I just bought a new dash switch to operate the top but the previous owner tossed the original connector that plugs into the switch. All I have are bare wires and I don't want to solder them. I can probably jury rig a butt conector to slip onto the round posts of the switch but it occurred to me that this may allow arcing. Anyone have a used one in relatively good shape? I don't care about the wire harness so long as the connector has two or three inches of wire attached so I can solder my bare wires to it. Thanks

 

I think a wagon uses the same switch for the rear window. If you can't find the plug, you might try going to Radio Shack and getting a connector and using it. There should only be about three wires on the switch. You could use a 4-pin trailer connector if you had to.

 

You can get a new harness from Fusick for this. See page 36 of their catalogue. I'm sure it's what you want, + it's new. Although it will cost more than a connector from ripshack.

Power Convertible Top Harnesses

18395

05805

09425

15605

16735 1972 Cutlass/442 Convertible 60.00

 

Thanks guys. I'll look at what RipShack (I like that..) has to offer. I think a trailer harness would be better since it's made to automotive specs. Would a GM dealership be the right place to locate a trailer harness?

 

I have a spare harness from my 73 Olds.Let me know by e-mail.Kurt

 

Hi Kurt,
How much do you want for it? My switch has four round prongs but only three wires are hooked up to it. Not sure what the fourth prong is for. There are three prongs in a single line or plane. The fourth is 90 degrees to the other pins and is at the end of the three so it forms an "L" pattern. Let me know if your harness is similar or can be made to work. Definitely interested. Thanks for replying.

 

Let's make sure you can use it first.It's not always about money,instead there is real joy in helping others.Anyways, It is 3 prong but you said the 4th prong on yours is useless anyways.Mine is L shape.I did learn that 71-75 crossed parts (exact).I was thinking that a 70 had to be same or close.If you only have 3 live wires then we can probably make it work.Is it the 1st prong of the 3 that is useless?You can email me directly or call to make this easier.Kurt :

517.673.6224 kurt@roxyslansing.com

 

I'll e-mail you a picture of the switch shortly.

 

Which of the 4 connectors on the switch is not used? I have the same issue. Thanks!

 

Here is a picture of the backside of the switch, not sure if it will help or not.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalb...7602930020786/

I can assure you that rat-shack will not have anything close. This is a high-current switch and a solid connection is very neccessary to avoid arcing.

 

Thanks Rob--It appears that the 3 contacts that are used are the ones in a straight line then?

 

You are correct. The 3 used are all in a single line.

 

IF it's the same as a wagon it's those three, the other lug doesn't connect to anything.
It does have to be pretty secure, the connector snaps into the switch retainer and holds it tight.

Here are a couple of pics of one for a wagon tailgate window switch, that pigtail off the relay is for power windows if needed.
Not for sale BTW.

 

Good point Rob. The Shack does not carry anything that well carry that kind of load. He really does need the plug.

 

I am thinking the crustiest of parts cars should have a connector in usable condition.
As long as the contacts are secure on the switch and are cleaned well (a dremel will work) then most used ones should be fine.

 

Thanks for all the tips and advice. Now if I can get Kurt to sell me his spare, I'm good to go. By the way, the screw closest to the steering column holding the switch into the dash was not accessible with a socket because it was right up against the steel bracing. I had to access it with a small wrench through the left gauge pod using a mirror. One quarter of a turn at a time. Now that it is out, I plan on grinding away enough of the bracing to allow a socket to be used. This should save me four or so hours of frustrating work if I have to do it again.

 

Yes, the fourth "pin" is just there so the connector only goes on one way.