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I bought a set, 2+ years ago from Mark when they first came out. They are going in this Winter/Spring with a small hydraulic roller with the new 68cc Edelbrock heads. I have seen some positive and some negatives, like at least one major failure with these. It seems nearly everyone has moved onto solid rollers, even with hydraulic profiles. I am going to continue running VR1 10W30, probably switching to the synthetic version next year. Opinions, like I have to ask.
There was a run of bad hydraulics out there in the past. Maybe they've changed things since then. I have a set of Morel link bar hydraulic rollers that I got from Bill when he did my engine that is still in the case on a shelf in my garage. These have less than a half hour of run time and zero miles on them. I hated how much they rattled no matter what oil I used or how I adjusted them. I called Bill up about it and he told me that he's tried Comp, Morel, etc. and he can't make any of them quiet. He told me, at the time, that all he does is BAM solids now. So the Morels are essentially a $600 paperweight.
I replaced them with Topline Hylift SE series and picked up 8hp on a decent 455. Just because YOU haven’t had any issues doesn’t mean others haven’t.
I wouldn’t trust any of your testing, neither should anyone else. you proved you haven’t got a clue on how to do a proper test by your intake manifold test
.
I wouldn’t trust any of your testing, neither should anyone else. you proved you haven’t got a clue on how to do a proper test by your intake manifold test
.
Yep you’re right. You’re the best at everything. I bow to you oh master of the universe.
BUT, I see you’re back to your old ways. I knew the civil behavior wouldn’t last, just a matter of time.
Mark got me these when they first came out, probably a month after their release. Either way not setting them aside to try something else. I spent $1000 Canadian to buy these, was the lastest and greatest from Comp at the time. Glad Dale has seen no issues with them, gives me hope. I won't be spinning them much past 5000 rpm, no point with a 218/218 hydraulic roller cam. Other than seeing one failure from a Pontiac shown on CO, all the other online failures is the old series, from a quick search. Either way, excited to get more power out of this motor. Only need the new Edelbrock heads and pushrods, have everything else, so these will be going in.
I only ran a set for the dyno, no long term use as of yet, I think my comp hyd lifters were pre Evo series, I seen a post on here where they failed, think flemming posted it if I remember. Other than that never heard of them failing. Maybe it was the way it was put together rather than the part.
I did. I don’t know how you can install them incorrectly and I didn't build the engine, but the link bars failed on a Pontiac. It's not a problem until it is, needle bearings through the engine after the wheel turns sideways, and takes out cam lobes.
It's a pitfall and gamble I'd rather not take, thanks.
Have a brand new set. Want them? Make an offer.
Noisy kind of sucks but beats an outright failure. Someone swap me a set of BAM solids, straight across, then sure. I am running VR1 10W30 to help these live. Way too many hydraulic roller lifters failing in the OEM these days, let alone in the aftermarket. It could be MDS but seems to be more needle bearing issues, even on OHC rocker arms like my Pentastar. Knock on wood, no death tick at 150K on mine.
Mark got me these when they first came out, probably a month after their release. Either way not setting them aside to try something else. I spent $1000 Canadian to buy these, was the lastest and greatest from Comp at the time. Glad Dale has seen no issues with them, gives me hope. I won't be spinning them much past 5000 rpm, no point with a 218/218 hydraulic roller cam. Other than seeing one failure from a Pontiac shown on CO, all the other online failures is the old series, from a quick search. Either way, excited to get more power out of this motor. Only need the new Edelbrock heads and pushrods, have everything else, so these will be going in.
look at the date on your installation instruction sheet that came with your evo’s. it’ll be in the bottom right corner
Yep you’re right. You’re the best at everything. I bow to you oh master of the universe.
BUT, I see you’re back to your old ways. I knew the civil behavior wouldn’t last, just a matter of time.
to be more specific about you not having a clue on how to test…you didn’t even know the correct number of turns out from full up on the adjuster screw on YOUR rockers.
I’ll bet you screwed up the preload or something on the evo’s you tested…why didn’t you post up that lifter test with all the relevant info to give everyone a heads up when you did it?
that seems like a relevant test…or was there even a test? you kept it secret , hidden in your bag of tricks to use on me 😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks, for the link, I will follow those instructions, vs my original ones. I may do a comparison, to see what changed. I will be back for determining proper push rod length as well. I will be checking that with the intake off, after degreeing the cam.
