Guys I'm looking to repaint my 72. My local paint shop gave me one hell of a price for the paint ., but its in the nason full thane single stage. I fully intend to clear it .,my question being is has anyone used the nason full thane paint line. I don't mind spraying single stage but I'm curious as to others experiences. I got quoted 270 for the full gallon set up.

 

I haven't sprayed the Nason, but just thought I'd throw a little input your way on the lower line paints, in general. Basically, in the high end paints, you are paying for color match consistency and coverage. With the cheaper paints, you may actually have to apply more coats to achieve the same coverage, and at the very least should probably use a tinted sealer. If you are considering adding clear on top of it, then you open a potential can of worms. With the higher build up of color and clear, the likeliness of die back can become an issue, as well as other problems, such as checking and flaking from the excessive thickness. "Less" is usually better when it comes to the amount of mill thickness of your final finish.


If you clear, then you sort of lose the cost savings benefit of a single stage. I would consider a decent quality base, over tinted sealer. You could potentially get by with just 2 or 3 quarts of color, and then clear, sand and buff. Also, keep in mind, if you intend to use a single stage metallic, with clear over it, you cannot scuff or sand between the two, or you will disturb the metallic, creating a likely mess.


Just some thought's.

 

I understand what you are saying. Half the car is already the same color and its good enough to top coat again. This color covers pretty good. The last time I painted it with activated basecoat no issues. I'm essentially using the single stage as base coat so minimal coverage and top coat finish ( paint smoothness) is not as crucial since its going to be cleared as long as the metallic lay out is good and its not blotchy or striped. I usually use dupont or ppg but with some of these older paints its hard to get the correct color. The only price I could get was in the nason line. I have the ppg formula code and I'm going to call on Monday so they can cross refrence it to get a price in chroma base. I use a lot of off brand stuff like transtar primers and clears and have been very happy. Even transtars paint line is very nice for a lower end line. I used it on 3 side jobs the price can't be beat and the quality is good. I did some major rust repairs on my dad's truck and I used all transtar products. 2 years later its stil holdning up no issues. I have cleared over single stage finishes before with no issues but I know stuff can still happen. I'm a bodyman by trade I paint stuff here and there I just have never used nason . I have used nason primers and clears just not color.

 

Sounds like you have it covered. I paint for a living, mostly pre-war. My mechanic friends will spend 15K on a motor, then want to budget 200 bucks for paint. I, on the other hand, will slick my cars out with high dollar paint, and just stick a giant cam in them. I catch heck because I don't match anything up, and just like the sound, lol!

 

I gotta budget across the board evenly lol. its gotta be fast, and look good . It does not have to be award winning but it has to look good. The first time I wrapped up my cutlass 7 years ago it looked great and people always complimented the paint and body work even if it was missing trim lol. The first time my friend painted it for me as I was still green in the paint dept. We used pgg's I belive dbu line which is activated base coat then we cleared with nason 2k select clear.

 

The key to have no tiger striping and modeling is gun technique. I have seen tiger striping in the best of Euro paints. Different paints may require altering gun technique.
Gun control is all about technique and technique is all about gun control.

Booth temp,car temp,humidity
Booth air flow and type of booth down draft,side draft all play rolls
spray cap size
Gun type
volume and pressure during application
reducer type and ratio/ viscosity
Gun speed /distance / triggering
color of primer and level of prep
All the above and more effect results of the final appearance of the top coat


Good luck hope it turns out well

 

I have never gotten tiger striping on anything I painted. but I usually do a test panel before I paint to make sure the paint has the needed psi. Lower end paints tend to be thin so I under reduce them with a fast reducer and maintain a useable air psi. I have found that if you try to lower the psi with lower end paints mixed per mfg. Suggestions they tend to look blotchy or you have heavy droplets. I'm not the greatest painter but I know how to get my self out of a jam. The hardest part is the roof imo I have done hoods with no tiger striping or blotchy metallic finishes . The sides are easier and can be more forgiving. This will be my first complete with a metallic paint. I have done fenders doors and blended adjacent panels with metallics but just not a complete.

 

When painting old school Acrylic enamel on the third coat we would go back and fog the panel that we had previously painted.

example just finished painting the door then moved on to the front fender finish the final coat on the fender.
At this point we would go back and fog the door then the fender.
Fogging is when the gun his held further back around 16" and the panel is given a mist/fog to even metallic out.

 

Yep I do the same with solvent and with waterborne paint its a must. It needs a control coat to make the metallics lay out properly.

 

Been using Nason for years never had any major problems on complete refinish,some odd newer vehicles you may have a match problem.Not a big fan of nason clear looks good but there is better clear.ive used Debeers and valspar here also with good results.I use Dupont waterbourne on new vehicles but i find a little pricey for doing a restoration on a 1947 international truck.I'll be painting this in Nason in the next day or two with Valspar Clear.Make sure you use a good gun and make sure it is squeaky clean.

 

I got a devilbiss tekna and I love it. I have been a fan of the nason clear for years. I have also grown fond of the transtar maxclear . Great shine and hold out with little to no shirnking once its cured.

 

I have not used Nason, im told its very transparent and needs more coats to get true color. However i love the Transtar clears. I shot the transtar clear over PPG on my Vette, sprays excellent and shines like a diamond in a goats ***. I also used it on a 71 Monte Carlo i built for my son, with the same nice results. It also sands a buffs very nice.

 

Im hoping since this nason line im using is a single stage I don't run into that issue with it being too thin and transparent since they tend to be thicker than regular base coat . Im going to buy a quart and see how it sprays on the inside of the fenders. I also have a hood here I can spray to see how it covers.

 

i've used the nason stuff and it works,does seem to need more to cover good.but i've been using dupont chromabase for ever and am used to it so prefer it even though it does cost more.