charlie_hustle

I am in the process of installing a wideband oxygen sensor and gauge to make sure I am getting the most out of my 72 Cutlass S. I have seen some folks reference o2 sensors in various threads and there was even a thread about which sensor/gauge combo people liked best. However, I can't seem to find a how-to for wiring one of these suckers. I was hoping somebody out there has had some success with these and can tell me what wires/circuits they spliced into, what they used for ground, etc. I have had some trouble even finding wiring diagrams from the o2 manufacturers that actually tell what the 4 or 5 different wires correspond to. Anyway, I will just dive into it if I have to, but I am hoping to avoid reinventing the wheel.

Cheers,
Mike

cutlassefi

What brand are you using? Please don't tell me it's an Innovate, cuz they suck.

charlie_hustle

I haven't bought the sensor yet. I was leaning towards a bosch 6-wire sensor, based only on price and availability. if people have had success with other brands, I'm wide open.

cutlassefi

They pretty much use all the same sensor but it's the controller that makes the difference.

I rep AEM and Accel because imo they're the best and most accurate for the money

charlie_hustle

I'm not going to run them to a controller. Not yet, at least. I have been checking CL for fuel injection kits, but I plan on sticking with the quadrajet for the time being. I rebuilt it recently, and it seems to be pretty close. But, it was my first time rebuilding one, and I'd like the wideband to know for sure. Plus, it would make for a smoother transition to tbi setup or something down the road, if i choose.

Redog

I have a WB in my Alero.

Not really too sure what you are talking about with the wiring, but mine is stand alone.

I bought an Autometer Ultralite and it's pretty accurate. I have a tuner that I plug into the car's computer with a laptop and the WB gauge agrees with the car's computer, althought it's about 1/2 a second behind due to the location of the O2 sensor.

you just have to find a 12v wire that is turned on with a key and not hot at all times, then fuse the gauge. Autometer uses a 3 amp fuse. I don't use a data logger or WOT switch on mine.

The 12v is red and ground is black. In my Delta, all the gauges are grounded on the bolt on the bottom left bolt under the dash. Like your Cutlass, it's all metal, so finding a ground should be easy

Where are you putting the O2 sensor at?

charlie_hustle

I was planning installing it on the drivers side headpipe

cutlassefi

They all run thru a controller, all of them. That's what changes the signal so it can be read by a gauge etc.

Redog - I'll bet your stock computor in your Alero is only using a narrow band. That means it won't read accurately below 14.0:1 or above 15.0:1. That's not a real good way to compare your aftermarket one. I'll bet that Autometer one isn't that accurate. I know first hand.

This is, the NTK is lab grade. It's what all the good ones are patterned after. Nothing is more accurate or consistent.

charlie_hustle

what are good points/wires to tap for sensor's heater leads and ground? I've also been wondering if the heater is even necessary since it isn't going to an ecu. it's going to run rich until the carb's electric choke pulls off anyway, so it seems like i wouldn't miss anything if it warms up gradually from the exhaust gas heat, rather than quickly from an internal heater.

cutlassefi

I'm a dealer for stuff like this;

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...fuel-gauge-25/

And this;

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...gt-monitor-34/

And they're very accurate.

bccan

I like the AEM I have. Wired to power source under dash, can't remember just where. I leave the harnesses in car. Removed the plug from sensor harness & fed it through one of the insulation retainer clips that go through firewall near heater box. It terminates under car & is wire tied to fuel line where it goes into the frame up front. I keep a little plastic bag over the connector when sensor is not in the car. Just have harnesses run to ashtray compartment & clamp gauge onto the opening when I use it.

I have an extra pair of harnesses (one gauge power & other sensor leads) that I use in other people's cars when testing & tuning.

Once I got my hands on this I couldn't figure out how I lived without it!

charlie_hustle

Thanks all for the advice! They do seem like they would take the guesswork out of carb adjustment.

cutlassefi

I wouldn't be so sure. I just got an email from someone who has the same O2 and it's 1.5 points off from the one attached to his FAST XFI ECM. And when he tunes it to the FAST O2 it runs better, hmmm......

Let me guess, it was about $200.00? Just sayin.

Thanks.

64Rocket

Where do you put the sensor? If you have duels exhaust and headers.
Do you need two for that, will one work close enough?
If in a race car, with leaded race fuel, is there one for that.

Gene

TheBigBlueBoat

I've had reasonably good luck with my Innovate MTX-L on my other car. Data values matched up with the dyno tuner's wideband readings, though I will admit it did not have as high a sampling rate as theirs.

The installation was pretty easy. Sensor goes into the exhaust pipe, run the 6-pin cable into the car, connect that to the gauge/controller module. That module had a few wires, including +12V from ignition (fused of course), GND, dimming (optional) then it had a full range 0-5V output and a simulated narrowband output (not used unless you're replacing an existing oxygen sensor with it.)

The analog output can be used to interface with the datalogging hardware of your choice. In my case that meant an SCT handheld.

charlie_hustle

the innovate seems to require fresh air calibration, while the aem versions don't. how difficult is the calibration? it seems like it could be a pain, so I'm leaning towards the aem.

TheBigBlueBoat

Fresh air calibration requires sliding under the car, removing the sensor from the pipe, and letting it rest in free air to run through the calibration process, then re-install it.

It's not terribly difficult, just inconvenient.

cutlassefi

Any, I repeat any of the widebands that require free calibration are suspect to error. You'd think the opposite but I have yet to see one that proved me wrong.

odddoylerules

innnovate is ok, good for monitoring adjustments... is it really at the af ratio? who knows, but track testing tells all. in all its a good tuning tool when combined with real world testing and plug reading. why should it be accurate though lol, we all know tuning is a black art not a true science!!