The rubber-coated triangular piece that has a rubber tube to keep water from entering through the firewall where the clutch actuator rod passes through it. '72 Vista Cruiser/Cutlass.
Thanks.

 

There isn't any "rubber coated" piece there. There is a metal piece sort of triangular in shape that mounts on one part of the two piece steering column "firewall plate" setup. This metal piece holds a separate rubber accordion-style boot in place in the firewall plate. The clutch actuator rod passes through this boot. Any "rubber coating" was part of the old rubber clutch rod boot that had stuck to the triangular piece.

Both pieces are available from repro vendors in case you didn't know that.

Pic below (for an example) of the triangular metal piece that goes against the rubber clutch rod boot....is that what you're looking for?

 

I replaced mine on my 70 car..simple job..take the time to clean and repaint the rod, the triangle and the bolts as mine were pretty grungy.

 

I'll try to get a photo of it tomorrow, just to satisfy your curiosity. In the meanwhile, I have ordered what I think is the correct one from Eckler's. Fits the Elky.
The manual clutch on this car has been a mess since I bought it. The adjustment rod from the z-bar back to the throwout bearing fork is at the absolute end of it's threads and the pedal still has to be flat on the floor to completely disengage. I cannot figure out how to fix that issue.

I've been trying to find a suitable hydraulic clutch but so far both kits haven't worked out. Any experience with those? I'd love to make more room for some long tube headers.
Thx.

 

You can simply make a longer rod out of simple bar stock or threaded rod, use a bench grinder to form the end that fits into the fork.

 

Thanks Andy. I'll put up a photo tomorrow of my 'triangle'. It's not symmetrical like yours is........maybe 2 years makes a difference.

 

I think it's just the pic.....it's not symmetrical either.

Yeah, make another rod or extend yours.

Long tube headers are made to work for your car but some of the back drive parts may have to be removed....not 100% sure.

 

I installed a McLeod hydraulic clutch kit in a '70 Rallye 350; however, I had to modify an AUTOMATIC brake pedal, to use as a clutch pedal, and trim it to fit a manual brake pedal pad. I used the manual brake push rod hole to get the proper pedal ratio. It worked like a charm.

 

I'm using P/N 614018 which I believe to be the correct bearing........installation is kind of a no-brainer..........
Has anybody used the kit from American Powertrain? (the Hydramax with the angled bracket, not the one with the master cylinder on a replacement pedal) There isn't much room below the brake booster for the master cylinder, and the firewall will take some modification around the hole since it is flared outward into the engine compartment.........I think the angle on the pushrod would be OK, but aligning it with the stock pedal may not be easy........

 

 

It would take a wild deviation to put a throwout bearing in backwards, but I guess it's been done......LOL.
The clutch is a centerforce, with oh, I don't know, maybe 30 fingers.
I think I'm going to go with a rod-end/torque tube setup, and make it longer than the stock threaded adjuster to push the throwout bearing lever further back when not engaged.. I suspect either the pedal or the z-bar in the car is incorrect.

 

Here it is. I cut it apart after I removed it. Upon further dissection it looks like someone actually made it from an old bicycle inner tube.

 

That must be the "MacGyvor" version! Had to rig one up in a hurry to escape some dangerous situation.

 

Centerforce lists two different bearings for Olds. The one that you referenced is the shorty.
CTF-N1086 CTF-N1716

 

Yup, I've had both of those.
It's odd.
When I bought the car it had a Muncie in it. Same issue........clutch pedal almost on the floor to activate. I put in the TKO and used the tall bearing you referenced. No difference. But the face of the bearing was worn a bunch. A bunch.
This time, I'm using the shorty.
We'll see.