Gixxere

I need to paint the inside of my trunk on my 72 cutlass. Below is a pic of it after me scraping and vacuuming it out. it still has a greasy layer of crap on it but im doing this all without air tools. Is there a product i can use to clean off this residue or a tool that i can attach to a regular cordless drill to clean it off som more before painting? my other question is do you guys recommend any particular paint or treatment over another or would any automotive strenght paint work. Thanks fo the help guys. this is my first major project vehicle. Not looking for show quality but still want it nice for me and the fam to enjoy.

Lady72nRob71

You seemed to have the worst of it off now by scraping. The round wire brushes used in your electric drill will work great, as long as your drill is over 1500RPM. Suck the dust with a shop vac often so you are not grinding it back in to the surface.

After all the loose stuff is out, use some simple green or some citrus degreaser. Pour it on full strength and scrub with a stiff brush. Soak up the dirty stuff with thick quality paper towels (like scotts rags on a roll).
Rinse with water (spay on and soak up) and repeat until clean.

POR15 or Eastwood's Rust encapsulator can be brushed or sprayed on the bottom when totally clean and dry. When the POR is almost dry (light tackiness) or when the Eastwood has dried an hour, it can be sprayed with the correct spatter paint for a stock look.

Gixxere

Thanks for the quick reply. I have been reading about por 15 and it looks like it is a pain to use. Is it a simple open and brush on deal or is it a two part product that requires lots of very tedious prep work. I am ok with either cause i few this as an excelent learning experience but i just want to know what im gettng myself into before i jump in head first.

cutlassgal

I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator spray on Teepo's trunk, then sprayed with the spatter paint from Fusicks.

Gixxere

Thanks i will look into that product as well. IS the eastwood and spatter paint product rattlecan or does it need to pe applied with a paint sprayer? I guess this gives me a reason to tell the misses i need an air compressor now............lol

Lady72nRob71

Eastwood's stuff is rattle can. If you can put the car outside and wear a good filter mask, I recommend the rust encapsulator. If this is your first visit to Eastwood, sign up for their newsletter first to get free shipping on your first order. You should get free shipping codes good for 30 days after each order.

The POR15 needs a bit better surface prep but can be brushed on right out of the can.

Gixxere

great i will look into both of thos products. the car runs and is drivable so moving outside is no problem. thanks for the advice fellas.

Lady72nRob71

Then i would go Eastwood. I think they have the correct color spatter paint for the top layer, too. Do a good job on that, then get the correct style mat and you will be almost show-ready!

Make SURE paint, surface, and air temp is between 70-85* for best results. Do nor spray when hotter or surface will be rough and chalky. Been there done that...

justinj

I did mine with POR15. I would probably use another product next time. POR15 is great for rusty / pitted surfaces, but not for smooth stuff. A couple of months after painting, I was cleaning up the trunk with a pretty weak power sprayer and it made some of the POR15 flake off.

cutlassgal

Just make sure you get the correct color spatter paint. It's different by years!

scott_442

Trunk respray is also on my 'to do' list. It was sprayed some time ago by previous owner but really needs to be done over. Any thoughts on if the process would be any different if spraying over existing splatter paint? Any additional prep work? Is the main purpose of the Rust encapsulator to prep the surface or to do as the name suggest? About how many spray cans are needed? Have thought about spraying it with a gun but not sure if the results would be any different. GIXXERE - keep us posted on your progress. Thanks!

Lady72nRob71

The nice thing about rust encapsulator is that it sticks well to bare metal, old sanded paint or primer or tight rust. Tough, too. I would recommend cleaning with their PRE stuff first if there is oil or grease. It is a strong solvent like naptha - makes you high in a hurry!
You can topcoat RE with most paints after an hour.

For repainting a trunk, I would just scuff sand it, clean away dust and oil then respray.

As for coverage, i think one can get by with one can of RE on the floor. One quarter of a can of RE did one good coat on my firewall. It has a high solids content.
One coat of RE then your top spatter coat should be fine.

Gixxere

Thanks for the tip Rob............hear n Nor cal that shouldnt be a problem. Whether seem to be pretty nice all the time ecept if its raining and i dont think were gonna see any of that for a while.

Scott...........I will definately keep you guys updated. Im ecited to start this project. Like i said before this is my first major build. Unfortunately for the misses, i see a lot of new tools in the garage instead of her new car.

archeryshooter

They sell it in a rattlecans at auto parts stores then shoot clear over it looks great por 15 seemed to work for me