4 barrel carb and intake
#1
4 barrel carb and intake
I am looking for a 4bbl carb and intake that anyone is trying to get rid of. They need to be in good working order. My engine is a 350 auto with ac ps pb cruise control. Thanks
#2
I have an old school Edelbrock OL4B intake. Will not work with a motor with an HEI distributor. Will work with the old school points distributor case.
John
John
Last edited by Eightupman; September 7th, 2012 at 01:17 PM.
#4
I have several "core" Q jets, but nothing that I would bolt on and run. Even if I took it off a running car, I'm not going to sell one toting that "it runs great". I also have a few old school Holleys, however one of them is missing parts and all need to be built. If you are interested I can get you some part numbers this weekend.
John
John
#6
a Q jet kit is less than $20 from Orielly's but you have to be REALLY good at measuring and making float adjustments, and setting the mixture and idle screws properly. Its not HARD, but its not the easiest thing out there either. Best is to get the Cliff Ruggles book if you plan to do one. I'll sell you a core cheap enough that if you F it up, you won't be in it for too much money, and if you make it work you learned something and got a decent deal in the process.
Or you can just send it to someone like Sparky's Carbs and it will come back "bolt on".
I can get you some pics this weekend unless someone chimes in with a deal before I get to it. Pics of the carbs and the intake?
John
Or you can just send it to someone like Sparky's Carbs and it will come back "bolt on".
I can get you some pics this weekend unless someone chimes in with a deal before I get to it. Pics of the carbs and the intake?
John
#8
#9
it was desigened for pre HEI ignition 330 or 350 small blocks. The manifold will bolt to any year 350 (or 307, 403) HOWEVER, the HEI distributor will hit the back runner when you put the cap on. So you would have to run a smaller "points" housing with a Petronix type electronic module in it... Some people on here have said they are running it. I have pics where it will not clear...
John
John
#11
The intake was bead blasted, cleaned, and the threads have been chased... I cannot remember if I had to heli-coil any of them or not. I cannot remember how good/bad the coolant ports were either.
It's been sitting so it will either need to be hit with the beads again, or painted.
John
It's been sitting so it will either need to be hit with the beads again, or painted.
John
#13
I would recommend that if you rebuild a Q-Jet, you order a rebuild kit from Cliff Ruggles. www.cliffshighperformance.com A kit with float, thicker gaskets and rubber that is completely impervious to ethanol, or any other of the additive in todays gas cost about $35 delivered. His kits have a lot more in them that parts store kits, and all 3 of my Q-jet cars run perfectly. I can't speak to the quality of those parts store kits today, but I had numerous problems a few years ago with flooding, stalling and poor idle because the rubber parts swelled from the ethanol and other additives.
#15
I would recommend that if you rebuild a Q-Jet, you order a rebuild kit from Cliff Ruggles. www.cliffshighperformance.com A kit with float, thicker gaskets and rubber that is completely impervious to ethanol, or any other of the additive in todays gas cost about $35 delivered. His kits have a lot more in them that parts store kits, and all 3 of my Q-jet cars run perfectly. I can't speak to the quality of those parts store kits today, but I had numerous problems a few years ago with flooding, stalling and poor idle because the rubber parts swelled from the ethanol and other additives.
John
Last edited by Eightupman; September 7th, 2012 at 08:12 PM.
#16
John
#17
Thanks alot John i really appreciate your honesty. These are going on my daily driver, im not exactly looking for performance, just realiablility. I dont want to have to adjust the carb every every few hundred miles. My 2 barrel is just running so bad. I am definitely going to look into those kits with the ethanol resistant parts because i am sure that is part of my problems. Thanks again
#20
I have to sort out these carbs and many others to see what ones I'm willing to part with.
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52550d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181630.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52551d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181636.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52552d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181653.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52554d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181757.jpg)
Now this carb is NOT for sale, but it was completely remanufactured by Sparky's Carb Service. I'm merely posting the pic to give you an idea of the work that is available out there.
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52550d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181630.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52551d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181636.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52552d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181653.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52554d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181757.jpg)
Now this carb is NOT for sale, but it was completely remanufactured by Sparky's Carb Service. I'm merely posting the pic to give you an idea of the work that is available out there.
![](/forums/attachments/parts-wanted/52553d1347159638-4-barrel-carb-intake-img_20120908_181724.jpg)
#22
They are the two back water jackets. They are corroded. Pic 6 is the drivers side "plug" and pic 7 has a brass pipe threaded into the jacket *** seen in the lower left of pic one. That is where the heater valve would go, but someone just clamped a hose to the pipe and let it ride.
