Seeking reasonably priced electric trunk release solenoid for 70-72 Cutlass Supreme. Kinda like looking for hen's teeth I think...

I do not need the harness and switch, but if you have only a "kit" to sell, then let me know what you have and want for it.
Needs to be functional and in good - restorable cosmetic shape.

Thanks!

 

Rob, I'd bet someone will have that for you - keep an eye on ebay, I know, but they often show up there at a decent price

 

I do not do ebay anymore (unless it is an established brick & mortor store that accepts credit cards directly) - forgot to mention that.

 

I saw this add - it is a few months old, but maybe he still has what you are looking for. Good Luck...

8/11/2011 I have lots of excellent used GM 68 442 Cutlass parts-- If you need other non-listed parts-- please contact me too Convertible and Hardtop modelsï¿*All GM, all excellent condition in general RH bucket seat, Delux seatbelt set, Window crank setï¿*black handles, Floorshift speedometer, Floorshift steering column, Black kickpanels No A/C, Black armrestsï¿*front and rear, Console and shifter, Door jamb Vents, Wire harness sections, AM radio w/ ***** #7302013, Dash pads--AC and no AC, Dash bezel and controls, A/C Ducts, A/C evaporator outer and inner box, 8-Track setup w/ plastic console heat diverter, Power vacuum power trunk actuator and switch, Black visors w/ OLDSMOBILE mirror, NOS 68 Interior bezelï¿*cig lighter #397848, Red headliner, Red package tray, 442 Glove box door, Tic-Toc Tac, Convertible top switch, Convertible windshield trim, Courtesy lights, Glass, Windshield pillars, Hardtop window fuzzy setï¿*new repo, Quarter window bright trim and weather-strip ---Shipping is fine for most items--- I can accept Paypal, check, credit card via phone, or money order as payment. Pricing depends on condition and rarity--in many cases I have multiples of parts so price depends on specific condition of that part---- The best way to contact is either email ros6872@hotmail.com or call after 6pm EST @ 203-272-7103--- www.ros6872parts.com ros6872@hotmail.com 203-272-7103 Meriden CT AD#68166

 

Need the electric one - the 68 uses vacuum. If I do not get anything after a while, i will hit him up and press my luck further if he has an early 70s unit......

 

Ironically, I contacted those guys 1 month ago seeking the exact same thing - power trunk release setup. Unfortunately, they no longer had the item in inventory. You should still give them a buzz as it's possible another became available recently.

I eventually went the eBay route. These things move fast.

 

How soon are you planning to do this conversion, or is yours just not working?

 

Absolutely no rush on it - key opens it just fine...

 

I have one that I am not going to use. I will sell it for $80 shipping included to lower 48 states

 

He is just looking for his next project to write about. It's been about a week since he finished the front end.

Larry

 

It has actually been a month - I am far behind!
Time to go back to the rear end again...

 

Hope you find one soon so I can read about. Some of us need more motavation than others.

Larry

 

The NOS solenoid I have does not look like the ones in this photo


It has different attaching tabs and looks like this:

This is the kit I bought on ebay. It was actually Aug 08 when I got it. I found a website that shows how to mount it on the original trunk release so I think I'll be ok. Note: it also came with the jumper wire for the glove box light.

 

i have never seen one like that Allan. would that be for an added power trunk and factory ordered would be the other one?

 

Allan, Rob, & Eric,
That NOS solenoiod is from a mid '70's G.M. car (maybe '73 & up?). I have removed several of these from cars in yards over the years. I have a couple of those right now & maybe an extra '70-'72 version.
Give me a call if you want.
Scott
c. 317-727-7041

 

Eric, it's for an add on. When I bought it (heckuva deal - 25.00) I was a little unsure if it could be adapted to the existing trunk latch. I got an online article (even showing pics) on how to install it. I also have a complete OEM for 72 that works and has the complete harness. I'll see if I can make the NOS one work first before deciding what to do with the OEM one.

Hey Scott, thanks for the info on that. When I got it, the ad said it was for 72. When I looked in the GM Parts manual, I think it made reference to the B/C body trunks. Anyway, it's nice and shiny - I like nice and shiny . Do you know off hand whether the trunk latches for the mid 70 cars you took them off were the same as the early 70's like mine?

 

yeah, that looks like it bolts on to the standard trunk latch - pretty cool

 

I've got one of the ones like Allan has - pulled it out of a junk car with all the wiring, probably paid $5 for it.
The funny thing is, it pulls in hard enough to jump off the ground when it's connected to a test wire, but when I hook it up to the trunk lid, all it does is dim the lights. And, yes, the trunk latch is free. I even installed a relay on the seat back panel with power supplied by an 8ga wire straight from the battery, and no dice.

Ideas?

- Eric

 

Yup, here's one that I sincerely doesn't insult you. Is it properly grounded on the latch? Not sitting on or bolted to a painted latch? Seems to me I remember seeing a ground attached to the lower box the latch snugs to. Anyway, just a thought. Hope you find the problem but it sounds a lot like a grounding issue. What about the harness connection at the glove box? is it good?

 

Hmmmm... could be that the solenoid isn't grounded well - I'll have to try it with the thing grounded directly to the frame and see. I can always make a ground wire from the solenoid on down that runs parallel to the power wire. Funny thing is, I didn't notice any kind of a ground on the donor car.

