1964-77 Olds parts for sale
#761
Hi Pete
I do have the parts, but think you can save money by purchasing a set already on the East Coast. I suspect Eightupman would have a set or know someone who does, he's in the Southeast. If he doesn't you could create a thread in the Parts Wanted section. I would suggest you try those ideas first and use me as a last resort. I have no problem pulling a set of heads for you, but shipping across country would likely add $50-100 to the price. John
I do have the parts, but think you can save money by purchasing a set already on the East Coast. I suspect Eightupman would have a set or know someone who does, he's in the Southeast. If he doesn't you could create a thread in the Parts Wanted section. I would suggest you try those ideas first and use me as a last resort. I have no problem pulling a set of heads for you, but shipping across country would likely add $50-100 to the price. John
#764
would anyone happen to have assorted parts for a 1970 toronado.. i am looking for a right front fender, rear quarter, taillights, steering wheel with horn in the rim of the wheel, or even the entire column if available.
#765
Sorry Tom, I don't have a working fuel gauge for the 1966. If you haven't posted a parts wanted ad on this site that might be worth a shot.
Pete, I have parts from a tilt tele column with a rim blow wheel that I suspect is either a 1969 or 1970, but I'm not sure. The steering wheel needs restored.
John
Pete, I have parts from a tilt tele column with a rim blow wheel that I suspect is either a 1969 or 1970, but I'm not sure. The steering wheel needs restored.
John
#766
hi kevin, on the off chance U wouldnt have any idea where I may find a dash mounted rocker switch, I have two (roof and antenna) but the roof switch "cooked" on my 68 Delmont 88. I'm uncertain if there is any cross overs between models. Thanks for any help!
Giles
Giles
#769
Hi Don
Yes I have some. It may be the weekend before I can get to them but I'll get you a price quote with shipping costs. I also recommend having them hot tanked and magged before shipping so we both know there's no cracks. John
Yes I have some. It may be the weekend before I can get to them but I'll get you a price quote with shipping costs. I also recommend having them hot tanked and magged before shipping so we both know there's no cracks. John
#770
doors/ETC
Is the 64 a post? May but the doors fixing what I have. Also I need the center chrome strip the goes all the way accross the hood and the left front fender chrome piece " hockey stick" that aligns to it. thanks.
#772
Hey John,
Would you happen you have a " Radiator Schrowd"
that bolts to the center top for my '65 Cutlass with A/C ?
Metal Piece that would only stop A tie from getting sucked into
the fan, mine is missing.
Thanks, Kevin
Would you happen you have a " Radiator Schrowd"
that bolts to the center top for my '65 Cutlass with A/C ?
Metal Piece that would only stop A tie from getting sucked into
the fan, mine is missing.
Thanks, Kevin
#773
Hi Kevin
Not sure if I have an extra one, but I'll dig around. In 1965 the piece that bolted to the top of the radiator was kinda small. You'd still have to be real careful under the hood with a running motor
Not sure if I have an extra one, but I'll dig around. In 1965 the piece that bolted to the top of the radiator was kinda small. You'd still have to be real careful under the hood with a running motor
#774
Dallas 75088. MY current doors are great except right along the bottom where the door skins meet the interior panel. So I need to weight the cost of RUST free doors VS the cost of buying replacements and shipping them.
#776
Kevin, I don't know if this would work for you. For some reason the previous owner cut it down even smaller than from the factory It will hold the radiator in place but doesn't do much to keep your tie out of the fan! If it would help you let me know your zip code and I'll get the shipping costs for you. This came off a stripped down F85 I bought that a previous owner used as a 1/4 mile car. I also have the dual quad setup for sale, but Joe P. mentioned in a previous thread that this model isn't the most efficient intake design. John
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#779
Hello stingger68
I'm not sure if I have an extra one or not but I'll take a look. There was a member in Utah I belive parting out a 1968 recently. Have you checked with him? Also, if you've not created a parts wanted ad yet that may be worthwhile. I suspect it would cost $75-100 to ship from Oregon to your part of the country. If you found someone in the Southeast with a decent fender that could save you on shipping. John
I'm not sure if I have an extra one or not but I'll take a look. There was a member in Utah I belive parting out a 1968 recently. Have you checked with him? Also, if you've not created a parts wanted ad yet that may be worthwhile. I suspect it would cost $75-100 to ship from Oregon to your part of the country. If you found someone in the Southeast with a decent fender that could save you on shipping. John
#781
drec02, are these the metal pads that bolt to the crossmember and have the rubber motor mounts attached to them? Are you needing ones for a small block or big block? I would also need your zip code to give you a shipping quote. John
#783
drec02, thank you for the zip code. Please provide more details on the parts you need.
