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Looking for a complete set of upper control arm shims. I beleive that they came in a set of 12 and (3) different sizes 0.030", 0.060" & 0.120". New or in great shape.
I beg your pardon the W-27 cover is an original (not a fake) bought from another Oldsmobile collector in Burke VA many years ago and it wasnt cheap. In the case of the console latch which no one reproduces i made one by hand (made in the USA) I have managed so far not to put any parts made in China on my automobile and would like to continue. Even my "Force Air Induction" is original and made in the USA. I have never bought ANYTHING that was made in China that was of good quality so why should i start now. I will make some by hand before i buy chinese. Their standards are not the same.
........ How many cars were re-aligned at the dealer with factory shims under warranty?
When I worked at the Olds dealership, we re-used factory shims, that were removed from cars, to correct the alignment; had piles of them in the alignment pit.
If you're not in a hurry, and can let me know which ones you need, I should be able to get you oem used shims.
Not in a hurry but would love to find some soon. I dont have part numbers but i know they were about (12) total 0.030", 0.060" & 0.120" plkease let me know if you find some.
I beg your pardon the W-27 cover is an original (not a fake) bought from another Oldsmobile collector in Burke VA many years ago and it wasnt cheap. In the case of the console latch which no one reproduces i made one by hand (made in the USA) I have managed so far not to put any parts made in China on my automobile and would like to continue. Even my "Force Air Induction" is original and made in the USA. I have never bought ANYTHING that was made in China that was of good quality so why should i start now. I will make some by hand before i buy chinese. Their standards are not the same.
I truly don't mean anything other than to inform you. Please don't be upset with me but sadly, you got took. This is a repop cover.
We had a repop and the original side-by-side and there is a difference in the thickness of the aluminum and in the casting used originally and it was obvious but think what you want. I am the only one that as to know the truth.
........i know they were about (12) total 0.030", 0.060" & 0.120" .........
As I explained in your PM, each vehicle is unique as to where and how many shims are placed. By adding or subtracting equal amounts, you can change the Camber; by adding or subtracting from either the front or rear position, you alter the Caster. This is an over simplification, but you get the idea. The vehicle would have to be checked on alignment equipment to determine if, where and how many shims would need to be added/subtracted. If you were closer to me I would have you bring me the car. I have a Hunter alignment set-up and have been doing alignments for ......a long time.
Of course, i totally understand but my shims are a real mess and none are originals so i could measure each one and tell you the total thickness that i would need. I wish you were closer i would bring the automobile to you.
We had a repop and the original side-by-side and there is a difference in the thickness of the aluminum and in the casting used originally and it was obvious but think what you want. I am the only one that as to know the truth.
There are more than one repop out there and this one is the better of the two that I have seen but this is a repop. If you have had a real one you can spot a repop from a mile away weather it is the better repop or the bad repops. Again, I am only trying to inform, not trying to nitpick your stuff.
Of course, i totally understand but my shims are a real mess and none are originals so i could measure each one and tell you the total thickness that i would need. I wish you were closer i would bring the automobile to you.
It doesn't matter what the thicknesses were before, other than to get you close. The fact that the suspension has been apart says that the only way to get the correct shim pack thickness is to perform a proper alignment. That's why the parts book says "AR" - as required. Just loosening and tightening suspension bolts will change things. Unless you only plan to push the car off and on the trailer at shows, do it right.
Joe, i plan on it. I keeped each set of shims (4) labeled and bagged so that i can install the same thickness prior to a front end alignment (it wont be perfect but close to what i had).
There are more than one repop out there and this one is the better of the two that I have seen but this is a repop. If you have had a real one you can spot a repop from a mile away weather it is the better repop or the bad repops. Again, I am only trying to inform, not trying to nitpick your stuff.
I did a search on past threads concerning original vs reproduction. I couldn't find one with good clear photos of the various reproductions vs an original. I would be interested in seeing such a comparison.
I did a search on past threads concerning original vs reproduction. I couldn't find one with good clear photos of the various reproductions vs an original. I would be interested in seeing such a comparison.
