68 or 69 Hurst Dual Gate bracket?
68 or 69 Hurst Dual Gate bracket?
So I fabbed up (not very well and would rather get a little closer to the real thing) a rear bracket for the Dual Gate I am putting in my 68 442. Does anyone have any parts laying around..if you don't want to sell it. Could I get some dimensions or a tracing of the part? It is the rear bracket that bolts shifter down to the tranny tunnel.
Any help would be HUGELY appreciated!
Thanks
Tom
68 442
70 F85
Any help would be HUGELY appreciated!
Thanks
Tom
68 442
70 F85
Yes, it is for the H/O console. That would be great!!! Get me a little sheet metal and I can go to town! I'll PM my address to you!! Or even a scan might work!! Whatever works best and easiest for you.
Thank you, thank you,
Tom
Thank you, thank you,

Tom
Hope this will make things easier if you use the two templets it will give you the angles and shape i put templet on inside of bracket traced the shape on the one .
Last edited by firefrost gold; May 11, 2012 at 04:09 AM.
That is perfect! You are a gentleman and a scholar. See....this is the kind of people you have on a truly great forum group! Help each other out stay focused on our common interests! LOVE THIS PLACE!
tom
68 442
70 F85

tom
68 442
70 F85
Tease
It looks like that thing is going to pop in the right light . Could use some full side shots . How long till it will see the road ? Sorta reminds me of the schwinn orange krate bike's
It looks like that thing is going to pop in the right light . Could use some full side shots . How long till it will see the road ? Sorta reminds me of the schwinn orange krate bike's
Last edited by firefrost gold; May 24, 2012 at 04:09 AM.
Got my Hurst Dual Gate Bracket fabbed up.
Finally, I got my bracket built thanks to Shane (Firefrost gold) for the template! Worked out fine, and will install it tomorrow night hopefully.
Tom
68 442 convt
70 F85
95 Aurora
Tom
68 442 convt
70 F85
95 Aurora
Got the Dual Gate mounted
Got the shifter mounted up and trying to get the top plate, lens for PRND21 and reflector all put back together....Does the whole lens, bulb holder assembly mount to the top plate with an adhesive or double sided tape?? If you look at the pics I see what looks like remnants of some adhesive but it has been so long I CRS.
Tom
68 442
70 F85
95 Aurora
Tom
68 442
70 F85
95 Aurora
Another in need...
Sorry for the thread resurrection, but I find myself in need of similar help if the original posters are still around.
I'm a Pontiac guy, but decided to go ahead and redo this Olds Dual Gate while I was doing a couple of others. This one started out pretty rough but it was good experience and I used it as a test mule for the new black oxide system I was trying. I figured I was probably going to end up just selling the handle, but it came out well and now I'm thinking I should fix the mounting brackets and see if anyone needs this shifter.
Having seen what they were supposed to look like now, I may be better off starting from scratch on the brackets (see photos). If the original posters, or someone else on the board can help out with templates I would greatly appreciate the assistance. Or if someone can use this shifter as is drop me a line. I have dipped it to remove the rust, fresh black oxide plating on frame parts, fresh chrome on handle and dust cover, new shift **** of my own creation (modified industrial **** 1.42"). No neutral switch but housing is there.
Thanks in advance for any replies...
I'm a Pontiac guy, but decided to go ahead and redo this Olds Dual Gate while I was doing a couple of others. This one started out pretty rough but it was good experience and I used it as a test mule for the new black oxide system I was trying. I figured I was probably going to end up just selling the handle, but it came out well and now I'm thinking I should fix the mounting brackets and see if anyone needs this shifter.
Having seen what they were supposed to look like now, I may be better off starting from scratch on the brackets (see photos). If the original posters, or someone else on the board can help out with templates I would greatly appreciate the assistance. Or if someone can use this shifter as is drop me a line. I have dipped it to remove the rust, fresh black oxide plating on frame parts, fresh chrome on handle and dust cover, new shift **** of my own creation (modified industrial **** 1.42"). No neutral switch but housing is there.
Thanks in advance for any replies...
Nice work, blowd! I'm out of town working nights, but could probably replicate the dimensions in a few weeks if you don't have any help before then. I'd be curious to see your restoration process if it's not proprietary, as I have one for my '68 H/O to do (or get done)... conversely, if you are considering selling just the shifter stick to convert it to a pontiac piece, I'd potentially be interested if the chrome is perfect...
That doesn't look like the same shifter base as the 68 69 have . I could be wrong but i wonder if that is a generic one say that could have gone in a ford or a chevy like the yanks had . Thats what it looks like to me any numbers on it ? or a date ?
