So who makes the best High Performance Oil Pans now! Canton - Moroso - other. Pro and cons. Not looking for a custom pan. I know many have had problems with leaks.

Thank.

 

Like I said, I wasn't to impressed at how warped my Canton pan was. With the pan torqued to factory specs and the better Felpro coated gaskets with the Right Stuff on the block side, I see oil pushed past the gaskets just from filling the oil by dumping the oil in the valley. Also leakage at the drain and temp sensor plug. Otherwise the welds, pick up and baffles appear very well done.

 

I like my Canton.

 

Do an internet search for these 8 quart oil pans:

Put in HZ-9398-C for the chrome version
HZ-9398-Z for yellow zinc dichromate (which lends itself well for painting if desired)
HZ-9398-PBK for the black version.

These do have a sump that is 1" deeper than the Canton, Moroso, and Milodon, hanging down just under an inch below most frames depending upon year / model. I have a lower than stock '86 G body, and don't even think twice about over speed bumps are railroad tracks but am mindful of any heavier road junk out on the highways (I suppose everybody is essentially going to steer clear of road junk...). I do not sissy foot around with my builds, so I run these deeper pans to give me the ability to run them a quart low on purpose to keep excess oil away from the rotating mass as much as possible. Sure you can run the full 8 quart capacity (that's 8 quarts including a full size oil filter), but with that much oil available, I simply use the "ADD" mark as my full mark. I road race this car at times, so I'm really moving the oil around a LOT in the heavy twists and curves, heavy acceleration and deceleration - it helps that these pans have a good baffle in them, along with a secondary 1" perimeter baffle (which looks like where a stock sump was originally, then cut off to install the larger formed sump. I have not run into any clearance problems with starters, frames, oil filters. The bottom "box" is 9 1/2" x 9 1/2" on these pans.

If you choose to use any of these pans, make sure to also source the corresponding HZ-9399-C oil pump pick up tube. This is a bolt on large capacity pickup designed for use with the MELLING M22FHV High Volume which is 1/4" (or was it 5/16? hmmm, pretty sure it is a 1/4") longer than a stock oil pump.

The reason why I haven't specified a particular manufacturer is because simply entering in the part numbers provided with "Oldsmobile" added to the search with the part numbers will bring up a lot of sources for these pans. CFR, Cobratek, any number of Ebay listings. Looking this up under the Speedmaster branding is PCE300.1015.02 which is the yellowish zinc dichromate but this listing also includes the corresponding oil pump pickup tube and gasket. I have ordered in from various suppliers finding that these are all coming out of the same point of manufacture (same welds, markings, drain plugs), but not sure who that actually is yet. Do note that they are all clearanced to handle stroker builds.

I have run them all - Moroso, Canton, Milodon, and the above pans are my current choice these days. While most certainly not mandatory, I also like accompanying them with the Milodon windage trays: Milodon Windage Trays 32245 along with the Milodon Main Stud Kits 81219 (big block) and Milodon Main Stud Kits 81218 (for the small blocks). The Canton is nifty in that it provides an alternate oil dipstick installation if needed for whatever reason. If running the Canton and the alternate dipstick, I thread the factory pushrod hole installing a 1/4" depth Allen set screw just deep enough (1/4") to seal using Loctite 242. This allows you to remove the Allen set screw at any later date and still use the factory dipstick again without problems.

Case in point - the last build I did, I literally had a Moroso pan and a HZ-9398-C pan sitting here available. I reached for the HZ-9398-C pan if that tells you anything. All the big name brand oil pans are $400 + while these pans can be found as low as a $107 with some internet searches (does not include the oil pump pickup which has to be purchased separately).

Paul...

 

I bought a Moroso deep oil pan for the 455 I built years ago. The Moroso pan leaked out the oil plug drain when I added oil. Luckily the engine was still on the stand. I swapped it for a Milodon pan that's been great.

