Cylinder head porting and rebuilding
#41
That's what really needs to be done,whether they are stock irons,or aftermarket aluminums.Everything needs moved UP. The problem is that once you get all of that welding done,remachined,then ported to the moon,you can have a kickass set of ported aluminum heads with all the time & money spent.I had my F-heads ported to the best possible,without altering the outside of them,due to the rarity of the head.If they were something common,like a C or G,it would be cool to do something like that.
Hey
Did you get a flow # on yer "F-heads ported to the"...????
The outside alter action is often not cost effective baby
#42
L69 A long time ago I used to use pieces of cast iron pistons cut to fit and then with a certanium rod I welded the heat riser passages in the exhaust up, then later I used Mondello's Zinc kits which were messy, Do you or anyone else know of a better way to fill up those heat riser? Any information would be appreciated.
#43
How were those heads welded ? Arc welded or Mig ?
I hate that zink stuff Mondello Performace sells, I had M&J Proformance fill my heads with that crap and it started rattling around in the head about four years later.
I don't drive my car much, so over those four years, it sat for over a year, then it was driven maybe 3000 miles over the next 3 years. Only got to race the car about 7-8 times, making a total of 50 runs down the track without using Nitrous, don't think it would of latest that long if I used any Nitrous.
But I must say, when I was grinding out all that aluminum/zink or what ever it is, I didn't find any bumbles or air pockets, so I can't say it was because M&J did a poor job filling the heads with the stuff.
I'm at that point where I need to make the decision to bang a plug in there or try to use a piece of stainless steel from an intake turkey pan to prevent the passage from burning through the intake gasket on the intake.
I have been thinking about welding the crossover passage but probaly will end up just welding the plug I bang in there so it doesn't rattle around eventually.
I just have this gut feeling, I'm going to put this engine back together and the other head that's filled with that zink crap will start rattling around no sooner than I start to have fun again.
I hate that zink stuff Mondello Performace sells, I had M&J Proformance fill my heads with that crap and it started rattling around in the head about four years later.
I don't drive my car much, so over those four years, it sat for over a year, then it was driven maybe 3000 miles over the next 3 years. Only got to race the car about 7-8 times, making a total of 50 runs down the track without using Nitrous, don't think it would of latest that long if I used any Nitrous.
But I must say, when I was grinding out all that aluminum/zink or what ever it is, I didn't find any bumbles or air pockets, so I can't say it was because M&J did a poor job filling the heads with the stuff.
I'm at that point where I need to make the decision to bang a plug in there or try to use a piece of stainless steel from an intake turkey pan to prevent the passage from burning through the intake gasket on the intake.
I have been thinking about welding the crossover passage but probaly will end up just welding the plug I bang in there so it doesn't rattle around eventually.
I just have this gut feeling, I'm going to put this engine back together and the other head that's filled with that zink crap will start rattling around no sooner than I start to have fun again.
#44
SBORule same here it lasted for about 3 years and then I heard it rattling, tore the engine down after letting it sit for over 10 years due to the fact I couldnt work on it anymore, got hurt bad, anyway now I am better and I started working on it and I am plucking out pieces and back in the day when I was a welder and had a great machine at the shop I worked at I could use those small certanium rods and arc weld the pieces in place after much grinding to fit perfect. Just thought someone would have come up with a better way by now. But I am like you just want to have fun and not have to tear it down again.
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
L69 A long time ago I used to use pieces of cast iron pistons cut to fit and then with a certanium rod I welded the heat riser passages in the exhaust up, then later I used Mondello's Zinc kits which were messy, Do you or anyone else know of a better way to fill up those heat riser? Any information would be appreciated.
#46
This is basically how I do it also........
Last edited by Qwik71442; November 10th, 2012 at 07:59 AM.
#48
Thanks Vortecpro for the info I have a couple of high grade aluminum racing pistons out of my motorcycle and I think one per cylinder will work and I just got a cast iron skillet from a yard sale, now to weld a handle on it!
#49
My F's flow sheet from 10yrs ago:
Intake @.28 inches air weight .075
.100 94.6
.200 171.3
.400 224.2
.500 264.8
.600 273.0
.700 284.0
Exhaust
.100 74.4
.200 120.8
.300 151.4
.400 168.7
.500 181.4
.600 188.7
.700 193.8
Intake @.28 inches air weight .075
.100 94.6
.200 171.3
.400 224.2
.500 264.8
.600 273.0
.700 284.0
Exhaust
.100 74.4
.200 120.8
.300 151.4
.400 168.7
.500 181.4
.600 188.7
.700 193.8
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Actually not bored at all, infact I pulled a engine off the dyno and got it boxed up today. Friday a customer dropped off a 455 Olds build, not something normally I would do but I've done work for him before, good savvy customer that knows how to put a car together. Curious as to where this forum member lived in Texas seeing I have a house down there.
#58
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