PS> I do have big car (88 and 98) trim pads and mounting brackets available if you would like to install the 8 track in one of those models.
PSS> I also have refurbished players that work great but have some pitting etc in the chrome available at various prices. Please inquire via email with
your needs.

The part is located in Louisville, KY 40299.

Thank you,
Randy

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Very nice. I think these were available in 1967 for the Delta 88's as well.

 

Weren't the 67's the 4 **** model/style player?

 

Opps... You might be correct. My shop manual is in the shop.

 

Very nice.

Good deal all ya'all, especially with the tape.

 

Randy has done repair work (broken case & mounts) on my 8 track setup, and provided belts I needed. He is solid and reliable. If you have any doubts, it will be quickly laid to rest if you buy this. He's one of the few guys I know who works with these 8 tracks and does repairs on them. Anyway, just my 2¢ worth.

 

this thread keeps calling my name. i want one but not ready to fork out the money.

 

I know what you mean. It was a big ticket item for me too. When you're ready I know you won't be disappointed, I know I'm not.

 

I just dug mine out of storage after probably 8 years or so, Randy repaired mine years ago and it looks great. Now if I can just find the directions he gave me I'll be all set. I just hooked up an 8-track player (nice vintage wooden one) for my house setup, man do those tapes sound awful, though I am playing it through the phono inputs so I may try hooking it up to an auxiliary input, maybe that will work better.

 

Thank you for the kind words Allan. Glad to hear your player is still rockin' the neighborhood.

Steve,
It's been a while and I don't recall if your player had it's plugs or not. If it does, the hook up is pretty straight forward. The player gets wired in between the car and the factory radio. Unplug your radio, plug the male plug from the car into the 3 pin female plug on the 8 track. Then plug the 3 pin male plug from the 8 track into the radio. If you have a stereo or rear seat speaker, do the same with that wire. Unplug the wire from the radio and connect the corresponding plugs together and you're all set. If it doesn't have it's plugs, email me and I'll tell you what's what.

I would have a good friend (someone you trust)help hold the player while you install it. They are heavy and it's awkward getting up in place and holding it there while you get the nuts on the threaded studs. The one next to the glove box is a pain.

In fact, if your car has never had an 8 track and needs the two small pilot holes drilled for the screws that go through the tabs, I would recommend installing the housing with out the player in it first. Get the housing fitting at the right angle with the trim pad as flush as possible up to the dash. Remember that, if needed, you can add washers to the threaded studs if you want to rotate the rear end of the player down and the front up so the trim pad meets the dash better. Then take it out and install the player into the housing and reinstall it all assembled.

Don't forget the ground strap and rear support brace. The ground strap goes from the pass side threaded stud to the tab on the chromed face of the player. The rear support brace goes from the passenger side screw on the rear edge of the player/housing to the heater box. There is no dimple on the heater box to mark the spot to attach the brace. Just screw it to the heater box where it needs to be.
Feel free to email any questions to w70442@hotmail.com.
Randy

 

i threw a CD player in my 8 track housing,looked awesome,and fit perfect

 

8 tracks are cool!

 

Thanks Randy, I'll see what I have, I remember seeing the ground strap you sent me, need to see if I have the mounting bracket. When I find all that I'll email you.

 

Yeah, I make the guage and stereo housings based on the 8 track housing. I've done a few custom housings including one where the guy wanted the 8 track front trim pad on the housing. It does look pretty good. I think Pete frequents this board.

Sounds good Steve. I'll be here.......I hope.

 

Randy, I got all my parts in front of me. I have the AM/FM stereo with the additional amp. The easy part is the black multi-pin cable goes from the radio to the amplifier. The amplifier only has one blue wire coming out of it. I assume that goes to the rear speaker.

The 8-track has the male pin connector you described above - mine is a clear color with black, light blue and yellow wire - this connector snaps into the stereo. then I have a grey three wire connector coming out of the tape player as well - I am thinking this snaps into the under dash harness. It has green, blue with black stripe and a black wire coming out of it. There are also two additional wires one is blue with a white stripe and the other is blue with a red stripe - are these speaker wires? and if so that means I have three speaker wires - two from the 8-track and one from the amp. Thanks.

 

Steven,

You got it right.
The 8 track gets installed inline or in between the stereo and the car. So, the blue wire from the stereo/amplifier/multiplex box will plug into one of the two blue wires from the 8 track. If they have their plugs on them, just chose the one on the 8 track that fits the one from the stereo/amp/multiplex(male/female). Then plug the other blue one from the 8 track into the rear speaker wire itself.
Do you know how to mount the multiplex box? You have to pull the glove box liner out to mount it up behind the glove box. Hope you don't mind laying on your head.
There are illustrations in the chassis service manual but I fogot if you have one or not.

 

Duh, I just looked at your first post and my 8-track has the same connectors and wires your does in that image (just a couple of variations on color) so the 8 track must be wired correctly just need to know where the blue ones go and the blue one from the amplifier goes. I'll have to check my new harness under the dash. I do not remember seeing a 3 connector pin to hook up to the 8-track player.

