Getting ready to shoot Galleon Gold base/clear on my entire 70 442 (no vinyl top) . Using a white sealer coat. How many quarts of mixed material should I have for the job. I plan a couple of wet coats followed by a drop coat. I do not want to run out.

tc

 

If you are doing the jambs add a qt but a gallon of mon sprayable would be enough. Wouldn’t hurt to have extra for future insurance.

 

x2, gallon non sprayable should leave a bit for a future touch up, Heaven forbid.

​​​​​….

 

What product/ paint company are you using? Ppg or? I have the same color and year 442..why the white sealer coat?

 

Hi Andy, Using Nason "Ful Base" / Select Clear. Using a white epoxy primer as my sealer coat because I already had a partial gallon on hand. I like using epoxy primer as a sealer coat because it provides protection on places that I've sanded through to bare metal. Otherwise, I would need to use a separate primer on the these spots before shooting an acrylic sealer.

Although I've painted several of my own cars, this is only my second metallic job. My first was 30 years ago and a complete disaster due to my inadequate gun. This a different animal for sure. Maybe I'm just intimidated and worried about mottling or striping, but I ended up using 6 quarts of paint which thinned to 9 quarts of mixed material. I did shoot both sides of the trunk lid as it was replaced. I'm sanding clear now.

 

if you buy the paint in quarts,get a gallon or bigger can,mix all the quarts together,so the color will be uniform. seen guys run thru 1/2 gallon,mix another half and the color isnt the same

 

Oldolds88 has good advice and write a note on the leftover can you used the white sealer.

 

Definitely post some pics when done..love to see it, My car is one repaint lacquer, going to do some touch up on it because it’s such a survivor..I had fixed some rust on front fenders so I sent a sample out to TCP Global to use the paint code along with color match..Its not a close enough match so I just sent it back, they are going to try to get it right..I sent a couple more samples..obviously this will be in acrylic lacquer so I can blend into the current lacquer paint.

 

I will post some pics when I get it where I want it.

Depending on how old your lacquer is, you may have a very difficult time matching it for a blend out. The metallic size on old school paint was noticeably smaller than what is used in modern paints. In fact, at a distance of 2 feet you cannot even see individual flakes. In modern paints you can see individual flakes even from 5 or 6 feet away. Another difference is that the old lacquer was lead based. Modern lacquers have no lead and this affects durability.

Granted, these cars will not see the same road use these days, but these factors will complicate getting a good match.

Good luck,
tc

 

Thanks, not overly concerned about the blend, having tcp global color match a sample..hopefully close enough to blend nicely. Car was repainted in 1987 acrylic lacquer, paint manufacturers stopped using in lead in 1978 so I should be ok on that front..

 

Here is a couple of teaser pics. This has been a drama filled experience. First was trying to get a decent match to the color that was on the car to start with. I went two places to have the paint scanned and was successful at neither. Camera malfunctions...apparently Gold metallic is hard to read. Next up was to match it with color cards. The card that was the closest was a color called "Riverside Gold"

Perhaps there is something about the way I shot the color, but this turned out too dark for my liking. This wasn't a total loss of effort however as I decided to use this as my stripe color. I sanded the whole car again with 600 / 800 paper being careful not to break past the clear. This was no small effort.

Next was to make some adjustments on the paint formula. Basically just left the small amount of black out of the equation. This was much better, but still not a perfect match to Galleon Gold. I finished shooting with what you see here at 2:00 AM this morning. I have some dirt to sand out of the clear, as my homemade booth wasn't ideal. I will post some more when I finish buffing and get the trim back on.

tc

 

Looks great, good job.

 

Looks nice, more nugget gold than galleon gold, but beautiful none the less. I sent a metal sample out to TCP global to color match my Galion Gold 70. They mix it to paint code 58 and said it was right dead on, when I got it back and spray the card out it’s not. I’ve now sent it back and they’re gonna try to fix it with more samples from metal I cut out that still had paint on it. My car was painted once in 1986 in lacquer, and it’s a little bit lighter than true Galleon gold.. so hopefully I get it back here at some point correct so I can blend it. I don’t wanna paint the whole car. The darker color is what they sent me, the lighter color is whats on the car.. as I said hopefully they can get it much closer so I can blend a couple fender patch panels I welded in And a rear outer wheel lip and outer wheel lip skin that I weld it in. The darker color they mixed I believe is correct for code 58 Galleon Gold..Howerever asked them to color match my sample and they didn’t so hopefully they’re fixing it

 

this is my car, this lacquer was shot in 1986, very very close to galleon gold, but a tiny shade lighter..which could have been gun pressure.

 

Galleon Gold is code 55. Burnished gold is 58. Your car looks closer to Burnished Gold than Galleon Gold to me.

 

You are 100% correct, the mind is the first thing to go..😌. Mine is burnished, like my brain🤣

 

I've never claimed to be fast.... 7 months after shooting the car, here it is in all of it's cut and buffed glory. (or something like that). There is an "off the rails" easter egg somewhere in these pics. When you find it, don't give it away.

 

Looks fantastic…the ghost stripes are cool. Well done brother.

 

Looks great.

Hope mine looks this good.

I'll have to go back and re-read the complete post.

I'm still nervous about spraying metallic lacquer with a HVLP gun. I sure don't want stripes on most likely my last car.

BTW, didn't 1970's Cutlasses have the hair remover extension down in the middle of front of the hood? Did you just attach it to the grills some way!

Really sharp,
OLE442

 

Thanks, I was pretty nervous as well. I used a Harbor Freight Black Widow. It worked great for me. Watch some "Paint Society" videos on you tube. Base/Clear materials today allow Novice painters to work above their pay grade even in a homemade booth. I'm not sure I would have the kahunas to do a whole car in single stage metallic lacquer.

As for the the head knocker removal, I made an angled bracket and riveted it to the hood latch support and then fastened the tooth to it. It is all easily reversible with new hockey sticks. I may start a new thread on the mod someday.

Yeah, you found the Easter egg....

 

Looks fantastic to me. I dig the subtle stripes.

I’ve been in the paint business for 26 years and I’ve seen professional painters do worse. A lot worse.

 

Late to the party, but I agree with all that's been said. I like the ghosting of the stripes too.