The imperfection I circled in this picture is the simplest way to tell. There are others as well
This may clear my situation on the shims. They are all different sizes but i strongly suspect that the ones in the middle of the first picture is original in size. I also found a set for Corvette's in which size, thickness and original part number match. Here is the link in case anyone else may be interested in them (USA made): https://www.ebay.com/itm/153960594674
That is good to know but just curious on how you do your own alignments without a big Hunter? Is it something that anyone can do with the correct tools? I would love to do my own if i could.
That is good to know but just curious on how you do your own alignments without a big Hunter? Is it something that anyone can do with the correct tools? I would love to do my own if i could.
You don’t need a large alignment machine to do an alignment. I use a camber/ caster gauge, toe plates, and you may have to use the string method to make sure your front wheels are aligned with the rear wheels.
The basic problem with a DIY alignment set-up is you can't take the "runout" of your wheels. In other words, if one/both of your front wheel outer lips are slightly out of true with the center, where it attaches to the hub or the drum/rotor surface isn't true or has dirt between the wheel and mounting surface, you can't get an accurate reading. The set-up that I have, while being portable, also allows me to compensate for an out of true situation. When doing an alignment, you're actually aligning the spindles, not the wheels. The first thing that I do when checking alignment, after checking for worn ball joints and loose wheel bearings, is to attach my alignment heads and slowly rotate the wheel, while watching a bubble level. By adjusting three thumb screws that hold the head to the mounting fixture, I get the alignment head in a true vertical plane. Then any readings that I get are true to the spindle.
I also do my own alignments. The biggest investment is a set of turn plates so you can turn the wheels to set camber. I was fortunate to find a used set relatively inexpensively at Carlisle. I know some people use layers of wax paper or greased masonite to facilitate turning the wheels, but that seems squirrrelly to me. I've tried several different types of toe gauges. These two aluminum plates with tape measures have been the easiest to use and most accurate. There are a variety of magnetic bubble gauges for caster and camber.
The basic problem with a DIY alignment set-up is you can't take the "runout" of your wheels. In other words, if one/both of your front wheel outer lips are slightly out of true with the center, where it attaches to the hub or the drum/rotor surface isn't true or has dirt between the wheel and mounting surface, you can't get an accurate reading. The set-up that I have, while being portable, also allows me to compensate for an out of true situation. When doing an alignment, you're actually aligning the spindles, not the wheels. The first thing that I do when checking alignment, after checking for worn ball joints and loose wheel bearings, is to attach my alignment heads and slowly rotate the wheel, while watching a bubble level. By adjusting three thumb screws that hold the head to the mounting fixture, I get the alignment head in a true vertical plane. Then any readings that I get are true to the spindle.
The magnetic gauge I posted above mounts to the hub, not the wheel, but that requires you to remove the center cap which can be a PITA. Frankly, if your wheels are that far off, you'll probably feel it as vibration at speed. And if you really care, just check alignment with the wheels clocked a couple of different ways to check.
With very few shops willing to align older automobiles like ours this is great information. You can probably buy all the tools for about the same price as an alignment job.
Truth be told the turn plates are not cheap but worth searching for. It is refreshing to know that one can actually do their own front end alignment providing they have all the necessery tools and knowledge on how to go about it. I have seen Snap On, Hunter and Weaver turn plates average used price of $500.00 and not sure which brand as more longevity and accuracy than the others. The search for knowledge and tools will go on.
There's nothing magic about the turn plates - just bearings and sliders that avoid preloading the suspension when you turn. Frankly the Chinesium ones are fine when you do one alignment a year or less. Also, mine are ancient and I got them at Carlisle for like $50. Keep your eyes peeled.
Joe, i truly appreciate the offer and i may take you up on it but i have a mobile welder coming to weld the washers in the pictures, than i go to shimming and in the end i will need to align the front end. I will keep you posted as i still want to get original ignition, glove box key's made. Louis.
April 6th, 2022, 04:17 PM
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