Thanx for the quick responses guys!
Tom:
If you still have those around that would probably be the most efficient. I've gotten pretty close scaling some of your photos, but nuthin like the real deal. I'll try to return the favor somehow.
Shane:
Thanx for providing the original template btw. I don't know that there is really a way to identify the frames used by Hurst in house, vs the retail packed ones. I based my ID on the hacked up mounting brackets that were attached to it. All the early dual gate parts were 5xxx part numbers. This one has a 5876 frame number and the same 3292450patent number as Toms pictured above. I have taken a photo from a similar angle for you to compare. The neutral safety adjustment and mechanism are same as a 67 GTO unit though most of them I've seen say Patent Pend.
Luke:
Appreciate the backup plan will let you know. I don't think you'd want this handle for a show car, it's more destined for a driver or someone's H/O or Yenko clone. It was pretty rough when I got it and the HURST lettering started getting thin when the plater tried to get all the pits out so he left a couple in the H. I've let him know to call me in the future cause these things can be recarved to some extent prior to nickel going on.
My "proprietary" LOL process is to simply disassemble, evaluate, remove loose scale and address pitting if possible. Then it's a vinegar/salt bath to remove rust (and a fair amount of oxide which is also "rust"). Chrome parts go out, hardware gets replaced as necessary and metal parts get black oxide coated in similar fashion to original. This time I used EPI room temp black oxide system. You can watch there vids at https://ecommerce.epi.com/ProductDet...tCode=IB-33301 They sell a sample kit, which is enough to do small/med parts, but I also got the 515 sealer as the sealer in the kit leaves an oily finish. The 515 is diluted, water based that dries relatively dry (eventually) but I did have to wipe it down to get an even finish. Attached are a before and during photo. I can go into more detail if anyone is interested in this product vs the marginal (IMO) eastwood stuff.
Tom:
If you still have those around that would probably be the most efficient. I've gotten pretty close scaling some of your photos, but nuthin like the real deal. I'll try to return the favor somehow.
Shane:
Thanx for providing the original template btw. I don't know that there is really a way to identify the frames used by Hurst in house, vs the retail packed ones. I based my ID on the hacked up mounting brackets that were attached to it. All the early dual gate parts were 5xxx part numbers. This one has a 5876 frame number and the same 3292450patent number as Toms pictured above. I have taken a photo from a similar angle for you to compare. The neutral safety adjustment and mechanism are same as a 67 GTO unit though most of them I've seen say Patent Pend.
Luke:
Appreciate the backup plan will let you know. I don't think you'd want this handle for a show car, it's more destined for a driver or someone's H/O or Yenko clone. It was pretty rough when I got it and the HURST lettering started getting thin when the plater tried to get all the pits out so he left a couple in the H. I've let him know to call me in the future cause these things can be recarved to some extent prior to nickel going on.
My "proprietary" LOL process is to simply disassemble, evaluate, remove loose scale and address pitting if possible. Then it's a vinegar/salt bath to remove rust (and a fair amount of oxide which is also "rust"). Chrome parts go out, hardware gets replaced as necessary and metal parts get black oxide coated in similar fashion to original. This time I used EPI room temp black oxide system. You can watch there vids at https://ecommerce.epi.com/ProductDet...tCode=IB-33301 They sell a sample kit, which is enough to do small/med parts, but I also got the 515 sealer as the sealer in the kit leaves an oily finish. The 515 is diluted, water based that dries relatively dry (eventually) but I did have to wipe it down to get an even finish. Attached are a before and during photo. I can go into more detail if anyone is interested in this product vs the marginal (IMO) eastwood stuff.
Good News!
Jeff, I found the pattern and some pictures that Shane had sent. I got your address and will mail it tomorrow.
I measured my shifter ball and it measures 1.71 in diameter. I couldn't tell you what car my Dual Gate came out of, I bought it years ago off of Epay. Good luck and let me know when you get the letter! Don't worry about anything in return, just paying it forward. Thanks again to Firefrost Gold for helping us both out!!
Tom
PS Don't ya just love this forum?
I measured my shifter ball and it measures 1.71 in diameter. I couldn't tell you what car my Dual Gate came out of, I bought it years ago off of Epay. Good luck and let me know when you get the letter! Don't worry about anything in return, just paying it forward. Thanks again to Firefrost Gold for helping us both out!!
Tom
PS Don't ya just love this forum?
