Parting out 1967 Cutlass 2 door hardtop
#1
Parting out 1967 Cutlass 2 door hardtop
Updated with photosI bought this about 6 years ago with the plans of making it into a driver and selling it as a project car. I'm glad I didn't get around to it because I pulled the carpet out and discovered the floorpan is rusted out for both the driver and passengerside. Something I never expected! So... I'm pulling most of the interior and some odds and ends for a 442 project car then will be dismantling and selling the rest. There is also rust in the trunk. I know, you guys in the rust belt may think I'm over reacting but there's not much demand in my part of the country for a project like this. I tried to sell it several times as a rolling chassis needing only an engine and transmission but got no interest. I know we're required to place prices on parts for sale so let me mention a couple items to get things started. Prices don't include shipping.
Headlight surrounds, aluminum pieces $15 each side or $25 for the pair
Headlight buckets underneath the surrounds, same price as above
Grill bar, $20
Fenders $200 each or $350 for the pair
Inner fender wells $50 each or $75 for the pair
Let me know if there's something specific your looking for and if I have it I'll get pictures for you. John
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Headlight surrounds, aluminum pieces $15 each side or $25 for the pair
Headlight buckets underneath the surrounds, same price as above
Grill bar, $20
Fenders $200 each or $350 for the pair
Inner fender wells $50 each or $75 for the pair
Let me know if there's something specific your looking for and if I have it I'll get pictures for you. John
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Last edited by 2blu442; January 1st, 2011 at 12:38 PM. Reason: To add photos
#2
Hi,
I happen to have come across an ad that you were selling this car that I just bought in June '10, the car is 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. You stated you didn't want to sell it but you needed to make room, you also said it came from Southern Calif. Can you give me any details how you came about it? Through a friend, through an ad, etc...? Also, can you please give me any details on the car once you took possession of it and/or what you may have done to it in the 1,000 miles you stated you put on it while you owned it? I am VERY interested in any info you are able to provide on this car!
Thank you!
I happen to have come across an ad that you were selling this car that I just bought in June '10, the car is 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. You stated you didn't want to sell it but you needed to make room, you also said it came from Southern Calif. Can you give me any details how you came about it? Through a friend, through an ad, etc...? Also, can you please give me any details on the car once you took possession of it and/or what you may have done to it in the 1,000 miles you stated you put on it while you owned it? I am VERY interested in any info you are able to provide on this car!
Thank you!
#5
Hi Joe
This was an AC car from the factory that the previous owner modified. I believe it has the non-AC under hood box, but then he pop rivited sheet metal to make the hole smaller. I haven't pulled it yet, but believe the under dash box is the original AC box. Once I get it all apart I'll post pictures, and your welcome to the parts that will work for you. I'd encourage you to create a parts wanted post to see if other members have the rest of the parts you need. John
This was an AC car from the factory that the previous owner modified. I believe it has the non-AC under hood box, but then he pop rivited sheet metal to make the hole smaller. I haven't pulled it yet, but believe the under dash box is the original AC box. Once I get it all apart I'll post pictures, and your welcome to the parts that will work for you. I'd encourage you to create a parts wanted post to see if other members have the rest of the parts you need. John
#7
Panos, I don't know if they're the same from 1965 but if this will work and you want it its yours. Here's a few photos, the previous owner did drill a hole just behind the wheel to mount a tac. The blinker arm is different in appearance from the gear shift arm. Check out the photos and let me know what you think. John
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#8
I can maybe make it work but i think i would need the inter.shaft too and the steering ´wheel is just perfekt if its included
Some pics of what i have right now,i dont think that is the original column either.
Some pics of what i have right now,i dont think that is the original column either.