 

Read my post above, I think you posted your last post while I was typing it.

Sorry, I thought you already had a factory radio hooked up in the car with the original plugs.

The three pin connector on the car that plugs into the radio, if you have a radio/stereo only, comes down from the front dash speaker. It actually just has two wires snapped into it. The light blue front speaker wire in the center and the ground wire for the front speaker on the left. The far right slot just has a double sided pin. It's female on one end and male on the other. The yellow power wire comes over from the fuse box and piggy backs into the rear side of the three pin connector from the front speaker.

 

Just received back my repaired housing from Randy. Nice job dude. As soon as I make up a rear support bracket I'll be ready to install into the 71 droptop.

As stated before by others you can't go wrong with Randy doing the work. He knows what he is doing with these 8 tracks and you won't be disappointed.

Thanks again

It will get alot of looks at the cruise ins this summer

Dick
Battle Ground, WA

 

I bought an eight track from Randy.

GREAT guy to do business with.....

 

Thank you for the compliments guys. I enjoy helping out and being a part of the restoration of so many nice cars. Even if it's in a small away.

 

I considered leaving mine out when I put the dash back together but it sounds like some think it is worth putting back in... Interesting

 

Yep, they are attention grabbers at the shows and cruises.
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I bought one of these 8 Tracks from Randy for my 70-442 about a year ago. It plays perfectly. He does an excellent job in refurbishing these units. It goes back to the old saying " You get what pay for"

 

'67 8-Track Deck

 

Do you sell the housing itself for mounting an original 8 track. I bought one recently and the mounting tabs are broken on each side

 

Hi Bee,

I may be able to help you out. Is the front vertical section of the original housing you have intact/complete? If so, I may be able to repair it for you. Here's a pic showing all I need from the original housing to repair it. Note whether or not the top left and right ends/corners of the front vertical section are broken or missing on yours. Look at this pic and let me know what you think.

 

Front



Rear





Noticed a crack here

 

Hey Bee,

I checked the pics. Looks like the pass side at the top corner is cracked as you pointed out. Shouldn't be a problem as long as all the pieces are there when I get it. Do you have the missing bracket?

I can repair it for you for $89 + return shipping(approx $17 in the US) plus $10 each for any mounting brackets if needed. I'll need your address to figure exact shipping.

Here's some more detailed info on my housing repair procedure....

As long as the front vertical section (the part with the holes for the **** shafts and tape door) is complete, I can repair the housing to better than new since 90% of it will now be made of nice fresh new textured plastic as opposed to the dull, scratched up brittle original plastic. I will also guarantee that it won't ever break on the sides where the brackets attach like the original plastic does.

I basically cut the entire rear U shaped part of the housing away from the front section. I then make and attach a new rear U shaped section, made of textured plastic that very closely matches the original texture, to the old front section. The seam between the old and new sections is hidden behind the rubber trim piece once it is reinstalled. So, once the rubber trim piece is installed, it is very difficult to tell from the outside of the housing that it has ever been broken. With the housing installed, you’d have to know these housings very well and be up very close to it to be able to detect that it isn’t an all original housing. Even then, there is no visible evidence of a repair. The new rear U shaped section will even have the heat venting slots just like the originals. The most noticeable difference is the fact that, as I mentioned above, most of the housing will now be nice new textured plastic so it may look too new for being 40 plus years old. I’ll let you decide whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing. I suppose it could be scuffed up if you want it to look like a 40 year old original housing. The heat vent slots are not shown in the pic but will be there on the repaired housing.

I reproduce the metal mounting brackets so it is not a problem if you are missing one or both. They are $10 each with a paid repair. They are $30 a pair plus sh if sold separately.

I have repaired over 70 housings at this point and everyone has been very pleased at the results. The housing in my car is one that I repaired and I scored a first place at the 2003 Oldsmobile Nationals in Cincinnati.

The repair is $89.95 + return shipping and $10 for each mounting bracket needed.

As I said earlier, I will guarantee that it will never again break on the sides where the mounting brackets attach.

Mounting brackets $30pr + ship Includes original style semi-tubular rivets. Mounting brackets are just $10 each with paid repair.
Rear support brace $19 + $2 ship
Red power lens $6 Free ship
Drive belts $19 Free ship
Braided ground strap $8 Free ship.

I do offer discounts on multiple item orders and items purchased in addition to a housing repair. As you can see, a pair of mounting brackets are discounted $10 with a paid repair.

You can buy a new reproduction housing from a major Olds vendor for $109 plus whatever their shipping is but the player won't fit correctly in it and they use common pop rivets to install the mounting brackets which are incorrect and look incorrect. Since my repair process uses the original front section of the housing, you can be assured that your player will fit correctly in the repaired housing. I also use the correct painted head semi-tubular rivets to attach the mounting brackets so it will look correct in that regard as well.

Be glad to answer any questions you might have.

Please email me directly at w70442@hotmail.com if you would like to proceed with having it repaired.