Its a 50/50 call on the integrity of the water jackets. I wouldn't have a problem using this manifold IF I had something to bolt it to. However, I would NOT use the steel stamped "turkey tray" gasket because I am sure the dis-similar metals will cause you heartache and leaks no matter how much RTV you used. I would use this intake with the Mr Gasket fiber gaskets and RTV on the jackets. This is what I do anyway. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-405G/
If I had a set of gaskets I would toss them in, but I just used both of my sets on a recent build/rebuild... (long story)
I will also tell you that it looks to be coated with SOMETHING aluminum colored... its way too clean on the inside, and its way too smooth on the outside. I had said that I had bead blasted it, and I can tell you, I didn't blast this one, it must have been another I had.
If you are interested, make me an offer... if not, I won't be heart broken. I'm not going to twist your arm to buy something you won't be happy with, no matter the deal... I'll work on getting numbers and applications off the carbs sometime tomorrow.
John
Its a 50/50 call on the integrity of the water jackets. I wouldn't have a problem using this manifold IF I had something to bolt it to. However, I would NOT use the steel stamped "turkey tray" gasket because I am sure the dis-similar metals will cause you heartache and leaks no matter how much RTV you used. I would use this intake with the Mr Gasket fiber gaskets and RTV on the jackets. This is what I do anyway. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-405G/
If I had a set of gaskets I would toss them in, but I just used both of my sets on a recent build/rebuild... (long story)
I will also tell you that it looks to be coated with SOMETHING aluminum colored... its way too clean on the inside, and its way too smooth on the outside. I had said that I had bead blasted it, and I can tell you, I didn't blast this one, it must have been another I had.
If you are interested, make me an offer... if not, I won't be heart broken. I'm not going to twist your arm to buy something you won't be happy with, no matter the deal... I'll work on getting numbers and applications off the carbs sometime tomorrow.
John
#23
So its safe to use with the water jackets like that? It wont overheat or anything? Im not looking to spend alot of money, that why im looking for used stuff. I dont have $600 to spend on a new intake and carb. Could you do $200?
#24
I'll do you better than $200 on the intake. I'll leave you some room to take it to a competent machine/welding shop. Have them fill the pits with fresh aluminum and then you can get it planed level. Last time I had an aluminum intake worked (it was cracked) it only cost me $30... let me get the carbs sorted out and I'll work you a package deal. Will that work for you?
John
John
#26
Originally Posted by Eightupman Not sure how you would call either one of these an upgrade to a well build Q jet... but ok....
it was a upgrade for me.. some people love Q jets some don't. i have always worked with holley carbs. the Edelbrock 600 was on there when i bought the car. thats why i swapped it out with a holley MY choice of carb.
it was a upgrade for me.. some people love Q jets some don't. i have always worked with holley carbs. the Edelbrock 600 was on there when i bought the car. thats why i swapped it out with a holley MY choice of carb.
#27
I have a few later 70's non computer carbs that I would part with. I'm not sure how to determine what size motors they came off of though.
17058253 1978 Olds
17059253 1979 Olds
17057256 1977 Olds
17056253 1976 Olds
17057262 1977 Pontiac
17059230 1979 Caddy
7045240 1975 Buick
I'm thinking I could do $200 for the intake and carb, plus shipping, and even after you rebuild and work the intake, you are still well under that $600 for new junk.
PM me with your address if you are interested...
Also, I'll take trades for Olds parts as well. I'm building a 455 and need a bunch of new parts.![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
John
17058253 1978 Olds
17059253 1979 Olds
17057256 1977 Olds
17056253 1976 Olds
17057262 1977 Pontiac
17059230 1979 Caddy
7045240 1975 Buick
I'm thinking I could do $200 for the intake and carb, plus shipping, and even after you rebuild and work the intake, you are still well under that $600 for new junk.
PM me with your address if you are interested...
Also, I'll take trades for Olds parts as well. I'm building a 455 and need a bunch of new parts.
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
John
#28
Well i only have $280 to spend. My metal guy priced me around 80 bucks for the work if he can even do it. He said he needs to see it to be 100% sure. And the Q-jet rebuild kit i was planning on getting is $80 and i dont know if it needs jets or a choke pull off or other things. Can you do 130 for everything?
#31
Well i only have $280 to spend. My metal guy priced me around 80 bucks for the work if he can even do it. He said he needs to see it to be 100% sure. And the Q-jet rebuild kit i was planning on getting is $80 and i dont know if it needs jets or a choke pull off or other things. Can you do 130 for everything?
I think your metal guy is just telling you he doesn't want to work it, or is not competent in welding aluminum and is worried he will crack it. I also did some research and the pitting can be filled with the same high heat epoxy used to fill crossovers in heads. I'll just see if I can get the manifold worked cheaper here someday. All in all, I don't need to sell any of it, I was just reaching out to help a fellow Olds guy. I'll put it back into storage.
Good luck in your search.
John
#32
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