I'm getting ready to paint my 68 Cutlass convertible. The painter suggested that I could save some money by doing some of the work that could be done by me rather than at the shop rates. Stuff like removing bumpers trim and badges. Most of that stuff is straight forward and requires no special techniques, but other things require a little tutoring from someone who has done it before. First is the molding that spans across the back of the hood. I see no fasteners and it appears to be either pressed on or glued on. How can it be safely removed without destroying it. Next is the long molding that goes full length of the car on top of the fenders, doors and quarter panels. There are fasteners on the ends and clips for the rest. I have a couple of molding removal tools both metal and plastic. Is there a technique to popping those off the clips without damage? If there is some kind of video around, a link would be appreciated. Finally, although I really haven't looked at the way it is attached yet, how is the long curved molding behind the convertible top fastened and are there any surprises back there. All of these parts are in excellent condition and this all original survivor deserves to keep as much as of it original bling. Of course, any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like you need a good buffing wheel and stainless rouge bars, There are videos on stainless restoration.

 

The answers you are looking for are in the 1968 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual.
1968 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual for sale | eBay
And the 1968 Fisher Body Manual
1968 Fisher Body Manual for sale | eBay

Original printed copies are best.

 

The trim at the back of the hood is just pressed on. A block of wood and judicious use of a hammer gets it off. The two pieces adjacent to it on the front fenders have studs and nuts. Getting those off is difficult with the fenders in place. This applies to most of the trim, by the way.

 

Thanks for your reply. I have both of those manuals. I'm kind of looking for actual experience and/or improved tools/techniques that may have been developed in the 50 plus years since those manuals were printed.

 

My reply didn't look as nice as I wanted it to. Forgot quotes are already italicized, and I didn't think colored font was nice, so I pulled the responses out on their own:

-Hood to cowl trim:
It's a pinch fit. Tap it off from underneath with a small piece of wood and a dead blow, a little at a time, starting at one end. You'll see it once it starts moving.

-Upper belt trim:
This is where it pays to be patient and careful.
Yes, remove the screws on either end. Find the plastic clips with the molding tools starting from one end. They are a foot plus apart. If one end gives you trouble, try the other end. Once it starts moving, it will be obvious. Gently work the bottom of the stainless steel (SS) off the plastic clips. It should pop out of the lip in the stainless. Keep removing the bottom of the trim. Don't try to do the top at the same time. It will eventually become evident once you get a few of the clips disengaged.
Study the profile of the new clips you will need to source. You have to get the right ones and get more than you think you need.
Re-installation kind of goes in reverse. Make sure the paint is well cured before re-installation. The trim pops back onto the trim clips, top to bottom. Gently. Study the clip and SS profile.Do a few dry runs with the trim on a table to get the feel of the engagement feel.
The rear quarter trim is expensive and hard to find. Be careful. Don't let it hang while you're removing it. Use blue tape to help support it loosely on the quarter, or get a helper to hold it.

Do you have the cast chrome ends on the front fender trim? Remove that first. Or at least remove the nuts. Work the trim off, starting at the front by the cast piece. Don't let it hit the floor. That will bust off studs and obviously damage the finish. Like Joe said, the nuts are hard to reach with the fenders on the car. In fact, you may want to start the trim removal operation with the fender on a table.

-Convertible well trim:
Here, I'm not as well-versed, having not removed one. I believe there are screws on the underside in the top well and possibly some clips. The vert guys will speak up. Mike, Randy....
A Fisher body manual is handy for dis/re assembly. Same for the assembly info manual...AIM.

Take a lot of pictures, record and measure locations of items such as window regulators, stops, and other fastener locations to help return them to their original positions before adjusting the windows. Note the witness marks left by the fastener.
There's tricks to sheet metal and window alignment and a proper order of operation.
Let us know when you're ready for that info.

Sounds like you need a good buffing wheel and stainless rouge bars, There are videos on stainless restoration.

Bottom line is if you meet hard resistance on any of the trim back off and reposition...its a labor of love.

FYI... It's much easier to read spaced paragraphs versus one big block, at least that's how I've been trained. Especially useful with old eyes .

 

It's been 20 years since I removed the pinch weld trim but I didn't remember it being that difficult. I think I made a tool.

When in doubt Google "chevelle convertible pinch weld trim removal"....lol There's a lot more information available on Chevy forums and a lot of the trim is the same.

The upper door peak trim can be tricky as you removed the fasteners at each end and then slide the trim to release it from the welded studs.

The rear upper peak trim is fastened at each end and then uses the press in fasteners for the rest. The reproduction fasteners suck. Save your originals

As Joe said, the front fenders are better done with the fender off the car, especially the nose trim. The rear of fender windshield trim pretty much can't be removed without the fender off the car. Fender emblems can't be removed unless the fender is off the car

 

I found that re-installing it after the paint job was scary as the new paint was thicker than the original paint, and the edge of the trim just started shearing the paint off as I attempted to push the trim on. It's been nearly 30 years, but I "think" I pried the trim open a bit so it went on without scraping the paint off.


Yep, there are screws along the length of the trim. I reached under the top opening to remove them.

 

On 68's there are also big clips that go over the pinch weld

These:

https://www.opgi.com/convertible-top...UaAuPNEALw_wcB

 

 

As Hairy Olds posted above, Section 11 of the PIM is a must-have for this work....

 

I've always thought so but i also endorse the whole manual.

 

Thank you for your very good and detailed information. I really appreciate it. It certainly will help me to "eat the elephant".

 

That looks like a page out of the Factory Assembly manual but much clearer and better printing. Where do you get one of those?

 

what is the PIM manual?

 

Product Information Manual....AKA Factory Assembly Manual

 

Send Hairy Olds a private message.
He sells them.

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...manual-187746/

 

Well thanks to everyone's help I managed to get most of the trim off without damage. Watching YouTube I picked up on the use of an old-fashioned beer bottle opener to help take off the long upper quarter panel trim molding which made it a snap to remove. The last thing to remove is the chrome trim behind the convertible top opening. I couldn't find anything in the shop manual, Fisher body manual, factory assembly manual and even the real crappy parts manual that I have to show what kind of fasteners they used and/or how to remove those parts. Like my wife says "just because YOU can't find something doesn't mean that it's not there". I certainly don't want to damage that perfect part while removing it so any help or advice is appreciated.

 

My 72 cutlass trim was attached I think in about 4-5 places using short Phillips head screws. Hard to see, and needed an offset type of ratcheting screwdriver. Using a small mirror on a wand made it visible and easier to understand. 68 model year may attach differently?

 

Completely differently