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Went to a track rental today. Still can't 60 for shjt, but laid down the best numbers to date- 11.70@122. 93 pump gas, and drove an hour to and back with no breakage. I'm still lost on shock setup, and a long time racer friend watched a couple runs and said I need weight in the rear. I can see that. MPH should tickle 10s! I'm happy.
Congrats on the the PB. Nice mph. Keep working on the launch albeit tougher on a stick car and you'll get there. Stick cars are so much more fun to drive.
Went to a track rental today. Still can't 60 for shjt, but laid down the best numbers to date- 11.70@122. 93 pump gas, and drove an hour to and back with no breakage. I'm still lost on shock setup, and a long time racer friend watched a couple runs and said I need weight in the rear. I can see that. MPH should tickle 10s! I'm happy.
As in Normally Aspirated? Yes. 468
The Wallace calculator says 532rwhp, moving 3800 to 122. Just for chips and pickles, if you throw 10% on for drivetrain loss, that's 585 flywheel, but is a manual trans and locker killing 10%? The 9" probably eats some?
My friend that shoes a super stocker was there, and said i need weight in the rear. That, and I was going the wrong way on the shocks. I don't know where my IC is, so i don't know whether to adjust for squat or anti-squat. Apparently, cranking up the compression alone doesn't work, which I think is good for anti-squat, no?
As in Normally Aspirated? Yes. 468
The Wallace calculator says 532rwhp, moving 3800 to 122. Just for chips and pickles, if you throw 10% on for drivetrain loss, that's 585 flywheel, but is a manual trans and locker killing 10%? The 9" probably eats some?
My friend that shoes a super stocker was there, and said i need weight in the rear. That, and I was going the wrong way on the shocks. I don't know where my IC is, so i don't know whether to adjust for squat or anti-squat. Apparently, cranking up the compression alone doesn't work, which I think is good for anti-squat, no?
532 crankshaft HP. Thats a strong Olds 455, nice work. Definitely one of the best on here I've seen.
would be nice to see a video from the back and side on how it leaves . The tires should drive themselves into the track and separate from the body.
this slip was from the weekend. 455 in the same weight as yours with a 4:10 and T/400. Not making near the power you are but manages low 11’s similar MPH
would be nice to see a video from the back and side on how it leaves . The tires should drive themselves into the track and separate from the body.
this slip was from the weekend. 455 in the same weight as yours with a 4:10 and T/400. Not making near the power you are but manages low 11’s similar MPH
You better get to work making that thing work.........
Went to a track rental today. Still can't 60 for shjt, but laid down the best numbers to date- 11.70@122. 93 pump gas, and drove an hour to and back with no breakage. I'm still lost on shock setup, and a long time racer friend watched a couple runs and said I need weight in the rear. I can see that. MPH should tickle 10s! I'm happy.
whats your first gear ratio, rear gear and tire dia?
whats your first gear ratio, rear gear and tire dia?
2.52 1st, 3.70 rear, no roll cage, gotta stay above 11.50 depending on the track. Tires are 275/60-15 Nitto 55tr on 10" rim- 15-16psi
60' is 1.89-2.0; either spins or bogs, but always sucks.
I have Viking DA shocks..
The Trimbles are life long Olds guys, and Frank is a machinist and engine builder. TR Performance on FB.
It seems like all the hardcore Olds guys tend to stay under the radar.
You can do it Fleming! You’ve just got to get that car to work for you.
The comments here are right…you want that rear to push down and get a little separation in the body.
After that you just need some transfer in the front.
Canadian…this is a street driven car as well. Probably a few thousand miles a year. It’s pump gas and relatively low maintenance.
I had a Gear Vendor in it until last year. I used to drive it to the track, but at 95 miles I don’t chance it any more.
3890lbs, 3.90, 28” drag radials, with a 4000 stall converter.
it’s a pretty tight converter so street driving is easy on temps.
You can do it Fleming! You’ve just got to get that car to work for you.
The comments here are right…you want that rear to push down and get a little separation in the body.
After that you just need some transfer in the front.
Canadian…this is a street driven car as well. Probably a few thousand miles a year. It’s pump gas and relatively low maintenance.
I had a Gear Vendor in it until last year. I used to drive it to the track, but at 95 miles I don’t chance it any more.
3890lbs, 3.90, 28” drag radials, with a 4000 stall converter.
it’s a pretty tight converter so street driving is easy on temps.
A 1.49 60 on a 10.69 car isn't something I'd be happy with or tolerate especially in Florida. How much is lost with the gear vendor?
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Jun 12, 2022 at 07:58 PM.
The Trimbles are life long Olds guys, and Frank is a machinist and engine builder. TR Performance on FB.
It seems like all the hardcore Olds guys tend to stay under the radar.
Its great to see you get with the right people! Now you need to talk to them about the rest of the car.
2.52 1st, 3.70 rear, no roll cage, gotta stay above 11.50 depending on the track. Tires are 275/60-15 Nitto 55tr on 10" rim- 15-16psi
60' is 1.89-2.0; either spins or bogs, but always sucks.