 

Clark455 I like them. But would need to mount some kind of skid plate. Speed bumps here are huge.

 

Speed bumps actually aren't that big of a deal, as you will find that your oil sump sits ever so slightly behind the centerline of the front tires. That means that when your tires hit the speed bumps and raise the car up and over them, you are also raising the oil sump at the same time (providing you are going over them slowly). Take a look underneath your car and you will see that the sump is roughly in parallel to the front tires, if not ever so slightly to the rear.

I don't fear even the largest speed bumps so long as I hit them square / straight on. If I had to for some reason go over one at a 45 degree angle in relation to the car, THAT could cause some concern depending on just how obnoxious that speed bump may be. The first time I had run this deeper pan, I DID custom weld up an angled skid plate that I then bolted to the bottom of the frame. Years after doing that, I found nothing ever touched the skid ramp I made, so I haven't bothered since on various other builds...

Paul

 

This is about as good as you will get without going custom:

Olds 350-455, 8" Deep, Street / Strip 5 qt, Rear Sump Oil Pan 1080 (stefs.com)

 

Isn't Bill building your engine? What does he want to use?

 

Here are three decent pics to go by. The lighting isn't the best but it gives you a general idea of what the clearances are:





The sump does have somewhat of a rearward angled designed to it. The bottom rearmost point to the pan is actually right on the same plane / depth as the finned standard depth cast aluminum 4L85E trans pan, finding that was about the same with a Turbo 400 with a cast aluminum standard depth finned pan on another previous build.

Paul

 

He said Canton - Moroso. he did not care. I was hoping a pan that did not give me any trouble. Getting too old to get under the car.
As long as its fits my G body.

CFR Performance are a great price. And I do need to stop the bleeding. Larger rims and wheels, Rear end, frame work, CVF Serpentine System., exhaust cutouts, remote oil filter - cooler, etc..
CFR Performance are Sold out. But some on Amazon for more money. It looks likes it has more room for headers.

Joking with Bill on using the deep DX oil pan from front wheel drive I have. It would give me some more room for the Batten headers. Still may when I have the engine. Just add windage tray. Clean, fix any dents and paint. And its OEM

 

Go to Ebay and you will find them from $107 - $112 with free / included shipping

Enter this into the Ebay search bar: HZ-9398 oil pan

The chrome one is showing at $107.80 or best offer, and the black one is showing $112.45 or best offer. You will see MotorEmpire on the image at the top, but lo and behold you also see CFR Performance in the lower part of the image (and also listed in the details section lower below as the brand), so maybe it IS CFR producing these? Free shipping - same parts (same part numbers, just different outlets distributing them). Some are actually distributing below cost in efforts to "get their numbers / volumes up" to get into the next better pricing tier - that's how it works. Yes, Ebay will have to hit you with sales tax, but on just over a hundred bucks, tax won't be too bad. WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more economical than any other performance pan + the extra quart of capacity the others do not have...

The installed pics I provided are in my 1986 G-body, so certified clearance from me on that aspect.

Paul

 

Here is a zinc plated Moroso shown next to the HZ-9398-C chrome:






I always fill them with mineral spirits using a quart by quart exacting fill to see where the real time oil level is going to be, which also double checks them for leaks. Never a problem out of 10, maybe 12 of these lower costs pans despite what conventional wisdoms would have you think. Never any problems with the end seals or gaskets installed either.

 

Clark455 You can not beat the price. Will run be my builder. Have to see how the Batten headers fit. Headers in car now there is like little room.


DSCF0698

DSCF0691

 

Bill has a saying- "cheap parts do in fact work for a little while"

The best part of all those pans is when the tack welds on the baffle break and it ends up in the bottom of the pan.

 

Canton all the way. I’ve used dozens of them, 0 issues. And you can get them powder coated right from them now too. First class quality.

