets and shaft adjustment bolts blew apart and sent metal pieces throughout my engine and I had to use a magnet and any other tools I could find to collect all of the pieces that were Distributed through my engine. I do not recommend these roller rockers at all. That is just my two cents.
Last edited by 330Rocket; August 28th, 2023 at 09:37 PM.
Reason: Wrong spelling
Interestingly enough, I have discovered that the Speedmaster Olds heads run the Ford small block Windsor rocker arms perfectly. Even the guys at Speedmaster didn't believe me, so I sent them this dynamic valve train test video so that they could see it with their own eyes: Ford 302 Stainless Rockers on Speedmaster Olds Heads
Below are the part numbers for use on the 7/16 rocker studs:
1.6 ratio rockers in stainless steel that I have beat the monkey snot out of without any failures on high spring rates and RPM's: PCE261.1075.01
The super strong 8650 chromoly 1.7 ratio rockers are PCE261.1199
Both of these above ultra strong rockers can be fit under stock height valve covers if you use the short poly locks: PCE255.1005
I run the rockers above with these heavier springs: PCE436.1003 These are 145# on the seat, 420lbs./in @ .600 lift which are also found to be a direct swap out replacement for the standard springs supplied in the Speedmaster Olds heads. Re-use the factory hardened steel spring seats provided with the cylinder heads, discard the ones provided with these heavier springs (or prepare to machine the spring pockets larger OR machine the spring seats smaller in diameter). ** DO NOT USE THESE HEAVY SPRINGS ON A FLAT TAPPET CAM - THEY WILL WIPE THE LOBES OUT UNLESS THE CAM IS SPECIALLY TREATED TO TAKE THE HEAVY SPRING PRESSURES - ROLLER LIFTERS ONLY**
Here are the 7/16 rocker studs that I use: PCE260.1007
Note that I have had to shorten the ends that screw into the heads to .625" (from the bottom of the six point hex) = finished stud length end to end of 2.400" due to the not being able to break loose the helicoil tangs down inside of the threaded stud holes (oddly enough). This can be done with a drill that has a 1/2" chuck to spin the studs, using a high speed cutoff wheel on an air motor to remove about one thread of length. Use calipers to double check the length of the threads (that engage into the cylinder head), sneaking up onto .625" +/- (of threaded length from the bottom of the six point hex, which will yield an overall finished stud length of 2.4"). Again using the drill motor to spin the stud, bevel the threaded ends you have shortened on a fine bench grinder stone or with a "brown cookie" on an air motor, then use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to polish the shortened ends. Of course a machine shop can also do this for you too, but what fun is that, right?
The standard issue 3/8 pushrod guide plates are PCE251.1001
I have also recently discovered that the Pontiac 5/16 pushrod guide plates work on the Speedmaster Olds heads: PCE251.1026
For what it's worth, I have been finding that 9.200" length pushrods have been the standard on builds using the Howards Rollers with a lifter seat height of 2.685" (which is rather standard for retrofit roller lifters). Don't trust that info as the golden number though. I ALWAYS use machinists blue on the valve tips to check the witness marks left by the roller tips of the rockers to make sure they are running dead center.
Hopefully this helps!
Once again, your friendly Ukranian mad scientist,
Paul...
Great information on the Speedmaster parts!
I'm curious if you used the supplied Polylocks with your rocker arms to keep the stock Valve Covers?
I'm trying to run the PCE261.1188 (the chromoly rocker arms) and the supplied polylocks have a taper in them (I posted a pic of below) and are too tall to use with stock height valve covers, do your stainless rockers run the same tapered poly locks or more common straight shank? The common short poly locks ride on top of the trunnion vs seating down in the machined recess of the trunnion.
I'm trying to run the PCE261.1188 (the chromoly rocker arms) and the supplied polylocks have a taper in them (I posted a pic of below) and are too tall to use with stock height valve covers, do your stainless rockers run the same tapered poly locks or more common straight shank? The common short poly locks ride on top of the trunnion vs seating down in the machined recess of the trunnion.
You will need to measure your polylocks and then compare to what's available. I found the following:
The polylocks shipped with my Harland Sharp rocker kit are 1.12" in length.
The Crower Cams 86050S polylocks are .871" (listed a 7/8") and interfere with the top of the HS rocker arm similar to what you saw with your rockers.
The Comp Cams 4600 polylocks are 1.00" in height and allowed me to get under the valve cover. with a thicker valve cover gasket.
All the manufacturers list the dimensions of the polylocks on their website.
Be careful though what worked for me though might not work for you as your rockers are different.
No, I had plenty of oil flow. For some reason they were very noisy and I could never get them to run right. I attached a video of them on my engine.
sounds like the lash was excessive. That’ll break the adjuster cup before anything else. If it wasn’t then maybe they were floating which will also break the cup.
running to short of a pushrod can also break the cup if there is anything more than the max lash..because the cup is way out of its socket depth which gets into bad angularity.
that type of adjuster/rocker should only be about one full turn out from fully back seated
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; November 1st, 2023 at 03:20 PM.
I'm curious if you used the supplied Polylocks with your rocker arms to keep the stock Valve Covers?
I'm trying to run the PCE261.1188 (the chromoly rocker arms) and the supplied polylocks have a taper in them (I posted a pic of below) and are too tall to use with stock height valve covers, do your stainless rockers run the same tapered poly locks or more common straight shank? The common short poly locks ride on top of the trunnion vs seating down in the machined recess of the trunnion.
there are short poly lock nut’s available. Just have to make sure the hex portion clears your rocker during the full range of lift , open to close.
I’ll post pics of a short one compared to a standard style..the shorts also have a 1/2 height top hex to reduce its height
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; November 1st, 2023 at 03:22 PM.
there are short poly lock nut’s available. Just have to make sure the hex portion clears your rocker during the full range of lift , open to close.
I’ll post pics of a short one compared to a standard style..the shorts also have a 1/2 height top hex to reduce its height
I have the short ones but they don't have a taper to seat down into the trunnion on these rockers. Its finding short ones with that taper that I'm coming up empty on finding.
Originally Posted by fleming442
Rocket Racing has valve cover spacers, too.
Oh yeah I'm aware but they sure do charge $$$ for those! If I can't find the short tapered polylocks I'll probably go with some spacers or the cheapy chrome tall Valve covers.
July 7th, 2023, 01:53 AM
Interestingly...
I did try these...