#9
Hi Panos
It may be next weekend before I can get the column pulled, but if you want to try it its yours. How about $40 plus shipping? I'll check, but it may be cheaper to ship the column in one box then the steering wheel in another. I can use a long skinny one for the column and lower shaft with the blinker and shifter arms removed. Plus a small squarish one for the wheel. I know shipping overseas won't be cheap, so I can experiment with different sized boxes to see what would be the most cost effective. John
It may be next weekend before I can get the column pulled, but if you want to try it its yours. How about $40 plus shipping? I'll check, but it may be cheaper to ship the column in one box then the steering wheel in another. I can use a long skinny one for the column and lower shaft with the blinker and shifter arms removed. Plus a small squarish one for the wheel. I know shipping overseas won't be cheap, so I can experiment with different sized boxes to see what would be the most cost effective. John
#10
Hi Panos
It may be next weekend before I can get the column pulled, but if you want to try it its yours. How about $40 plus shipping? I'll check, but it may be cheaper to ship the column in one box then the steering wheel in another. I can use a long skinny one for the column and lower shaft with the blinker and shifter arms removed. Plus a small squarish one for the wheel. I know shipping overseas won't be cheap, so I can experiment with different sized boxes to see what would be the most cost effective. John
It may be next weekend before I can get the column pulled, but if you want to try it its yours. How about $40 plus shipping? I'll check, but it may be cheaper to ship the column in one box then the steering wheel in another. I can use a long skinny one for the column and lower shaft with the blinker and shifter arms removed. Plus a small squarish one for the wheel. I know shipping overseas won't be cheap, so I can experiment with different sized boxes to see what would be the most cost effective. John
#20
That is a real nice car, sorry to see it get parted out.
Do You, or Panos, have a good column shifter that would work on my 65?
Would also like 2 speed wiper switch for 65, missed the $weetheart $witch on e-bay.
LMK
Jim
Do You, or Panos, have a good column shifter that would work on my 65?
Would also like 2 speed wiper switch for 65, missed the $weetheart $witch on e-bay.
LMK
Jim
#22
slowolds, replied through PM
Jim, are you needing just the shifter arm off the column? Then the wiper switch, is that the switch mounted on the dash? Well... to quote a post I read this evening it does have "flintstone floorboards". Yes, if it didn't cost so much to ship a whole car this would have been a good platform to build on for someone in the rust belt area.
67 Delta 88 Hardtop, The Cutlass has an aftermarket radio. But I do have some radio's that I've collected over the years. I'll try to make time this weekend to look at the Chassis Service Manual for a picture of the correct one you need. John
Jim, are you needing just the shifter arm off the column? Then the wiper switch, is that the switch mounted on the dash? Well... to quote a post I read this evening it does have "flintstone floorboards". Yes, if it didn't cost so much to ship a whole car this would have been a good platform to build on for someone in the rust belt area.
67 Delta 88 Hardtop, The Cutlass has an aftermarket radio. But I do have some radio's that I've collected over the years. I'll try to make time this weekend to look at the Chassis Service Manual for a picture of the correct one you need. John
#25
I'm sorry Panos, this last weekend the weather was very cold and foggy for all but a couple hours each afternoon. I'll try again this next weekend to make more progress on the cars. John
#28
Thanks Richard
Panos, I have a 1965 column that needs the blinker parts replaced, they're plastic. I know I've seen them in repop but right now I'm not sure where. I could remove the wheel to make sure that's all it needs. Once I find them I could also purchase a repop setup to include in the box since your overseas. How does that sound? It would need shipped in a separate box, but I can also throw in the 1967 Steering wheel if you want John
Panos, I have a 1965 column that needs the blinker parts replaced, they're plastic. I know I've seen them in repop but right now I'm not sure where. I could remove the wheel to make sure that's all it needs. Once I find them I could also purchase a repop setup to include in the box since your overseas. How does that sound? It would need shipped in a separate box, but I can also throw in the 1967 Steering wheel if you want John
#30
Steven, I know "restorable condition" varies in different parts of the country. When I was in my teens I lived in Clyde New York for a year. I still remember the family car that was about 5 years old with rust holes the size of a fifty cent piece in fenders!
Moses, thank you for the complement!
John
Moses, thank you for the complement!