As for the power, the connection's good, and it snaps the solenoid right open when it's not on the trunk lid.

- Eric

 

Hope it works. The thing in your post that makes me really suspect the ground is the comment .

 

Sounds like it is getting power, but by the dimming lights, is drawing too many amps. I would think if the ground was suspect, it would want to not work at all, or only intermittently? Is the solenoid & plunger somehow getting into a bind on installation? If so, I would think it might cause this? Or when the trunk lid is shut, if it's not adjusted right(have to slam it to get it shut) & puts the latch in a bind when closed, it might take too much effort for the solenoid to flip it open? Shots in the dark...
Let us know.

 

Wouldn't you be able to tell if the latch is binding by using the key in the decklid? The binding theory sounds plausible to me, but I don't know if you can install it wrong enough to cause binding? If I'm reading this right Scott, you're saying that the latch itself may not be properly lined up with the 'squared off' recieved in the trunk itself?

 

The one 1971four4two posted is correct. Whether the other bolt on style will work . . . I haven't tried that style. It will work on Camaros, firebirds 70-81, some B-bodies to 74? and A-bodies 73-77.

The one 1971four4two is a pretty good deal including shipping.

I have three of that style but you "can't touch that" for under 1.5 C notes!!

My $.02.

Tim

 

Good thoughts, Scott.

It does it with the trunk lid open or closed, and I loosened and tightened it a dozen times to be sure it's not binding.

I HAVE had the experience of a starter solenoid pulling a lot of juice but not pulling in because of INADEQUATE power (corroded connections, presumably), so I know this can happen, which is why I installed a relay, but, of course, that leaves the ground at this point.

I may not get to this before the snow falls, but I'll post up a note if running a ground does it.

- Eric

 

1971four4two, PM sent.

MD, the solenoid for that application may not have enough pull to activate your latch. Since it was for a different model, the activating lever may have required less pull to move it or maybe the linkage was in a different position.
The plunger must not be pulling in and to the side at the same time. The plunger makes all of its pull going straight in. Look at the linkage and see if it is binding or not.

 

Try putting solenoid near battery and connecting directly to battery, thus eliminating existing wiring or with assistants help put a voltmeter on solenoid terminals to see what voltage is present. Also check to see if the plunger is moving freely w/o power applied. It may just be stuck. I've been there before, best luck!

 

I know you're tying to be helpful, but you should read the thread first.


Sorry, Rob, I got it off the exact same year and model that i have .

- Eric

 

Eric,
One other thought on this. You said you bought the release at the boneyard. Did you also pick up the wiring harness from front to back? The only other thing I can think of that might cause this problem (other than a bad ground) is that the wire to the trunk is the wrong gage? Hope you find the gremlin soon, those electrical ones are real mischievious...

 

Sorry I missed a portion of the thread

 

Yup.

And used 8ga to the back seat bulkhead, and the original wire from there to the latch.

- Eric

 

Scott will get you one. He might even have a stove pipe for a 350?

 

Wow,

These trunk lock solenoids are really cool.

So let me get this straight, i could connect one of these units onto my OEM trunk lock and with some wiring magic, I could wire up a switch and open my trunk from inside the car??

Perhaps this could be an over-the-winter enhancement for my car...

Would the unit have to be a 1972? or would a bunch of them fit my application??

 

Tony, this is a fairly easy option to install. Yes, you need a solenoid from the 70-72 range. The earlier power trunks were vacuum operated I think.
What you need is the solenoid, a power feed from the front (factory used a jumper wire to connect with the glove box light - you're going to put one of those in too?) wiring to the rear of the car, and the switch from the glove box. Since you're taking out the interior to do some work (maybe replacing the carpet and putting new sound insulation, redo the door panels etc) that is the best time to run the wiring to the back of the car. Easy job - a monkey with a drill would make it look easy.
These units come up on ebay all the time, maybe check with one of the 'parts guys' we use a lot here. One of them is going to have a complete unit for grabs.

 

They used to use a vacuum line from the engine to the trunk!?? That sounds.. Leaky, if there's any cracks in old hoses.

Actually, i think soon is a great time, old carpet is removed, i got a brand new carpet from the parts place last year for xmas, and i am installing the front seat covers soon. I'll check with our friendly neighborhood parts guys and see what they say. What do these units usually go for? Is it only the solenoid that i need?

Thanks Allan,

Cheers,

Tony

 

I guess I will not post the fun of removing the old one...

 

Rob,

So you had a trunk lock solenoid in your car? And you're replacing it?

I honestly havn't taken a good look at the rear lock on my car.

 

Cool!

What should i be searching for on Ebay? It seems that "trunk solenoid" doesn't return any results..

How much do they usually go for? I'm in no rush, but if i come across a good deal i dont see why i shouldn't hop on that like Oprah on a baked ham.

Hah.

 

Try power trunk release or trunk release. They usually go 4 between 50 and 100 dollars. The 1970 version has a chrome with black button that goes in the glove box, the 71-72 is a black with black button. You will need a 3 quarter inch drill bit to make a hole in the glovebox. The button has 4 little plastic ears that are often broken when removing it so make sure the ears are good on any one you're looking at.

 

I searched ebay today (power trunk 442). The only completed auction I found for a factory 70-72 unit came with wires and button was $149. There are a couple auctions running currently. One ends today!


I would like to sell mine that needs some tlc. $50 plus shipping