The two big changes are the addition of replacement snap rings having a part number and the 1/4 page social media to directly go to with your phone, which is a 1/4 page, now removed. Knocks it down from 8 to 7 pages. It mentions cleaning and then soaking the lifters, will soak them in new VR1, can't even get Comp Cams break in oil, as far as I know around here. I will also prime it with a drill, probably happen or multiple weekends. It will get fresh conventional VR1 10W30, once completely together at start up. I will shop vac the motor before disassembly.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; Jan 5, 2025 at 09:53 AM.
that seems like a relevant test…or was there even a test? you kept it secret , hidden in your bag of tricks to use on me. YOU REALLY THINK I WASTE MY TIME THINKING OF WAYS TO SCREW WITH YOU, WOW!😂😂😂😂😂
I got preload adj direction from the same guy at Comp that the guys at Engine Masters used to deal with. But I’m sure he’s not good enough either.
And even if I posted the Dyno sheets, you wouldn't believe it anyway. So why would I waste my time doing that either?
Go get help.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Jan 5, 2025 at 10:31 AM.
The two big changes are the addition of replacement snap rings having a part number and the 1/4 page social media to directly go to with your phone, which is a 1/4 page, now removed. Knocks it down from 8 to 7 pages. It mentions cleaning and then soaking the lifters, will soak them in new VR1, can't even get Comp Cams break in oil, as far as I know around here. I will also prime it with a drill, probably happen or multiple weekends. It will get fresh conventional VR1 10W30, once completely together at start up. I will shop vac the motor before disassembly.
they should also never be run at zero lash..they are very specific about the preload range, .040” is ideal
do the preload by using a dial indicator at the tip of the rocker on the pushrod side in-line with the pushrod. figure out how much rotation of the adjuster is need to compress the lifter .040” from zero lash. then do all the others by the same rotation of the adjust after zero lash at TDC firing. you only have to use the dial indicator on one to figure out the turn/depression set up for yours
there are way to many rocker ratios and stud thread combinations to get the .040” preload by using the common turns past lash set up….even though in the latest instructions they tell you to go 3/4 turn for 7/16 20 and 1 turn for 3/8 24 studs.
I got preload adj direction from the same guy at Comp that the guys at Engine Masters used to deal with. But I’m sure he’s not good enough either.
And even if I posted the Dyno sheets, you wouldn't believe it anyway. So why would I waste my time doing that either?
Go get help.
that’s a nice little trick,, you put words in my quote that I never said, then adding a response after.
I didn’t have to call Comp to ask what the preload should be….it’s in the instructions
Why don’t you call Trovato, find out why he doesn’t use ANYBODY’S hydraulics anymore either, like a lot of guys. I guess he doesn’t know how to adjust them either right?
Go away.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Jan 5, 2025 at 10:56 AM.
they should also never be run at zero lash..they are very specific about the preload range, .040” is ideal
do the preload by using a dial indicator at the tip of the rocker on the pushrod side in-line with the pushrod. figure out how much rotation of the adjuster is need to compress the lifter .040” from zero lash. then do all the others by the same rotation of the adjust after zero lash at TDC firing. you only have to use the dial indicator on one to figure out the turn/depression set up for yours
there are way to many rocker ratios and stud thread combinations to get the .040” preload by using the common turns past lash set up….even though in the latest instructions they tell you to go 3/4 turn for 7/16 20 and 1 turn for 3/8 24 studs.
So they need a little more preload to run properly. Yeah, they will be 7/16-20 studs and Harland Sharp 1.65 to 1 rocker arms designed specifically for these heads from Mark Remmel. I will be a PIA asking questions, only want to do this once. What kind of set up is needed to properly hold and accuate the dial indicator?
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; Jan 5, 2025 at 11:15 AM.
So they need a little more preload to run properly. Yeah, they will be 7/16-20 studs and Harland Sharp 1.65 to 1 rocker arms designed specifically for these heads from Mark Remmel. I will be a PIA asking questions, only want to do this once. What kind of set up is needed to properly hold and accuate the dial indicator?
