You need a video of your car leaving the line.
That will tell you a lot.

 

Those lowering springs are not helping. You would better of with stock worn out springs.

 

I was thinking the same...as I've never heard anyone drag racing with those.
Your run of the mill Moroso Trick springs are found in thousands of car...they work.

 

Thanks for the reply.
How is the front suspension set up?
The class racers are very focused on Stiction reduction in there suspension
The class cars front suspension moves very freely through its range of travel.
Are you running a drag spring up front?
Looking forward to seeing your car progressing as you get if sorted

 

yep…but it’s still under geared in first , overall.

9.3 in a heavy car is the problem

 

dp

let’s crowd fund an M22Z 2.98 first gear for fleming

After all you went through with the self learning thing..it’s the least we can do for you 😁

 

I think being a street car makes it a little harder to maximize the set up , because you can't go for a typical drag car gearing. Personally I would maximize the suspension first. The rear anti-roll bar is it proven to work in a drag race application? https://www.globalwest.net/ is one company that makes Del-A Lum front control arm bushings that will help free up the suspension. If you do a search on Class racer you will find lots of information on how to improve 60' foot times.
A lot of racers have coil spring made for their set up. The more data you can provide to the vendor the closer to the ideal spring rate you will receive.
I have seen cars run very stiff springs in the back and 60 foot well, I have also seen cars compress the rear spring and 60 foot well.
I have yet to see a car transfer the weight poorly that could 60 foot.

 

I put the lowering springs in to get more shock travel, not so much for spring rate. There are clearly several schools of thought on rear suspension setup- stiff and drive the tire down, soft and squat, etc... it's different for slicks vs radials, too.

 

A stiff set up on a gm triangulated rear suspension will not help plant the tire and keep it there. In this case you need a spring that will store energy by being able to compress. Squat / anti-squat are caused by suspension geometry. The springs and shocks control / enhance this action. At your weight I would start at 150# rate.

 

This picture is the car staged. Notice the rear tire compared to the body and how the car sits.

In this photo you can see the rear planting the tire. The hight of the car has not changed.

In this photo notice the rear tire is still planted and there is still separation between the tire and body.

 

Great pictures Duh.

If you enlarge this video you can see my suspension actually push the tire into the ground, then slightly raise the cars rear end all before ever really moving.
I don't get any squat...it a touch of separation and then transfer.

This is with Moroso springs and Strange DA shocks.

 

I'll have to look at the video when I get home. From what you described your car sounds like it is working correctly. The pictures above actually show an incorrect set up. I used them because it's actually planting (hitting) the tire too hard so its easier to see. That's what it looks like when you have a foot brake set up and decide to play with the trans brake.

 

I nailed the shock setting and clutch for 1 run, #3, and got down to a 1.86. So, now I know it can be done. I have a launch control being built; that should help things be more consistent. Still gaining- 7.46@97 doing some 1/8th mile with good prep.

 

Sneaking up on it. Moved the control arms up to the automatic holes to get the IC out, and played with shock settings. Track prep wasn't great, and I don't know if I had the tires hot enough. Launch control goes in this week. Knocked 02 off; new PB ET 11.68
Dude in a turbo Civic running 15s hit a deer at the big end, so I called it a night while they were cleaning up.

 

Gorgeous car Flemming!
I don’t know much about launching a stickkk what’s your launch RPM?

over all the cars suspension looks very hard.
the fronts not rising and the rear doesn’t seem to move much.
Havenyou tried it without the airbag?

 

.....My two cents worth.
Peter is about right. No front end lift. Have you tried washers loosen up the front stabilizer bar ? You can pull them out for normal driving.
Do you have air bags ?
You need to get the RPM's high enough to keep from bogging on the line.
Or, the "bog" on the line could be a carb problem. I know you have been playing with carburetion.
That "bog" is killing your time.

What is a launch control ? Are you changing drivers ?

 

The bog is gearing. I can change it for $800.
The spinning is crappy tires and too much wheel speed (see #1).
The launch control goes on the clutch hydraulic line to make the release more consistent than my retarded left leg.
I am accepting all donations via PayPal, flemingfleming442@gmail.com
I posted the videos mainly for sounds. If you didn't like them, eat a bag of djcks. 🤪

 

The front is fairly loose. The valves were out of the bags. I'm pretty sure the tires just suck, and the rear springs are too stiff. I need to find a pair of Jeep TJ springs to try.

 

1. What RPM's are you dumping the clutch ?
2. When the tires hook up, you can hear the engine bog.
3. Can you hear the engine bog when you are in the car ?
4. I thought the video's were fine, and I listened as I watched. I heard the engine bog and stumble when the tires hooked up.

 

The videos show the bulk of the problems. Watch it in slow motion look at the rear of the car, the rear tire to fender. The rear of the car moved down, the tires move up into the well. This is not from weight transfer. It's from the rear pushing up. Your IC is most likely under your ASL or too far forward. You need to work on that before anything else. FYI if your planning on putting a lower first gear in to remove the "bog" you will only make your traction issues worse.

 

Congrats on the new PB ! So I run bias plys and radials. The Hoosiers 60ft. Better with more front end travel . The radials I take about 1.5 inches of travel off the front and have 5 inches of extension. I run tall moog springs in the front ( 6 cyl tempest) tubular control arms snug and double nutted for fast movement , afco 80/20 circle track shocks and tall ball joints on the upper control arms.

In the rear I run adjustable uppers set to -3 SSM lift bars in the lower region , stock 69 442 rear springs , and a stock style sway bar and single adjustable QA1 shocks on the softest setting. I have not made any passes on the radials since the 4.30 but the track had brand new concrete and I was the 4th car to make a pass after 2 passes I went back to the bias plys. The videos are with the 3.90 gears but I think if the track prep is on point I should not have an issue. Just haven't been to the track for testing been running points and that's been the focus.

This is on the bias ply


This is on the radial.