Restoration Paints
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 453
From: Houston, TX
Restoration Paints
I am in need of some help with the proper paints for the various elements in the restoration process. The car being restored is a 69 442 with 400cu in motor and TH400 trans.
Paints needed for the following:
Motor
Oil Pan
Valve Covers
Intake
Rear Differential
Transmission
Frame
Under carriage (bottom side of floor pans)
Floor Pans
Firewall
Exhaust Manifold
Core Support
Steering Box
Power Steering
I know it is a long list but I am hoping various components can use the same paint. Appreciate the help.
Sean
Paints needed for the following:
Motor
Oil Pan
Valve Covers
Intake
Rear Differential
Transmission
Frame
Under carriage (bottom side of floor pans)
Floor Pans
Firewall
Exhaust Manifold
Core Support
Steering Box
Power Steering
I know it is a long list but I am hoping various components can use the same paint. Appreciate the help.
Sean
Proud Viet Nam Veteran
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,817
From: Rowlett, TX
Try Hirsch Auto at http://www.hirschauto.com/ Eastwood at http://www.eastwood.com/
Randy C.
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,348
From: Albany, OR
If you are looking for colors, here is what I used on my '68 4-4-2 convertible.
motor (engine block), oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold - bronze paint. I used spray cans. The engine should be painted with these parts assembled. This paint is available through almost any Olds business. I got my paints from either Fusick (www.fusick.com) or SuperCarsUnlimited (www.supercarsunlimited.com). As I recall, it took 2 cans to get good coverage on everything. I know I had much better coverage when I did it than when the factory did it.
rear differential and axle tubes, frame, undercarriage, firewall, core support, power steering - GM chassis black. I seem to recall the brand name for the paint I used here was Seymour. Again, spray cans.
transmission casing - originally bare metal. I have a THM 400. I painted mine silver so there was something over the bare metal without changing the appearance too much. I know some people who used a clear coat. Again, spray cans.
floor pans - mine were partially covered in a rust-colored primer, and not too well, by the way. Since I don't take the car out in the rain, I just left the floor pans the way they were.
exhaust manifolds - originally they were bare metal cast iron which rusts quickly. I bead-blasted mine and painted them with a high-heat cast iron gray paint (again Seymour brand as I recall). That was 7 years ago and they still look pretty good.
steering box - that was also bare metal. Since it is right out there in the open, I left it bare metal but coated it with a sort of cosmoline substance that has done a pretty good job or preserving its "new" appearance.
I had good luck with what I did - the car won "Best of Class" at the Olds Nationals in Reno in 2011.
Hope this helps!
Randy C.
motor (engine block), oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold - bronze paint. I used spray cans. The engine should be painted with these parts assembled. This paint is available through almost any Olds business. I got my paints from either Fusick (www.fusick.com) or SuperCarsUnlimited (www.supercarsunlimited.com). As I recall, it took 2 cans to get good coverage on everything. I know I had much better coverage when I did it than when the factory did it.
rear differential and axle tubes, frame, undercarriage, firewall, core support, power steering - GM chassis black. I seem to recall the brand name for the paint I used here was Seymour. Again, spray cans.
transmission casing - originally bare metal. I have a THM 400. I painted mine silver so there was something over the bare metal without changing the appearance too much. I know some people who used a clear coat. Again, spray cans.
floor pans - mine were partially covered in a rust-colored primer, and not too well, by the way. Since I don't take the car out in the rain, I just left the floor pans the way they were.
exhaust manifolds - originally they were bare metal cast iron which rusts quickly. I bead-blasted mine and painted them with a high-heat cast iron gray paint (again Seymour brand as I recall). That was 7 years ago and they still look pretty good.
steering box - that was also bare metal. Since it is right out there in the open, I left it bare metal but coated it with a sort of cosmoline substance that has done a pretty good job or preserving its "new" appearance.
I had good luck with what I did - the car won "Best of Class" at the Olds Nationals in Reno in 2011.
Hope this helps!