John
#38
John,
I need a couple black headlight surround screws for my '68. Would the '67 screws work in the '68 headlight surround holes? Just curious.
And I have yet to check out fan blower switch for my '68.
Also, would you have any idea where the build sheet is located for my '68? I attempted to remove backrest of rear seat looking for it and accidentally chipped rear deck molding just behind the backrest! Yes... voices in my head called me a few names soon after!
Thanks John!
I need a couple black headlight surround screws for my '68. Would the '67 screws work in the '68 headlight surround holes? Just curious.
And I have yet to check out fan blower switch for my '68.
Also, would you have any idea where the build sheet is located for my '68? I attempted to remove backrest of rear seat looking for it and accidentally chipped rear deck molding just behind the backrest! Yes... voices in my head called me a few names soon after!
Thanks John!
#39
1bad67, PM sent
scubastever, it will be next weekend before I have time to pull them. But I'll get some good photos for you to view. I believe they have bumps in the chrome.
radioburningchrome, that's a 1971 Cutlass 4 door. Over the years I've had some Buicks but have tried very hard to keep life simple by focusing on Oldsmobiles. OK... maybe I haven't really kept my life simple with all the stuff I've drug home, but at least I've got spare parts for almost everything in the driveway!
Moses, I'll pull a 1968 screw and see if I can match it. I've got lots of coffee cans of nuts and bolts! How many do you need? A build sheet could be several different places. First I'd check under the rear seat, the bottom you sit on up in the springs. That's the most common I've seen and probably the easiest place to check. Other locations I've heard of or seen for 1968-72 cars is behind the seat back of bucket seats, under the carpet where the console bolts down, under the package tray, between the gas tank and underside of trunk pan, behind the door panel. But its common for Lansing built cars to not have any. There's posts discussing that and the frustration of trying to verify something rare like a W30 without this paperwork. Good luck with your treasure hunt, but yes try to be gentle and not damage anything in the process! John
scubastever, it will be next weekend before I have time to pull them. But I'll get some good photos for you to view. I believe they have bumps in the chrome.
radioburningchrome, that's a 1971 Cutlass 4 door. Over the years I've had some Buicks but have tried very hard to keep life simple by focusing on Oldsmobiles. OK... maybe I haven't really kept my life simple with all the stuff I've drug home, but at least I've got spare parts for almost everything in the driveway!
Moses, I'll pull a 1968 screw and see if I can match it. I've got lots of coffee cans of nuts and bolts! How many do you need? A build sheet could be several different places. First I'd check under the rear seat, the bottom you sit on up in the springs. That's the most common I've seen and probably the easiest place to check. Other locations I've heard of or seen for 1968-72 cars is behind the seat back of bucket seats, under the carpet where the console bolts down, under the package tray, between the gas tank and underside of trunk pan, behind the door panel. But its common for Lansing built cars to not have any. There's posts discussing that and the frustration of trying to verify something rare like a W30 without this paperwork. Good luck with your treasure hunt, but yes try to be gentle and not damage anything in the process! John
#40
Thanks John! You are a HUGE help with ALL your advice!
4 screws would be plenty, Thank you!
Regarding 1971 Cutlass sedan in background... the 1971 Skylark roof line looks so close, I should have known it was a Cutlass!
I will check the location of build sheet, you gave me lots of options to pick and I will check the posts regarding it as well. This Cutlass was built at Fremont, Ca. Still have yet to hear back from 44teetwo (or whatever name was), tho he did say he's not taking any private messages.
Thank you & take care.
4 screws would be plenty, Thank you!
Regarding 1971 Cutlass sedan in background... the 1971 Skylark roof line looks so close, I should have known it was a Cutlass!
I will check the location of build sheet, you gave me lots of options to pick and I will check the posts regarding it as well. This Cutlass was built at Fremont, Ca. Still have yet to hear back from 44teetwo (or whatever name was), tho he did say he's not taking any private messages.
Thank you & take care.