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I'm curious what solutions people have found to install aftermarket radiators when they don't fit the old saddles. I've got a BeCool 4 row radiator going into a '70 Cutlass that was originally a 350 powered car. The mounting saddles in the support and top plate are obviously too small to fit.
I'm sure the "best" option is to order the repro 4 core saddles and insulators and keep my fingers crossed that they fit the radiator but for now I'm not following this route.
I've got some generic insulators and bent some flat bar into cradles for it, but my primary concern is that there isn't enough cradling to keep the radiator in it's spot through bumps. The top plate alone doesn't provide enough stiffness to prevent flexing and jumping. I'm planning on adding brackets in the centre, top and bottom, which would bolt to the core support and top plate and fasten to the centre bolt holding the fan assembly in place.
I'm assuming a top plate of some sort is essential to keep the air flowing through the radiator...so I'd love to see some photos of how others have addressed this need.
I put a Cool Case aluminum radiator in my 75 Hurst Olds W30 last year. It was a matter of dropping it in but I had the bigger radiator. The only thing I had to change was to bend the top cooling line upward a little bit. I would try the mounts for the 4-core radiator first. Have you tried giving BeCool a call? The aluminum radiator dropped my temp about 25°.
I used a set of these from Jegs for my Vista radiator: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5207...nsbNcSZ8&gQT=1
I cut off the side with the hole and made steel straps to mount the top 2. The bottom 2 are bolted to the core support. I was looking for something different than the factory top plate.
Built new lower saddles out of sheetmetal and glued rubber inside. Built a new upper cover to control air flow out of aluminum. The Jegs lower saddles look good in an earlier post....
That seems odd - I installed one in my '72 350 and it was a drop in replacement - my 350 was an original 2bbl car and still retains its top plate.
this is the one I just recently installed
Be Cool Radiators OE Series Aluminum Radiator 1968-72 Skylark/Chevelle/Cutlass/LeMans
Part Number: 134-17008
OEM shroud and cooling lines bolted right back up and rad seems completely secure. I think I recall the only mod I previously did was to swap out the 2-core rubber isolators for 4-core pieces.
I think I recall the only mod I previously did was to swap out the 2-core rubber isolators for 4-core pieces.
That's our difference...I didn't have the 4 core saddles or isolators here so thought I'd fab something up instead...trying to save a couple bucks with the Canadian $$ tanking lately. One of the issues I found was the lower saddle interfered with the drain petcock.
Built new lower saddles out of sheetmetal and glued rubber inside. Built a new upper cover to control air flow out of aluminum. The Jegs lower saddles look good in an earlier post....
That looks good! I'm leaning towards a new top plate as well, and moving the assembly forward a bit for more engine clearance. Did you use any sort of insulator or padding on that top plate? Or how did you secure it to the rad?
That looks good! I'm leaning towards a new top plate as well, and moving the assembly forward a bit for more engine clearance. Did you use any sort of insulator or padding on that top plate? Or how did you secure it to the rad?
On the engine side I secured it to the top of the radiator using their existing brace that sat on top of the core. You can see the 1" 90 degree lip in the picture. Three #10 screws go though the plate to the brace. It is very sturdy. I have thin rubber strips above the radiator and the core support / headlight brace for protection and rattle elimination.
I wanted to make sure I got as much cooling air through it as possible which is why I spent the time making the top plate fit so well. Too many stressful moments when I was stationed in California watching the temp gauge creep up in traffic with the original core. Now it never exceeds 208 on 100 degree day in stop and go traffic. Runs 180 90% of the time otherwise. (180 t stat)
Mine is a Griffin Radiator.
I had 4 lower saddles made and a new top plate, by using Send Cut Send. The lower saddles are wider than normal and allow me to use two poly isolators each to spread out the weight. I used 1/4" thick rubber strips below the core support and saddles to get the height just right.
I'm curious what solutions people have found to install aftermarket radiators when they don't fit the old saddles. I've got a BeCool 4 row radiator going into a '70 Cutlass that was originally a 350 powered car. The mounting saddles in the support and top plate are obviously too small to fit.
I'm sure the "best" option is to order the repro 4 core saddles and insulators and keep my fingers crossed that they fit the radiator but for now I'm not following this route.
I've got some generic insulators and bent some flat bar into cradles for it, but my primary concern is that there isn't enough cradling to keep the radiator in it's spot through bumps. The top plate alone doesn't provide enough stiffness to prevent flexing and jumping. I'm planning on adding brackets in the centre, top and bottom, which would bolt to the core support and top plate and fasten to the centre bolt holding the fan assembly in place.
I'm assuming a top plate of some sort is essential to keep the air flowing through the radiator...so I'd love to see some photos of how others have addressed this need.
Wizard Cooling large aluminum radiator with built in fans and overflow tank. Upgraded saddles upper and lower. Factory radiator top plate. Clean and neat. Great cooling and performance.
Lots of great suggestions! Just to close the loop, I wound up getting a piece of stainless steel and had a friend put some bends into it for me. It slips between the plastic fan frame and the mounting bracket at the back. I'm still a bit leery about the lower brackets if the radiator shifts on a hard bump, but we'll see.
I had 4 lower saddles made and a new top plate, by using Send Cut Send. The lower saddles are wider than normal and allow me to use two poly isolators each to spread out the weight. I used 1/4" thick rubber strips below the core support and saddles to get the height just right.
“I'm still a bit leery about the lower brackets if the radiator shifts on a hard bump, but we'll see.“
your not still thinking of Dukes of Hazarding over the old abbandoned Black Bridge are ya ? 😬
Well, you never can tell around here. If that old suspension bridge was still down past Shawnigan all bets would be off! Yeeeeeeeeeeehhhhaaaawwww!!!!!!!
Hoping to fire the engine up tomorrow...we're getting close to driving!
Looks great. What did it cost? Can you share the cuts file?
Top plate was $112 shipped, 4 lower mounts (2 different sizes, 2 each) were $42 shipped. I don't see a way to download the file but I'll email them and ask.
Looks great. What did it cost? Can you share the cuts file?
No luck, found this on their site. I can provide you my order numbers and maybe they will just duplicate them for you. Keep in mind I measured this very carefully for my specific aluminum radiator.
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