69 Rallye Pac with harness
69 Rallye Pac with harness
1969 Rallye Pac with speedo and harness $650 OBO plus shipping
I don't know if it works
41FAD23F-B1A4-4A8B-9491-C95FAA0D6491_zpscs18z5w5.jpg
02F42A95-1479-46D0-8CAA-22855F63D60F_zpsdnwrv08v.jpg
DEAD1807-BC81-4FCB-8082-A7282B674C61_zpsqgbpmx8h.jpg
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I don't know if it works
41FAD23F-B1A4-4A8B-9491-C95FAA0D6491_zpscs18z5w5.jpg
02F42A95-1479-46D0-8CAA-22855F63D60F_zpsdnwrv08v.jpg
DEAD1807-BC81-4FCB-8082-A7282B674C61_zpsqgbpmx8h.jpg
0B19AAFD-F2AE-426E-9236-AA66DA22EA4C_zpsrv4yr2ig.jpg
3CD9ACEA-AE45-4C59-9DEA-DBAA2529CFFB_zpsmjakvfir.jpg
'68 and '69 are the same EXCEPT that you would have to change out the speedometer cable - the lead that goes into the speedometer is different for '69 than it is for '68.
It looks like the other end of the fuse holder (brown wire) is missing from what is pictured. To connect the tic-toc-tac, the brown wire would need the 2amp fuse and would run from the tac to the negative side of the coil. If you have a blank pod currently in that space, you would need the orange hot wire to run to the open tab (that wire, with the proper connector, might already be in the standard wiring harness). The grey wire simply piggy-backs into your existing grey wire and provides the lighting for that pod. If you already have a clock in that position, the orange and grey wires will already be there as well.
For the gauge pod, that requires repositioning of the wires in your existing harness if you have idiot lights (see attachment below). You would also have to change out the sending units for oil pressure and water temperature on your engine. And, to make the water temp gauge work as designed, you would have to disconnect the green wire from your ignition to disengage the "check circuit". Otherwise, your temp gauge will "pin" to the max side when you start your car as the check circuit engages, and then return to normal operation when the check circuit disengages.
Randy C.
It looks like the other end of the fuse holder (brown wire) is missing from what is pictured. To connect the tic-toc-tac, the brown wire would need the 2amp fuse and would run from the tac to the negative side of the coil. If you have a blank pod currently in that space, you would need the orange hot wire to run to the open tab (that wire, with the proper connector, might already be in the standard wiring harness). The grey wire simply piggy-backs into your existing grey wire and provides the lighting for that pod. If you already have a clock in that position, the orange and grey wires will already be there as well.
For the gauge pod, that requires repositioning of the wires in your existing harness if you have idiot lights (see attachment below). You would also have to change out the sending units for oil pressure and water temperature on your engine. And, to make the water temp gauge work as designed, you would have to disconnect the green wire from your ignition to disengage the "check circuit". Otherwise, your temp gauge will "pin" to the max side when you start your car as the check circuit engages, and then return to normal operation when the check circuit disengages.
Randy C.
'68 and '69 are the same EXCEPT that you would have to change out the speedometer cable - the lead that goes into the speedometer is different for '69 than it is for '68.
It looks like the other end of the fuse holder (brown wire) is missing from what is pictured. To connect the tic-toc-tac, the brown wire would need the 2amp fuse and would run from the tac to the negative side of the coil. If you have a blank pod currently in that space, you would need the orange hot wire to run to the open tab (that wire, with the proper connector, might already be in the standard wiring harness). The grey wire simply piggy-backs into your existing grey wire and provides the lighting for that pod. If you already have a clock in that position, the orange and grey wires will already be there as well.
For the gauge pod, that requires repositioning of the wires in your existing harness if you have idiot lights (see attachment below). You would also have to change out the sending units for oil pressure and water temperature on your engine. And, to make the water temp gauge work as designed, you would have to disconnect the green wire from your ignition to disengage the "check circuit". Otherwise, your temp gauge will "pin" to the max side when you start your car as the check circuit engages, and then return to normal operation when the check circuit disengages.
Randy C.
It looks like the other end of the fuse holder (brown wire) is missing from what is pictured. To connect the tic-toc-tac, the brown wire would need the 2amp fuse and would run from the tac to the negative side of the coil. If you have a blank pod currently in that space, you would need the orange hot wire to run to the open tab (that wire, with the proper connector, might already be in the standard wiring harness). The grey wire simply piggy-backs into your existing grey wire and provides the lighting for that pod. If you already have a clock in that position, the orange and grey wires will already be there as well.
For the gauge pod, that requires repositioning of the wires in your existing harness if you have idiot lights (see attachment below). You would also have to change out the sending units for oil pressure and water temperature on your engine. And, to make the water temp gauge work as designed, you would have to disconnect the green wire from your ignition to disengage the "check circuit". Otherwise, your temp gauge will "pin" to the max side when you start your car as the check circuit engages, and then return to normal operation when the check circuit disengages.
Randy C.
Thank you s much for the information, I will be upgrading my gauges a little bit down the road so I need to pick up the sending units as you mentioned.
Ryan
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