I'm new here, and I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 394 and the machine shop found a crack on one of the cam bearing castings. I would like to find a 63-64 block without issues preferably in the pacific northwest area, but anything would be appreciated! I have googled and googled and I figured someone on here would know more than I do.

 

Check the "Parts For Sale". Someone had an engine for sale in the last week or so.

 

Engine shops today see 5.0 Ford blocks cracked in half right down the center of the lifter valley. These engines were not known for failure this way, even supercharged builds on fuel in the days when a early Olds was still competitive. Someone got rough with that valley cover bolt. Did the cam bearing spin? (doubtful). If I ran out of replacement options, I would repair the crack and check for proper fit of cam bearing, and shorten the valley cover bolt a bit. Clean bolt hole with a bottoming tap. Good luck

 

I have a couple but am in IL. My hunch is shipping would be stupid but if you end up setting it up, I could disassemble it down to the block only to save weight.

 

@coldwar do you think it is possible to braze/weld it and be fine? Which method would be better?

 

I don't know if that would work without trying it myself, or seeing the results of a competent repair attempt. I suppose it could also work with silver solder, but the repair depends on the cam bearing staying in place, not walking out or spinning, even slowly. Welding, brazing or soldering doesn't close the gap in which the break has increased the cam bearing race I.D.. I wondered about pressing a bushing over the cracked boss, then fastened mechanically with a nut and washer using a stud with threads long enough to capture that same nut and washer (not 'all thread'). Would mean a ton of trial and error fitting of these parts. No one would see a nut and washer then in that position clamping the valley cover on the top side under intake manifold. But it might be unnerving to have that inside even a stock engine. I would want to safety wire the nut with a through-hole in stud.

EDIT: Another way might attempt to V groove both ends of the break on the stud boss, then clamp the break closed 3 and 9 on the boss, then weld up the V groove at 12 and 6. But welding the iron without a real preheat and proper cool down, the iron might crack again and differently after disturbing the cast iron properties. Welds like that can crack right at the point where the weld ends and the iron starts. Getting beyond my knowledge and experience there. Caveat emptor.

SECOND EDIT - Without some measuring, I don't know if there is enough room to get a pipe die over the boss, perhaps boss O.D. cleaned up a little, allowing a nut or pipe fitting of some kind to thread over the boss to close the gap, fastened the same way with a safety wired nut and washer. Then still, would the cam bearing remain in place in operation?

Hope you can find a block, any block isn't tied to the car through a stamped serial number in your year, so a different block of same year does not matter in terms of originality. Good luck

 

It looks like the crack goes all the way down to the inside diameter. You could silver solder it, or maybe weld it with a high nickel rod. The problem is going to be is the cam bearing bore to big ?

Could you Loc-Tite and pin the cam bearing after its silver soldered ? Yes.

I don't think the shop would want to build it with a crack or a repair.
Since its not the last engine block on earth, it may be a lot cheaper to get another block. You're going to rest a little easier if know the block is good to start with.

 

Time for a upgrade 425 455 Olds. I have both here in Nor Calif.

 

It would be helpful to know your location for shipping purposes.
Miguel-x has a '63 Starfire he is parting out . Has a running engine.
He's in southwest NM
63 Starfire 64 88 parts for sale - ClassicOldsmobile.com

 

Hallo -==- yes, I have two running engines. Both will need rebuilds or refresh. One is a 63 Starfire Ultra High Compression 4 bbl dual exhaust and one is a 64 88 2bbl. Lets see if we can work something out. As Charlie pointed out, I am in SW NM.

 

Not sure if it would work for you, but I just looked at a 394 short block with transmission attached this afternoon. The casting numbers on the back of the block are: 578135-4 1/8 Its located outside Grants Pass Oregon. Let me know if this is something you'd like to investigate, and I'll help you get in touch with the owner. John

 

not mine but this has been in Craig's list in Chicago.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/p...425030760.html