"Why don’t you call Trovato, find out why he doesn’t use ANYBODY’S hydraulics anymore either, like a lot of guys. I guess he doesn’t know how to adjust them either right?"
Funny how you side stepped answering this question, Karen.
I was answering your questions when you were civil, no more.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Jan 5, 2025 at 01:02 PM.
Why don’t you call Trovato, find out why he doesn’t use ANYBODY’S hydraulics anymore either, like a lot of guys. I guess he doesn’t know how to adjust them either right?
Go away.
Go away? 😂
that isn’t gonna happen….no matter how much pull you think you have here. this isn’t your thread in the first place….you can join in just like I can. the problem with your responses here , like go away, is they’re childish and dumb.
"Why don’t you call Trovato, find out why he doesn’t use ANYBODY’S hydraulics anymore either, like a lot of guys. I guess he doesn’t know how to adjust them either right?"
Funny how you side stepped answering this question, Karen.
I was answering your questions when you were civil, no more.
I just checked the CO rule book and didn’t see anywhere that it says I have to answer questions from Mike Remmi….especially dumb ones that don’t have anything to do with what I’ve said.
you were actually recommending Comp hyd rollers , 2021, up until the new evo’s came out in late 2022.
Why don’t you call Trovato, find out why he doesn’t use ANYBODY’S hydraulics anymore either, like a lot of guys. I guess he doesn’t know how to adjust them either right?
Go away.
That's exactly what Bill told me on the phone. He said he doesn't do hydraulics anymore because it just wasn't worth the time. He told me he's tried them all and they're all loud, or stick. He said "they're all junk."
This didn't used to be the problem. What happened? Bad QC? Cost cutting? Both?
That's exactly what Bill told me on the phone. He said he doesn't do hydraulics anymore because it just wasn't worth the time. He told me he's tried them all and they're all loud, or stick. He said "they're all junk."
This didn't used to be the problem. What happened? Bad QC? Cost cutting? Both?
Yes, all of the above. You can thank Wall St. It's all about profits, anymore. Then, the scamdemic came along, and gave them an excuse to make everything even crappier. Not much has changed.
That's exactly what Bill told me on the phone. He said he doesn't do hydraulics anymore because it just wasn't worth the time. He told me he's tried them all and they're all loud, or stick. He said "they're all junk."
This didn't used to be the problem. What happened? Bad QC? Cost cutting? Both?
Thank you!! CANADIANOLDS, see this?
Again, I guess Bill doesn’t know how to adjust them either right?
Thanks again oldsfreak.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Jan 7, 2025 at 06:10 AM.
Yes, all of the above. You can thank Wall St. It's all about profits, anymore. Then, the scamdemic came along, and gave them an excuse to make everything even crappier. Not much has changed.
It is too bad, the last of the family owned high performance companies sold out. Once it is up to a board of directors, it is all maximize profits. I have worked for both in the trucking industry and so has my BIL. Simple fact, family owned is usually better but is usually never the same once the sons take over and usually not for the better. When you are born into big money, the son doesn't appreciate his employees the same and have a delusional view of their own value. Unfortunately selling to a corporate entity is usually much worse and all about the dam shareholders, to hell with the employees. Dad had it right being self employed. Either way, these lifters being noisy will suck, will try Dale's method to adjust them, unless someone else has a suggestion. I was going use my baffle free Edelbrock aluminum valve covers but aluminum seems to amplify the sound. I may add a spacer with the 73 Oldsmobile valve covers currently on the engine or try tall chrome valve covers, will see.
You might have a set that are ok. Early on they were fine. Just got worse more recently. I got tired of yanking intakes to replace them. That’s why I went with solids.
I got preload adj direction from the same guy at Comp that the guys at Engine Masters used to deal with. But I’m sure he’s not good enough either.
And even if I posted the Dyno sheets, you wouldn't believe it anyway. So why would I waste my time doing that either?
Go get help.
Don’t post the info for me…do it for everyone else. but, don’t cry and complain like a baby when I poke holes in your crap testing.
Don’t post the info for me…do it for everyone else. but, don’t cry and complain like a baby when I poke holes in your crap testing.
I won’t. When are you going to call Bill T. and tell him he apparently doesn’t know how to adjust hyd lifters?
Let us know when you get a hold of him. Thank you.