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I'm wondering if anyone has tried the Eastman roll on primer. It gets good reviews. I had my 69 Cutlass stripped and painted 2 years ago and was never happy with the outcome. It needed a bit more attention paid to the body work. Just a few waves and ripples here and there. I have blocked the entire car out and feel fairly confident that with a high build primer, some guide coat, and blocking it out, it would be good. At which point I would have a shop paint it. I could spray the primer but the roll on system seemed like a good possibility. Any thoughts?
Personally using a roller to paint a car just smacks of Joe Dirt to me. More importantly, I'd take care to only use products proven to be compatible with the paint system already on the car. Mixing and matching paint products is asking for problems under the final coat.
I don't disagree with your thought. That's why I'm curious if anyone has tried it. It would be urethane primer over urethane paint that has been sanded out and then sanded out again prior to repainting.
Last year I blocked it out with 400 and it was a huge improvement. But ultimately I wasn't happy and blocked it out with 320 & 400. Using a long board and a flexible one for curves. The imperfections are really small at this point. I took a straight edge and a piece of paper and only in one spot could I slip it out. I do have a few high spots that will have to be knocked down a hair. The hood was by far the worst place on the car. Other panels didn't have high spots and just enough low spots that when you looked at an angle you saw the variations. Even if the car was shot at this point it would be a huge improvement. But with what I have invested anything but almost perfect is not longer okay.
Steve
Am I wrong thinking a high build primer would level out a majority of the slightly low spots? Like I said they don't even seem to be the thickness of a piece of paper. Maybe I should just keep sanding some of them?
The car had been painted at least a 1/2 dozen times and some of it came off in sheets that you could almost measure the thickness with a ruler. They used sanding discs to strip it. I have wondered if the heat from sanding may have caused the surface fluctuations?
You are correct that high build and feather filler primers are used to perfect small imperfections. This would not include large waves or ripples as noted above. Primer, block, repeat over and over until you are happy. Many use guide coat as well before blocking. I think many (including myself) are skeptical of how well primer put on with a roller will level out. If there are deep ruts between the paths of the roller, it kind of defeats the purpose of using a high build primer as most of the primer may need to be sanded off just to get the imperfections out from applying the product before you ever touch the imperfections that you were trying to fix in the first place. I have heard of people using it, and I am not saying it will not give you the results you want, as I have never actually used it. I however would want to see the results of a product like this IN PERSON. Paint/ body standards of what is good, great, or perfect vary widely among the opinions of different people. A person who has used the product and raved about it online may have much lower standards than you, and it is very difficult to judge quality from pics or even video. If you are okay taking a gamble with the cost, and don't mind doing a lot of work to get back where you are right now (assuming it does not work out) then I would say to try it on the hood to see the results for yourself.
Last edited by Loaded68W34; February 27th, 2021 at 10:14 AM.
Thanks for the feedback. I wondered as well about possible roller marks. The guy on the video is no doubt a master at using this product. I've got some other things to take care of first so I'll have some time to chew on it. Very nice Toronado!!
320/400 are finish grits. Not grits that would level out the waves I see in that hood. If you want it flat your going to need to get on it with a long block and at least 180 grit. 80 grit and starting over would be better but 180 would be a compromise. 400 would ride most of those waves instead of cutting them out. If you want it flat as you say the 400's not gonna do it.
Do a guide coat like Loaded68 mentioned.
If you do enough high build primer you would get those spots out but your putting more material on when the hood looks like it could be cut down more.
If you do go the high build route then start blocking with 180.
In hindsight I agree I should have gone with 180/240 and saved myself some work. I decided to keep on sanding and see where it would go. I got probably 90% of the low spots out. The car feels like glass, super smooth. I'll pick up some courser paper and keep going. I don't believe I need a high build primer at this point. There are a few spot that are a touch high that I will tap down. Hopefully shoot the car next week and guide coat it after that. Thanks for the feedback.
This is the only paint job on it, it was stripped prior to this one. Which i can see now if they had blocked it out prior to painting I probably would have been happy with it.
If you want it nice you will have to run a round or two of high build even though you think you might not. This would be after you guide coat it and 180 it.
The finer grits didn't help you. May look or feel flat but it probably isn't because those grits ride the wave instead of cutting.
When I do a car like yours I would 80 fill lows or work out high spots, guide coat than 150 or 180 than prime with a high build primer like feather fill. 4 coats. Now guide coat and 150, re guide coat and 240, now I would re prime with a something like ppg k38. (Softer primer) guide coat than start with 240, guide coat than 400. If solid color your ready for sealer and paint. If going metallic I’d go 600 wet. Seal and paint
thanks for the step by step process. Is it easier to do metallic in BC?CC that single stage. I was told that's the case?
Steve
I would definitely do bc/cc for metallic. Little more forgiving. Easier to repair. Your not really supposed to sand and polish a single stage metallic Jon as it will cut the tops of the flake and make it look different. So if you get a run or try to sand out orange peel. Your panel will most likely look different from each other.
I'm wondering if anyone has tried the Eastman roll on primer. It gets good reviews. I had my 69 Cutlass stripped and painted 2 years ago and was never happy with the outcome. It needed a bit more attention paid to the body work. Just a few waves and ripples here and there. I have blocked the entire car out and feel fairly confident that with a high build primer, some guide coat, and blocking it out, it would be good. At which point I would have a shop paint it. I could spray the primer but the roll on system seemed like a good possibility. