Eastwood's Mulsanne Blue paint
May 31st, 2017, 12:19 PM
#1
Rodney
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,323
Eastwood's Mulsanne Blue paint
Has anyone used Eastwood's Mulsanne Blue Metallic paint as a substitute for #26 Viking Blue? Is it a good match for the Viking Blue? I'm rebuilding a '72 convertible and would like to stay close to the original color on my car but a little metallic in the paint would be nice. I'm not a painter (this will be my first car to paint) but I'm very detail oriented and ready to give it a go. Planning to do basecoat-clearcoat, I hear it's more forgiving if I f-up somewhere. Looking forward to comments.
Rodney
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mul...-1-gallon.html
Rodney
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mul...-1-gallon.html
May 31st, 2017, 07:58 PM
#2
Check out TCP global they mix older OE colors much chaper than name brand. The resto line of paint is supposed to be Like PPG's DBU. Its most definitely a relabled paint but many of the older colors are hard to get due to VOC content. I think since they sell paint ainly to hobbyist they can get away with selling higher VOC content paint.
I guess that brings me to my next question. Why eastwood ??? Eastwood is also rebranded paint many say Kirker some say sherwin williams. I used eastwood for my first layers of primer but finished with NASON primer ( axalta/dupont) .
To be honest i tried eastwood but its actually very over priced imo. My local Jobber sells dupont / axalta and carries a full line of transtar products.
My advice for the paint is do research but TCP has great reviews on quality and match.
As for other materials like sand paper / primer / etc etc. Make a list compare eastwood to a local supply store that will sell you product at shop rate. Many usually do.
Im spraying my car in PPG' bottom of the barrel line and the only solvent line i can get it in ( OMNI) the only problem is it has soooooo much clear binder that its very very transparent and there is painter tricks which im doing to aid this issue. But paint and clear im all in at about 400 using ppg's omni line and Nason clear.
I think you can buy a color chip book from eastwood BTW.
I guess that brings me to my next question. Why eastwood ??? Eastwood is also rebranded paint many say Kirker some say sherwin williams. I used eastwood for my first layers of primer but finished with NASON primer ( axalta/dupont) .
To be honest i tried eastwood but its actually very over priced imo. My local Jobber sells dupont / axalta and carries a full line of transtar products.
My advice for the paint is do research but TCP has great reviews on quality and match.
As for other materials like sand paper / primer / etc etc. Make a list compare eastwood to a local supply store that will sell you product at shop rate. Many usually do.
Im spraying my car in PPG' bottom of the barrel line and the only solvent line i can get it in ( OMNI) the only problem is it has soooooo much clear binder that its very very transparent and there is painter tricks which im doing to aid this issue. But paint and clear im all in at about 400 using ppg's omni line and Nason clear.
I think you can buy a color chip book from eastwood BTW.
Last edited by coppercutlass; May 31st, 2017 at 08:03 PM.
June 1st, 2017, 07:06 AM
#3
Rodney
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,323
Copper:
I talked with a local PPG supplier here in Houston about selecting paint for my project. After 30-45 minutes (in between answering the phone) the guy couldn't find Viking Blue from any of the numbers I gave him (#26, GM#WA4069, PPG#2213). So he handed me several late model color books and said to select a color from one of these books. I would like to do BC/CC so perhaps that is why he handed me the late model books.
I bought the Eastwood color chip card and compared it to an original color card I bought on eBay. Eastwood's Mulsanne Blue looks to be a close match to #26 Viking Blue but it's difficult to tell the color from such a small sample. I don't want it to be too light or too dark and there is a small window of tolerance for the shade. The PPG guy was telling me about Deltron, Nexa, Omni, Shop Line, Value Line, and frankly, it got very confusing and difficult to know what to choose for my project. Then there was the question of solvent-based or water-based. I don't mind doing a little leg work to understand the pros & cons of various products but when I asked the PPG guy what would be an easy product for a beginner to shoot, he suggest a top of the line, $600/gal paint and told me to but a really good spray gun - WTF.