I read through your other posts. It sounds like this is for a 350 motor. $15 to your door but it would be next weekend before I can dig them out. John
I read through your other posts. It sounds like this is for a 350 motor. $15 to your door but it would be next weekend before I can dig them out. John
#785
Kevin, I don't know if this would work for you. For some reason the previous owner cut it down even smaller than from the factory It will hold the radiator in place but doesn't do much to keep your tie out of the fan! If it would help you let me know your zip code and I'll get the shipping costs for you. This came off a stripped down F85 I bought that a previous owner used as a 1/4 mile car. I also have the dual quad setup for sale, but Joe P. mentioned in a previous thread that this model isn't the most efficient intake design. John
you selling the dual set up ?? if so PM me the price and ship quote to 61010 Byron,Illinois thru Fed Ex please
#788
Hi Chris83, sorry I don't have the parts you need.
Denis, I may have what you need but will have to look around some. I'm picturing the turn signal switch as being the piece inside the column that the blinker lever attaches to, is that correct? Have you met Ralph yet? He's a member of this board who also lives in Germany and has a 1965 442. John
Denis, I may have what you need but will have to look around some. I'm picturing the turn signal switch as being the piece inside the column that the blinker lever attaches to, is that correct? Have you met Ralph yet? He's a member of this board who also lives in Germany and has a 1965 442. John
#789
hello john
yes i´m in contact with Ralph and yes it´s the piece insite the column....but please forget the Turn signal switch before you invest to much time because maybe it´s better to buy this part new.....
sorry for my english
thanks
Denis
yes i´m in contact with Ralph and yes it´s the piece insite the column....but please forget the Turn signal switch before you invest to much time because maybe it´s better to buy this part new.....
sorry for my english
thanks
Denis
#795
john, I need for a 1965 cutlass v8 a set of 29? or 308 ring and pinon gears that are hopefully good and my rear end is a stock 65 with a new set of 355 from richmond gears they dont have any 308's or less, changing the car over for road trips thanks for your time ...jim
#796
Hello Jim
I wish you were closer! I do have a 1965 F85 parts car with rear end code SC. My reference book shows that to be a 3.08 open rear end. If you were closer I'd offer it complete for $75, but I think shipping it to you would add several hundred dollars to the price. way too much for a non-posi. I could pull it apart and ship you the ring and pinion for the same price, to cover my time. But I don't have the skills to know if they good or bad... unless I see broken teeth.
If you wern't needing to stay original, I do have what I believe to be a 2.93 posi rear from a 1965 Buick GS. I've looked inside and don't see any damage or rust. It wouldn't be cheap to purchase and ship, but at least it would be a posi with highway gears that should bolt up. Although I don't know if the u-joint and driveline length would be different than the Olds. Maybe Jim or Brian could help with that information. If your getting up in price it may be more cost effective in the long run to purchase a rebuilt unit from one of them. I'm thinking they're both in the Mid-West although I don't remember exactly where they're at. Just some thoughts and ramblings.... Let me know if you want more details on anything. John
I wish you were closer! I do have a 1965 F85 parts car with rear end code SC. My reference book shows that to be a 3.08 open rear end. If you were closer I'd offer it complete for $75, but I think shipping it to you would add several hundred dollars to the price. way too much for a non-posi. I could pull it apart and ship you the ring and pinion for the same price, to cover my time. But I don't have the skills to know if they good or bad... unless I see broken teeth.
If you wern't needing to stay original, I do have what I believe to be a 2.93 posi rear from a 1965 Buick GS. I've looked inside and don't see any damage or rust. It wouldn't be cheap to purchase and ship, but at least it would be a posi with highway gears that should bolt up. Although I don't know if the u-joint and driveline length would be different than the Olds. Maybe Jim or Brian could help with that information. If your getting up in price it may be more cost effective in the long run to purchase a rebuilt unit from one of them. I'm thinking they're both in the Mid-West although I don't remember exactly where they're at. Just some thoughts and ramblings.... Let me know if you want more details on anything. John
#797
john, I'd be interested in the 293, wish I knew more about this! was wanting to replace just the ring and pinon and keep my eaton posi which is pretty new or maybe someone could guide me though this, I cant see the car till this sat to ck about the sc dont know where to look. will be in touch soon, jim
#798
john I went to drive train and differentals and placed a question as what to do maybe someone there can guide me? heck I'd be willing to trade or sell my set up just to get better milage...jim
#799
I'm looking for the rear wheel well mouldings and the the drivers door moulding for my 1966 cutlass 442. I also need a coluum shifter lever and maybe some other items for my car. Do you have any of this or some leeds? I'm in Portland and would appreciate any help that you can offer. Thanks
#800
Arpster, I'll look around to see what I can find. I don't have a lot of 1966 specific parts. If you haven't placed a parts wanted on this site I'd encourage you to give that a try. John