 

Another nice thing about the Canton is the pan mounted dipstick, threads in. I might run both dipsticks to be ridiculous😁. With your pan sealing method, if you get one a little off like mine, you shouldn't have any issues. Plus ground clearance, slightly above the crossmember and good header clearance.

 

Here's another nice alternative. Do an internet search for this:

6 quart capacity Oldsmobile big block oil pan NEW Thornton design Cutlass 442 (copy and paste this into your browser search bar)

Thornton Reproductions 6 Quart Oil pan - click here to view



Thornton 6 Quart Oil Pan

This may do a better job of clearing your headers.

Do you have your headers off? Meaning loose? to where you could do a test fit with the engine on a stand? Many places will accept a return on your oil pan in the event it doesn't clear your header providing you return in brand new resaleable condition,

Paul

 

More and more reason to use the DX oil pan I have. And weld Canton one way 20-906 windage screen into it. And weld in a baffle also.
I seen videos of one way screen in action.

Or at least Canton pan. Have my guy weld baffle up better and add the 20-906 windage screen.

Don't need the Thornton hump.
Will see when I have the engine - Batten headers all in my hot little hands. The only way for sure. May have the engine before Christmas. Thanks all for the help!!!

 

It's actually the Moroso pans that I have had / heard / seen to have the most problems with the baffle welds cracking from what I have seen.

That DX pan is a really nice rare item, BUT I personally wouldn't run it on a big block (or a higher winding small block). I am not sure if you are running a small or big block? The front area of the pan ahead of the sump was designed for a low RPM small block with tight clearances to the front wheel drive surrounding components (notably the passenger side axle mid shaft). I have stuffed a few big blocks into FWD '79-'85 Rivieras and Toronado's, and recall that running one on a big block placed the clearances really tight to the sheet metal (which really whipped the oil into an aerated state in my own usages). If you had a '76 and older front wheel drive Toro pan, I would have no direct concerns - those even had a catch baffle to scrape oil off of the crank and divert it back to the sump.

I suppose I should know, or scroll back through a bunch of your posts to see... are you doing a big block or a small block? That factors into the DX FWD oil pan discussion, as it's not always just about capacity, it's also how the oil is handled elsewhere in the pan under high RPM's.

Paul

 

I will check when I have the engine. But do not think that will be a problem. SBO crank.

 

I might be missing something here, so you have a very expensive BTR bullet being built and you want to save money on the oil pan?

 

More important! Not leaking and fitting past the headers. Is the bottom line. And I like the DX pan.

 

I like the idea behind the pan, a stock looking extra capacity pan. Mark said the one he had did not fit well so that is discouraging.

 

The DX pan does look good it has that old school look that I personalty like.

 

For an engine like you are having built, I would think oil control would be the priority. Headers can always be easily modified if a primary tube is conflicting. For what it's worth, the oil pan that Chad posted a link for is a very good pan and arguably better than the others posted here. You did ask "who is building the best pan".

 

OEM and have the diesel oil filter adapter with oil line can be attached. But will not fit with 2'' Kook headers for batten heads. Or a normal filter adapter fit with filter.

 

Easiest to have a good pan that fits!

Chad posted a great pan. Overkill for what I at doing. Maybe I should asked, who make one that does not leak. Since many are having problems.

And fleming442 The best part of all those pans is when the tack welds on the baffle break and it ends up in the bottom of the pan.

Leaming every day! Welded up the baffle. Add the 20-906 kit/ one way windage screen. Other than Chads. It already has one.

 

A NASCAR block and a Bryant crank isn't overkill for a street car? At that point I wouldn't be sparing any expense. Certainly, I wouldn't be worrying about another 3 or 4 hundred dollars. That Stef's pan is a no brainer if it'll fit.

I'm not saying it as criticism. I'm jealous. I had feelers out for a NASCAR block trying to buy one for years and never ever got one a reply. I missed this one by a day or two. Nice build!