I'd like to spend less than $300 for a good gun and looking at the DeVilbiss StartingLine or the FinishLine 4 gun set. I've got a good 60 gal compressor with filter/drier/desicant set-up for clean, dry air. I've heard really good things about SPI epoxy primers & clears so the plan is to spray epoxy primer over the bare metal before doing any body work. I checked out TCP Global's Restoration Shop line of paint; bascoat is $180/gal, reducer is $37/gal, 2K clear is $130/gal. Is this what you were recommending? Is there a metal flake additive that can be mixed into the paint for a little more "sparkle" or is it dangerous to experiment like this (especially since I'm a beginner)?
Thanks for your suggestions.
Rodney
I talked with a local PPG supplier here in Houston about selecting paint for my project. After 30-45 minutes (in between answering the phone) the guy couldn't find Viking Blue from any of the numbers I gave him (#26, GM#WA4069, PPG#2213). So he handed me several late model color books and said to select a color from one of these books. I would like to do BC/CC so perhaps that is why he handed me the late model books.
I bought the Eastwood color chip card and compared it to an original color card I bought on eBay. Eastwood's Mulsanne Blue looks to be a close match to #26 Viking Blue but it's difficult to tell the color from such a small sample. I don't want it to be too light or too dark and there is a small window of tolerance for the shade. The PPG guy was telling me about Deltron, Nexa, Omni, Shop Line, Value Line, and frankly, it got very confusing and difficult to know what to choose for my project. Then there was the question of solvent-based or water-based. I don't mind doing a little leg work to understand the pros & cons of various products but when I asked the PPG guy what would be an easy product for a beginner to shoot, he suggest a top of the line, $600/gal paint and told me to but a really good spray gun - WTF.
I'd like to spend less than $300 for a good gun and looking at the DeVilbiss StartingLine or the FinishLine 4 gun set. I've got a good 60 gal compressor with filter/drier/desicant set-up for clean, dry air. I've heard really good things about SPI epoxy primers & clears so the plan is to spray epoxy primer over the bare metal before doing any body work. I checked out TCP Global's Restoration Shop line of paint; bascoat is $180/gal, reducer is $37/gal, 2K clear is $130/gal. Is this what you were recommending? Is there a metal flake additive that can be mixed into the paint for a little more "sparkle" or is it dangerous to experiment like this (especially since I'm a beginner)?
Thanks for your suggestions.
Rodney
June 1st, 2017, 08:02 AM
#4
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 15,897
Rodney, if I were in your shoes I would be hesitant to experiment. I'm also a beginner to bodywork and painting. I sprayed my 71 98 and the door of my wife's 2011 Ford Flex by taking an auto body course at a local vo-tech.
Both of the paints I bought from a local auto body and paint shop. They gave me an exact match for the paint on the Ford Flex. For the Sandalwood paint on my 71 98 they helped me research alternative paint numbers and were very helpful. I ended up matching it to one of the color chips in their book. I think the color I ended up choosing was Dark Isuzu Brown.
The paint on the Ford Flex was bc/cc while the Sandalwood for my 71 98 was a SS. The bc/cc turned out better than the SS on my 71 98. However, they both look DAMN good. I guess I'm just too much of a critic.
Both of the paints I bought from a local auto body and paint shop. They gave me an exact match for the paint on the Ford Flex. For the Sandalwood paint on my 71 98 they helped me research alternative paint numbers and were very helpful. I ended up matching it to one of the color chips in their book. I think the color I ended up choosing was Dark Isuzu Brown.
The paint on the Ford Flex was bc/cc while the Sandalwood for my 71 98 was a SS. The bc/cc turned out better than the SS on my 71 98. However, they both look DAMN good. I guess I'm just too much of a critic.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jensenracing77
Paint
7
September 10th, 2014 02:33 PM
