scottw32

hey guys, (first time car painter , so bare with me) i've been grinding away at 8 layers of primer and paint off of my 69. Having fenders, hood and deck lid in need of repairs, i need slow the process down to a manageable pace. With a few pieces in bare metal, is it ok to quick coat these panels in a cheap non etching primer to protect the metal? Then re sand with a DA and 80 grit before epoxy primer? I need to buy about 4 weeks or so. My shop is not heated and february in western new york can get cold. Plan on using Speedokote epoxy primer

ragz442

If you have the panels in bare metal I would put a couple coats of dtm 2 part epoxy on them. If you are talking about spray bomb lacquer primer because of the temps I'd make sure it all was removed before epoxy, sand wash off with lacquer thinner etc.

68442

Primers of any kind On there own do not seal out moisture . They are porous. They must be top coated. So, depending on your garage/temp/moisture situation, rust can form under the primer . Having said that you may be OK for 4 weeks?? The speedcoat is a good choice

scottw32

humidity is relatively low this time of year ( 30%). but with temps in 30's for the foreseeable future im not taking a chance on ruining my epoxy coat. March temps bump up to the 50's and are much more manageable. I have work to do on these fenders, quarters in the meantime

68442

Keep in mind also Catalyzed paints. Basically anything with a hardener Stops curing below 60 degrees + -.

Kennybill

This might interest you. A painter guy told me about an everyday products he uses but for the life of me I can remember but it "pickled" also and held up till you get back to it.

https://picklex20.com/metal-surface-preparation/

scottw32

interesting....ill give it a read thank you

Kennybill

I think this guy told me easy off oven cleaner. I remember something about it "pickled" also. The "yellow" cap is supposed to be lye, I think. Please, research it though.

coppercutlass

Epoxy buys you time. No way around it.

oddball

Since you're talking about a very short period of time, and plan on re-sanding anyway, yes, just fog whatever is handy on there. Rustoleum would be fine, too.

I actually left my car completely bare for 7 years with just a phosphate etch (no paint/primer/nothing, but it was garaged). Drove it like that, too. Got a tiny bit of surface rust in a couple of places that buzzed right off.

Bfg

I stripped a car down to bare metal back in the 80’s but wasn’t gonna get around to have it painted until the following spring and was told by an Old Timer to mix up a batch of baking soda and water to make a paste like substance and brush it on the car. It worked and didn’t get any flash rust on the car. Has anybody ever heard of this?

ragz442

If you are worried about it flash rusting I would use cheap spray bomb lacquer primer. If you use Rustoleum or any other enamel base primer it will be harder to remove. The lacquer primer will wash off with thinner if you have low spots, etc. Any 2 part catalized primer should not be porous, especially epoxy, there is just no UV protection. I've used Speedokote and it's decent for the money, but if you want it to last I would stick with one brand from primer to top coat. For the money, I've had good luck with PPG shop line.