in need of Detent ca
#1
in need of trans.. kickdown cable (Detent cable)
I'm in need of a th350 kickdown cable also known as a Detent cable , I found out my was not working properly and its missing the piece that goes on the end, my car is a 1972 cutlass supreme with the th350 so the cable goes from the transmission through the firewall and connects to the accelerator pedal, if anyone has one laying around let me know, if you can post a picture of it, it would be helpful, thanks
Last edited by Al Sanchez; February 21st, 2014 at 12:40 PM. Reason: sent accidentally
#3
[QUOTE=Al Sanchez;657968]I'm in need of a th350 kickdown cable, I found out my was not working properly and its missing the piece that goes on the end,......
The piece that goes on the end is a spring loaded clamp of sorts, that allows for adjustment of the "kickdown" relative to gas pedal position. If that's all that is missing, you don't need to replace the cable; the clamp merely slips over the "shaft" built onto the end of the cable. Let me know if you need one. Thanks, Bob.
The piece that goes on the end is a spring loaded clamp of sorts, that allows for adjustment of the "kickdown" relative to gas pedal position. If that's all that is missing, you don't need to replace the cable; the clamp merely slips over the "shaft" built onto the end of the cable. Let me know if you need one. Thanks, Bob.
#4
Hi Bob, are you saying you have the spring loaded mechanism and the shaft that goes on the cable end or do you have a complete cable ? Im yet to see what the end of the cable that hooks up to accelerator pedal looks like.. if you have the pieces to fix mine im interested in them , if you have the complete cable I might also be interested in it but im waiting on scott (oldspackrat) he said he might have a couple of them but he did know the condition of them, if it don't work out with him I might be interested in the one you have.. here is a picture of what mine looks like
#5
Al, your cable looks fine; all you need is the little flat clip that slides over the end that is on yours, the "shaft" if you will. See if Scott has just the clip. If not I'll dig one out for you. Good pics! Thanks, Bob.
Edit: I just looked at your pics again; in the first one, I can see the problem. You have the swaged-on connector going through the plastic bushing on the gas pedal. It should be on the firewall side of the grommet. The way that you have it will give you a kickdown at very low pedal travel and a delayed upshift during normal driving. The straight rod end (shaft) is supposed to go through the grommet and the flat clip goes on that part of the cable end and gives you your adjustment based on how far you place it on the "shaft". Confused?? Once you see how it works, you'll understand completely.
Edit: I just looked at your pics again; in the first one, I can see the problem. You have the swaged-on connector going through the plastic bushing on the gas pedal. It should be on the firewall side of the grommet. The way that you have it will give you a kickdown at very low pedal travel and a delayed upshift during normal driving. The straight rod end (shaft) is supposed to go through the grommet and the flat clip goes on that part of the cable end and gives you your adjustment based on how far you place it on the "shaft". Confused?? Once you see how it works, you'll understand completely.
Last edited by ROCKETMAN269V; February 22nd, 2014 at 10:08 AM. Reason: More info
#7
Here's what my database says
kickdown cable 71-2 Cutlass
THE RARE ONE, hard to find
Gr. 4.050, GM PN 411340
PN 17364
CABLE, KickdownCable TH350 to firewall, 1971 1972 Cutlass
NAPA part number ATP364 detent cable 1969-72 Cutlass
NAPA part number ATP364 detent cable 1969-72 Cutlass
Gr. 4.050, GM PN 411340 CABLE, downshift or detent, 69-72 F85 TH350
4210 CABLE, downshift or detent, 69-72 F85 TH350.
Cable runs to FIREWALL and GAS PEDAL;
Also on box from Advance Auto:
015-3841-6, 91-32-107254414, SKU=3925188, Barcode 51784
Crossovers: CA-1950, Y-104 [Made in Israel]
It takes a good counterman to find this item.
Try local store or rockauto.com, use above PN's for cross reference
Yah, sure
slight PN diff but PN search finds:
ATP Part # Y364 {#10066481, 10066597, 10085340} Detent Cable / 69 inches
Crap it says Firenza
and photo shows a CARB END fitting, not the throttle pedal end
AHA!!