Randy C.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 453
From: Houston, TX
If you are looking for colors, here is what I used on my '68 4-4-2 convertible.
motor (engine block), oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold - bronze paint. I used spray cans. The engine should be painted with these parts assembled. This paint is available through almost any Olds business. I got my paints from either Fusick (www.fusick.com) or SuperCarsUnlimited (www.supercarsunlimited.com). As I recall, it took 2 cans to get good coverage on everything. I know I had much better coverage when I did it than when the factory did it.
rear differential and axle tubes, frame, undercarriage, firewall, core support, power steering - GM chassis black. I seem to recall the brand name for the paint I used here was Seymour. Again, spray cans.
transmission casing - originally bare metal. I have a THM 400. I painted mine silver so there was something over the bare metal without changing the appearance too much. I know some people who used a clear coat. Again, spray cans.
floor pans - mine were partially covered in a rust-colored primer, and not too well, by the way. Since I don't take the car out in the rain, I just left the floor pans the way they were.
exhaust manifolds - originally they were bare metal cast iron which rusts quickly. I bead-blasted mine and painted them with a high-heat cast iron gray paint (again Seymour brand as I recall). That was 7 years ago and they still look pretty good.
steering box - that was also bare metal. Since it is right out there in the open, I left it bare metal but coated it with a sort of cosmoline substance that has done a pretty good job or preserving its "new" appearance.
I had good luck with what I did - the car won "Best of Class" at the Olds Nationals in Reno in 2011.
Hope this helps!
Randy C.
motor (engine block), oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold - bronze paint. I used spray cans. The engine should be painted with these parts assembled. This paint is available through almost any Olds business. I got my paints from either Fusick (www.fusick.com) or SuperCarsUnlimited (www.supercarsunlimited.com). As I recall, it took 2 cans to get good coverage on everything. I know I had much better coverage when I did it than when the factory did it.
rear differential and axle tubes, frame, undercarriage, firewall, core support, power steering - GM chassis black. I seem to recall the brand name for the paint I used here was Seymour. Again, spray cans.
transmission casing - originally bare metal. I have a THM 400. I painted mine silver so there was something over the bare metal without changing the appearance too much. I know some people who used a clear coat. Again, spray cans.
floor pans - mine were partially covered in a rust-colored primer, and not too well, by the way. Since I don't take the car out in the rain, I just left the floor pans the way they were.
exhaust manifolds - originally they were bare metal cast iron which rusts quickly. I bead-blasted mine and painted them with a high-heat cast iron gray paint (again Seymour brand as I recall). That was 7 years ago and they still look pretty good.
steering box - that was also bare metal. Since it is right out there in the open, I left it bare metal but coated it with a sort of cosmoline substance that has done a pretty good job or preserving its "new" appearance.
I had good luck with what I did - the car won "Best of Class" at the Olds Nationals in Reno in 2011.
Hope this helps!
Randy C.
This is exactly what I was looking for! I will take the advice from a winning car owner anytime. Thanks
Sean
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 421
So many answers so many spray operations. I love this question even though I am not as qualified to answer it as some on this site. The chassis black had 3 different gloss levels from firewall to frame and to brackets as I understand. Paint the axle and engine as assemblies like the factory did. The bare metal parts from the factory, well... do you like the look of rust? Because that's how they will look before long (cast blast as suggested by rcorrigan5). And as far as the tranny goes I like natural finish, clear coat will not stick to aluminum forever. So have it glass beaded and make sure it doesn't leak. Now the trans pan is a diffferent issue because it is metal. Get a real solid orignal or fix the one you have and paint it. To achieve the best look you will have to experiment with spray cans or pay someone to match that finish. I painted my manifolds with high temp cast iron also and now they look reddish and burnt. A friend of mine had his coated to look cast and a year later they still look like the day he got them. I will be sending mine out as soon as I can be away from my car that long! Good luck! Nice ride!
Randy C.
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,348
From: Albany, OR
Yes, I've heard about the coating they can put on exhaust manifolds now and, from what I've been told, they hold up better than the high heat paint. I don't know of any vendors right now but I'm sure they would be easy to find with a web search.
Randy C.
Randy C.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 453
From: Houston, TX
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