I picked up a rear that included no-hop bars I do not plan on racing
According to the post below It appears I should remove them for street use. Thoughts?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...prings-107345/

 

They aren't just for race use but I prefer lower control arm relocation brackets instead. Both move the intersect point farther back in the car but the relocation brackets also move it up as well. The no-hops tend to hit the trunk floor when you hit bumps and have passengers in the back seat.

 

Ive been using No-hops for over 30 years, and have never had them hit anywhere

 

Those are extremely tall no-hop bars. If you aren't racing, get rid of them. In addition to what Chadman said above, they make the instant center virtual swing arm length very short, which will also cause the rear tires to lock up easier under hard braking.

I have the TA Performance ones on mine (half the height of those) and the car rides noticeably rougher, it also plants the tires quite a bit harder. I haven't had any issues street driving it.

 

Use adjustable controll arms, adjust pinion angle so it does not unload tires under force.
Change shocks and tune suspension. No- bars not needed.

 

Please explain this. I'm smack dab in the middle of this game right now on my 67.
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/real...ok-t17109.html

I have UMI control arms (adj upper), cheap CE 3way single adjustable shocks, and new springs that lowered the rear 2". I've been trying Bickel's tricks, too. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/04/23/figure-four-a-guide-to-tuning-your-four-link-suspension-system/
I picked up some tall lower ball joints to get the front down and level it out more. Basically, I was stinkbug, now Carolina squat,, heading for lowered....

 

Try and stiffen up shocks.
Read about and check your pinion angle.

 

I have. I asked about the pinion angle because I've been told by several racers that it isn't as important on the triangulated 4 link as it is on leaf springs.

 

Like others have said those bars look taller. The No Hop bars we had were not as tall and would hit the trunk floor pan, if there was not enough air in the air bags to stiffen the rear springs.
How high the car sits in the back, the spring rate of the rear spring, shock settings and brand of No Hop bars will determine if you have contact. I would go with a more modern approach.
Anti roll bars are very popular as are adjustable control arms. The pinion angle always matters.

 

Pinion angle has nothing to do with traction. If your driveshaft is planting your rear suspension you will have some problems... granted, the angles are important for vibration and durability but not for hooking the car.

 

That's why I axed fo a slpanation..... 🤪

 

I have found that they work really good if you have some good olds torque and sticky tires. I have never had a problem with them adversely but i dont drive as much here with short summer window.
I will gladly buy them if you are selling.

 

There is a 90% chance I will be removing them. What do you think is a fair price? They are QA1 I'll try to get a model number.
I think they were on the car for about 50 miles from 1 shop to another.

 

Seems like you can find them for $150 plus shipping around.
My email is Olds.nw@gmail.com and i have Paypal

 

Why pinion angle always matters.

https://www.dragzine.com/tech-storie...mproving-hook/

 

This gentleman has some good info well said.

 

$150 is fair
PM your address and I will get you a shipping quote. Gonna see if I can get a flat rate box.
I removed them today, you may want to replace one of the Allen head bolts it wasn't as straight as the other.

 

tkcutlass what rear disc set up is that ?
Thanks
Glen

 

The no hop bars load up the center section . I bent 2 good housings that way. I ran well into the low 12's with no traction aids. Just good bushings , springs etc etc. Currently I run the South side machine style lift bars which are just solid control arms and lower the rear mount point to change the instant center. Essentially the same effect as the no hop bar but imo less agressive. Good luck.

 

I would suggest to anyone thinking of installing no hop bars, and solid bushings (as well as bolt on ladder bars for that matter) to aid in trying to make their cars suspension work better........ I'd say DON'T! Most, if not all the issues that you might be having can be overcome by replacing the control arm bushings (with new OE style bushings), and using good tunable shocks (front and rear).

These bolt on traction aids have no place on a street driven vehicle, I wouldn't even use them on a race only vehicle. They "work" by basically by binding up your rear suspension, which not only makes the ride rough, it will destroy your control arms/control arm mounting points on the frame. Remove your shocks, and raise and lower the rear suspension with either of these traction aids and see what is happening........you won't like it.

It is a very important part of the original design that the rear control arms have rubber bushings that allow for the bushing to take the required flex as the suspension moves thru it travel, if they can't flex........... the control arms and there mounting points are stressed laterally.

 

The south side machine bars ride smooth. The no hop bars don't ride rough but considering the upper control arms want to naturally twist it's not wise and will bind in the area imo . I replaced the upper bushings with heim end joints. I run 11.60's putting down a 1.56 60 ft. And the ride quality is still good.

 

Good question I haven't found any identifying numbers. I haven't heard back from the guy I bought the rear from. The best I can tell it could be "the right stuff" white label from jeggs or similar.
I am concerned it may be tricky to get them set up/integrated correctly without docs.