I have Viking DA shocks..
The best driver in the world will have a tough time getting that set up to 60.
It doesn’t have enough overall first ratio to launch that weight, with good traction while side stepping it, without pulling the motor down… even with the heaviest flywheel you can find.
I don’t know what rpm your leaving at but even at only 3k the wheel speed will be over 26 mph fully engaged .. so something has to give,, the motor will get pulled down, or it will lift the front wheels ten feet in the air with traction,,and it’s not doing that.
As it is now, you’ll need to be feathering the clutch while easing into full throttle to fool the car into thinking it’s got a lot more overall first in it for a good launch… that’s really difficult to do consistently and make it work
The thing is that it's a pump gas street car. And, I'm a hard head about one of the 4s in 442 standing for 4 speed. No OD dictates the rear for highway cruising, hence the 3.70. I got one of the steepest 1sts available in a Muncie, again, all about compromise.
If I cut the floor and put a TKX in, I could drop the rear gear and get a steeper first. It's not a 13sec bracket car that gets trailered (never got that one). It's pretty close to perfect as far as I'm concerned. I just need to figure the rear suspension out. Yes, I want a wheelie. The runs out the back door were just for fun. I'd like to be able to short shift my way to 12.0s for index classes, eventually.
As far as the "right people", yes, Frank builds a nasty Olds. It ain't cheap, but it makes power. I think he's pissed because i changed the intake gaskets and yanked the fitech 💩 he recommended off. He originally wanted to put a Dominator on it. I don't have the money his customers do, and they leave their cars there for years on end (Hi, Joe!). I'm learning as i go. They're all about cruises and yawn chairs- not my scene; I'd rather go to the track.
I'm going to see about getting it scaled, so I know more about how the rear is setup. I will probably end up moving the battery to the trunk, at a minimum.
Worst case scenario: I give up on the 60, accept 2.0s, and leave soft like a traffic light. It will be easier on the clutch.
drilled the post time- 4:42
Last edited by fleming442; Jun 13, 2022 at 02:54 AM.
It sounds like lots of fun and a good cruiser as is. That 2.0 60 ft is brutal and definitely the issue. I ran that with my slow **** in the 1/8 mile. My 88 had horrible suspension. It handled like a washing machine and acted like it was on ice on launch. I'm glad the new carb is a big improvement over that Fi No Tech. There is always something faster, as long as you are happy with the results.
The thing is that it's a pump gas street car. And, I'm a hard head about one of the 4s in 442 standing for 4 speed. No OD dictates the rear for highway cruising, hence the 3.70. I got one of the steepest 1sts available in a Muncie, again, all about compromise.
If I cut the floor and put a TKX in, I could drop the rear gear and get a steeper first. It's not a 13sec bracket car that gets trailered (never got that one). It's pretty close to perfect as far as I'm concerned. I just need to figure the rear suspension out. Yes, I want a wheelie. The runs out the back door were just for fun. I'd like to be able to short shift my way to 12.0s for index classes, eventually.
As far as the "right people", yes, Frank builds a nasty Olds. It ain't cheap, but it makes power. I think he's pissed because i changed the intake gaskets and yanked the fitech 💩 he recommended off. He originally wanted to put a Dominator on it. I don't have the money his customers do, and they leave their cars there for years on end (Hi, Joe!). I'm learning as i go. They're all about cruises and yawn chairs- not my scene; I'd rather go to the track.
I'm going to see about getting it scaled, so I know more about how the rear is setup. I will probably end up moving the battery to the trunk, at a minimum.
Worst case scenario: I give up on the 60, accept 2.0s, and leave soft like a traffic light. It will be easier on the clutch.
drilled the post time- 4:42
Auto gears M22Z 2.98 first gear set work help a bunch …. It’s easy to spend your money 😁
Just some info regarding the tkx, we did one in a 65 442’ original 4peed car and had to do zero cutting of the floor, just a hammer to massage the rear of the floor pan behind the shifter. 100% would recommend to anyone.
Just some info regarding the tkx, we did one in a 65 442’ original 4peed car and had to do zero cutting of the floor, just a hammer to massage the rear of the floor pan behind the shifter. 100% would recommend to anyone.
It don't leave, and since you've popped up, what about that 650 HP 403, what have you got that to run with your OD trans?
right because you know everything, you’re just the best. Btw, it’s a 680 hp 403 and as I told you before, no one this website will know what it runs. It doesn’t matter what it runs
How is your car set up currently
Bushings?
Traction devices?
shocks?
How free does your front and rear suspension move?
The CE shocks have been replaced by Viking DAs. UMI uppers, Roto-joints, and braces, GW(?) Lowers, all rod ends or solid bushings, Eibah progressive lowering springs (recently changed), 2000 Blazer bar
-2⁰ pinion, and had 5lbs air in the bags.
Last edited by fleming442; Jun 14, 2022 at 08:42 AM.