Call your local Advance Auto, quick!
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header
from:
google sku # finds
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...61725948,d.aWc
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...61725948,d.aWc
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...61725948,d.aWc
kickdown cable 71-2 Cutlass
THE RARE ONE, hard to find
Gr. 4.050, GM PN 411340
PN 17364
CABLE, KickdownCable TH350 to firewall, 1971 1972 Cutlass
NAPA part number ATP364 detent cable 1969-72 Cutlass
NAPA part number ATP364 detent cable 1969-72 Cutlass
Gr. 4.050, GM PN 411340 CABLE, downshift or detent, 69-72 F85 TH350
4210 CABLE, downshift or detent, 69-72 F85 TH350.
Cable runs to FIREWALL and GAS PEDAL;
Also on box from Advance Auto:
015-3841-6, 91-32-107254414, SKU=3925188, Barcode 51784
Crossovers: CA-1950, Y-104 [Made in Israel]
It takes a good counterman to find this item.
Try local store or rockauto.com, use above PN's for cross reference
Yah, sure
slight PN diff but PN search finds:
ATP Part # Y364 {#10066481, 10066597, 10085340} Detent Cable / 69 inches
Crap it says Firenza
and photo shows a CARB END fitting, not the throttle pedal end
AHA!!
Call your local Advance Auto, quick!
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header
from:
google sku # finds
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...61725948,d.aWc
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...61725948,d.aWc
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...61725948,d.aWc
Last edited by Octania; February 22nd, 2014 at 10:42 AM.
#8
Chris, he doesn't need the cable, just the clip on the end. I have both down here in sunny south Florida. [temp today- 83 ] I have parted a number of those cars and remembered from my days working at the Olds dealership that those are not real common, so I save them.
#9
Bob, im still a little confused on how this cable will self adjust, I guess I need it in front of me to better understand it, if you hace the pieces you say I'm missing im interested in purchasing them, im still goin to wait and see if Scott has the complete cable in good condition, it wont hurt to have an extra laying around
#10
Al, it does NOT self adjust. You have to squeeze it with a pair of pliers to take the pressure off and then it will slide in and out on the straight end of the cable that you have now. In the first pic you can see the clip in the jaws of the pliers. The second pic shows the clip attached to the end of the cable. The third pic shows the clip moved all the way in; it will stay wherever you place it and work the detent accordingly. Understand?
#11
Edit: I got beat to the photo of the pinchy clamp. World's only (and darkest) photo of that. THANKS sir, a picture is worth oh about 1500 words these days.
I have seen two variations of this cabin end of the cable.
one type, which I think I see in your pix, has a droplet or spherical shaped ball crimped onto the cable. Over that slides a plastic tube that just barely allows the cable's ball to slide into/ thru it, if you pull hard enough.
The other type has no ball but a solid steel smooth slightly larger steel rod on the upper end of the cable. On this smooth rod, aft of the pedal tang and its plastic slitted bushing, goes a springy clip pinchy clamp [not confusing you with the technical terms I hope!] that gently pinches the smooth rod. I believe this clamp part is discussed above.
I cannot find a picture of this pinchy clamp anywhere on the interwebs. It's about oh 1/2" square.
So, either way, your adjustment goes like this
Pulling the cable in the trans is very easy, like fingertip force.
Pulling the cable hard will be enough to pull the smooth rod thru the pinchy clamp, or the cable's ball into the tight (but not too tight) plastic tube. SO....
final step of the install is to put the pinchy clamp way down far onto the cable, or the plastic tube way down forward past the ball. Then, when you step on the gas pedal, with a good amount of force, it pulls the pinchy clamp out along the smooth rod, or it pulls the cable's ball down into the plastic tube.
When the carb is open all the way (or the pedal stops moving for some other reason) then the cable adjustment activity ceases, leaving the pinchy clamp perfectly positioned on the smooth rod, or the ball perfectly located in the plastic tube.