 

Street car..... hell yeah! Drive it.There is no better feeling than driving your car to the track, airing down the drag radials, and being quicker than a bunch of big tire trailer riders

 

Maybe. I will let you know after I Shift at 8,000+ rpm from 1st to 2nd to 3rd. With my Lighting Rods. That I been using from new for 39 years!

1st gear. Gas pedal to the floor, never let up. Even at shifting. Up to whatever rpm she will go. Push the Lighting Rod an 1/2'' up. Transmission instantly shifts into 2nd. Better them I could do with an 4 speed with clutch. Do the same for 3rd. What a rush!!!.


!BQMiTFgBGk~$(KGrHgoOKjIEjlLmWpluBJ3j1OuH1w~~ 3

I could not sleep for those few nights, when Rick list this engine and heads. Afraid someone would buy it.(MAYBE YOU) Again bleeding money has to end. I worked hard for everything I have. Not a drag racer. My oil pan setup will be great for my way of driving. No matter what I end up with.

Not to make you crazy. One just showed up on facebook today. I put feelers out to buy that one. But the guy is going to build it.

7:27 AM

Hi Bruce. Would be very interested in the non-siamesed, 2.5 mains. HP block. Would keep 2.5 mains, For small block Oldsmobile crank. Thanks John
10:28 AM
John, I appreciate it but of everything that we picked up, the HP block is the one that will not be sold. Once everything has been checked out, and we determine what we’re keeping, I’ll put the word out when the rest is up for sale.

All you drag racers, should be glad I am not going to the track. My reflexes are lighting fast and I have sharp intuition. You all be saying I jumped the light almost every time. Only to see on video. Me and the light moved at the same time. That and my unorthodox suspension setup. With Lighting Rods.

 

I love my Lightning Rods too, but the wimpy OE shifter cable design left a LOT to be desired (the aftermarket replacement shifter cables are even worse, barely even work - WAY too much end play in them). I tore it all apart and painstakingly modified it for use with a B & M 81831 cable, as I am currently running my 4L85E trans in full manual mode requiring exacting shifter operations to prevent any possible trans damage (by not being in 100% dead nuts proper shifter detent for each gear). Once I get the 535 build installed, the Holley Dominator EFI will be controlling the trans so that I don't have to actuate every gear manually, though it IS fun now that I have worked all of the kinks out of the Lightning Rods shifter - like a sequential shift manual trans without a clutch pedal (full shifter rebuild and rework for use with the MUCH better beefy zero slop B & M shifter cable).

 

Today I learned: people brag about shifting automatics.

 

Well scratch the pan mounted dipstick on the Canton pan. The tube on these full length Chinese stainless headers is way to close. If it was an inch or two ahead, it would work. I can't see many full length headers working with it. I put some #3 Permatex on the threads on the plug and tightened it down.

 

LOL

Now drag racing a manual with an H pattern shifer is another story.

 

What headers are you using? I put a couple gentle curves in my Canton dipstick and it fits with long tube headers.

 

EBay Chinese stainless full length headers. What headers are you using?

 

Might be a dumb question but how does an oil pan enhance performance?

 

By oil control. If the car allows it a pan that moves the oil away from the crank reduces windage. Its part of a system that is vital to engine life and windage control. Pans are purpose built for drag racing, road racing, boats. etc and its all about oil control.

Check out this pan. https://stefs.com/shop/1080/

 

I am old school. Said many time here. Oil embargo of the 70's. Drove many different muscle cars, that nobody wanted. Buying most for $500 or less. We run the **** out of them. Sell them get another. Many were manual transmission. My 1984 H/O is the best, full control, Always foot to the floor shifting. As is HighwayStar. Lonnie at Extreme Automatic and I went over carefully. My rebuilt trans for very high line pressure that was in the 84H/O. With parts to hold up to the higher HP.

Two speed Powerglide? My buddys 1984 H/O drag car. 850+ something HP BBO. Lighting Rods with $6,000 2004R transmission.