power door lock actuator
terminals seem ok, seems the arm will not move up or down like its either stuck or just not working---guess i could try to connect to 12 volts and see if i hear it trying to operate
When you hook 12 volts to it (one terminal is for up, the other for down, ground the case) if it sparks that's a pretty good sign the coil is OK. Then I would try to pull away the boot from the body or work the little prayer pipe into the boot by the shaft and squirt in some penetrant (WD40 is OK, but something like PB plaster or Kroil is better). You should be able to move the plunger (shaft) up and down, there'll be some resistance but not much.
I can't find it, but there's an old thread where Rob (Lady72nRob71) rebuilt his power locks. He said it wasn't hard to do. If the guts on yours are bad but the plugs and housings are good, I've got some from a full sized car that have the wrong brackets for the A-body. But you may be able to take the internals out of one of them and install that into yours. Just a thought. John
When you hook 12 volts to it (one terminal is for up, the other for down, ground the case) if it sparks that's a pretty good sign the coil is OK. Then I would try to pull away the boot from the body or work the little prayer pipe into the boot by the shaft and squirt in some penetrant (WD40 is OK, but something like PB plaster or Kroil is better). You should be able to move the plunger (shaft) up and down, there'll be some resistance but not much.
I can't find it, but there's an old thread where Rob (Lady72nRob71) rebuilt his power locks. He said it wasn't hard to do. If the guts on yours are bad but the plugs and housings are good, I've got some from a full sized car that have the wrong brackets for the A-body. But you may be able to take the internals out of one of them and install that into yours. Just a thought. John
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geoff442
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May 29, 2016 08:19 AM