Thereafter, when WOT is attained by means of the gas pedal being depressed all the way, the trans cable is activated, and everything goes as the factory engineers planned.
I have seen two variations of this cabin end of the cable.
one type, which I think I see in your pix, has a droplet or spherical shaped ball crimped onto the cable. Over that slides a plastic tube that just barely allows the cable's ball to slide into/ thru it, if you pull hard enough.
The other type has no ball but a solid steel smooth slightly larger steel rod on the upper end of the cable. On this smooth rod, aft of the pedal tang and its plastic slitted bushing, goes a springy clip pinchy clamp [not confusing you with the technical terms I hope!] that gently pinches the smooth rod. I believe this clamp part is discussed above.
I cannot find a picture of this pinchy clamp anywhere on the interwebs. It's about oh 1/2" square.
So, either way, your adjustment goes like this
Pulling the cable in the trans is very easy, like fingertip force.
Pulling the cable hard will be enough to pull the smooth rod thru the pinchy clamp, or the cable's ball into the tight (but not too tight) plastic tube. SO....
final step of the install is to put the pinchy clamp way down far onto the cable, or the plastic tube way down forward past the ball. Then, when you step on the gas pedal, with a good amount of force, it pulls the pinchy clamp out along the smooth rod, or it pulls the cable's ball down into the plastic tube.
When the carb is open all the way (or the pedal stops moving for some other reason) then the cable adjustment activity ceases, leaving the pinchy clamp perfectly positioned on the smooth rod, or the ball perfectly located in the plastic tube.
Thereafter, when WOT is attained by means of the gas pedal being depressed all the way, the trans cable is activated, and everything goes as the factory engineers planned.
#12
Thanks alot Chris.. you just clarify this whole cable adjustment discussion, so there is two different types of cable ends, thats what has been confusing to me every time I tried to look at pictures and getting information from one person who has one type and another person who has the other type of cable end, I guess I have the type that needs the plastic tube that will allow the metal ball at the end of the cable to adjust itself in the tube, if I hade the type of cable end, the one with th steel rod then I would just need the metal piece the would crimp over the steel rod and make the adjustment.. Ok.. so I need just that plastic piece for mine, or I need a complete cable, doesn't mater which one as long as it is complete
#13
Well, lookee there in the 1971 service manual
the new phone takes pretty good and pretty LARGE photos!
I think frankly you can use a 2" pc of vacuum line or tygon tubing or similar for the sleeve. As long as you can get it over the cable's ball so that it gets pushed out to the right position during the setting procedure.
the new phone takes pretty good and pretty LARGE photos!
I think frankly you can use a 2" pc of vacuum line or tygon tubing or similar for the sleeve. As long as you can get it over the cable's ball so that it gets pushed out to the right position during the setting procedure.
Last edited by Octania; February 23rd, 2014 at 02:34 PM.
#14
So I checked a few parts cars today & here is what I found. On one car I found the cable that takes the pinchy clamp so I grabbed the clamp because the part that goes in the trans is broken off. I pulled another cable where the part that goes in the trans. is good but someone put a black little tube thingy over a metal droplet thing. So of course I cut the little tube thingy off because I assume it's not supposed to be there. Then I come in the house & revisit this thread, DOH!! I have a couple more cars that probably have a complete cable & I'll try to get a complete cable tomorrow.
#15
Awww... did you ruin a good cable.. there are two different type of cables and I'll take any of the two , they both are different but any of the two will work, I'll keep my fingers crossed you fing one
#18
#21
I ended up getting the one with the clip that you can slide back and forth and adjust yourself, I think this one is better because you can adjust it to the way you like depending on when you want it to kick in. The other cable one is more of a self adjust so it will only kickdown when you floor the throttle all the way and all so I dont trust that plastic clip, I guess it comes to when you want it to kickdown, if you want it to kickdown only when you floor it, then the one with the plastic clip will work, but if you want to adjust it yourself then get the one with the metal clip that you can adjust with just a pair niddle nose pliers
#23
I got Al hooked up; if anyone else needs a cable, I have more. Thanks, Bob.
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