Luke:
Appreciate the backup plan will let you know. I don't think you'd want this handle for a show car, it's more destined for a driver or someone's H/O or Yenko clone. It was pretty rough when I got it and the HURST lettering started getting thin when the plater tried to get all the pits out so he left a couple in the H. I've let him know to call me in the future cause these things can be recarved to some extent prior to nickel going on.
My "proprietary" LOL process is to simply disassemble, evaluate, remove loose scale and address pitting if possible. Then it's a vinegar/salt bath to remove rust (and a fair amount of oxide which is also "rust"). Chrome parts go out, hardware gets replaced as necessary and metal parts get black oxide coated in similar fashion to original. This time I used EPI room temp black oxide system. You can watch there vids at https://ecommerce.epi.com/ProductDet...tCode=IB-33301 They sell a sample kit, which is enough to do small/med parts, but I also got the 515 sealer as the sealer in the kit leaves an oily finish. The 515 is diluted, water based that dries relatively dry (eventually) but I did have to wipe it down to get an even finish. Attached are a before and during photo. I can go into more detail if anyone is interested in this product vs the marginal (IMO) eastwood stuff.
Appreciate the backup plan will let you know. I don't think you'd want this handle for a show car, it's more destined for a driver or someone's H/O or Yenko clone. It was pretty rough when I got it and the HURST lettering started getting thin when the plater tried to get all the pits out so he left a couple in the H. I've let him know to call me in the future cause these things can be recarved to some extent prior to nickel going on.
My "proprietary" LOL process is to simply disassemble, evaluate, remove loose scale and address pitting if possible. Then it's a vinegar/salt bath to remove rust (and a fair amount of oxide which is also "rust"). Chrome parts go out, hardware gets replaced as necessary and metal parts get black oxide coated in similar fashion to original. This time I used EPI room temp black oxide system. You can watch there vids at https://ecommerce.epi.com/ProductDet...tCode=IB-33301 They sell a sample kit, which is enough to do small/med parts, but I also got the 515 sealer as the sealer in the kit leaves an oily finish. The 515 is diluted, water based that dries relatively dry (eventually) but I did have to wipe it down to get an even finish. Attached are a before and during photo. I can go into more detail if anyone is interested in this product vs the marginal (IMO) eastwood stuff.
Just for reference, I found two pictures on my computer of the dual gate in my '68 H/O. It's in rough shape, and I did get a pretty nice replacement already (zero rust, nice black coating, and two chrome thin spots with no rust).
I was trying to figure out though if this was the original one to the car... the base has a '002812' stamped into it.
Tom:
Thanx for the assist. I will return the template to you when completed. You "live" on this forum so you can be "caretaker". ;-)
Luke:
I will check that location on mine and see what I come with. Not being an Olds guy, my understanding was the 68-69 cars were modified by Hurst, much like a Shelby Mustang or Hennesy Viper, so you will probably never get called out on numbers. But I certainly understand how it's nice to know.
I appreciate you all helping a newb on the board. You are all welcome over on the Pontiac boards as well. In case anyone was interested, Performance years has joined with Ames Perf. Forums are now at http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/ Many problems or information transcend one particular model, so if ya stop by tell em some guy with a blowd up pontiac sent ya.
-Jeff
Thanx for the assist. I will return the template to you when completed. You "live" on this forum so you can be "caretaker". ;-)
Luke:
I will check that location on mine and see what I come with. Not being an Olds guy, my understanding was the 68-69 cars were modified by Hurst, much like a Shelby Mustang or Hennesy Viper, so you will probably never get called out on numbers. But I certainly understand how it's nice to know.
I appreciate you all helping a newb on the board. You are all welcome over on the Pontiac boards as well. In case anyone was interested, Performance years has joined with Ames Perf. Forums are now at http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/ Many problems or information transcend one particular model, so if ya stop by tell em some guy with a blowd up pontiac sent ya.
-Jeff
-Jeff
Thought I would post an update.
Thanx to Tom for the use of Shane's template, I'm not the master fabricator but project came out well enough with a little black paint for cover up. I also managed to scale some pictures and use what was left of my front bracket to recreate that as well.
My original rear bracket seems to have been the wider version, but this one was much easier to make. Photos show what I started with, along with the recreated pieces, and finally the end result.
Appreciate the help!
Thanx to Tom for the use of Shane's template, I'm not the master fabricator but project came out well enough with a little black paint for cover up. I also managed to scale some pictures and use what was left of my front bracket to recreate that as well.
My original rear bracket seems to have been the wider version, but this one was much easier to make. Photos show what I started with, along with the recreated pieces, and finally the end result.
Appreciate the help!
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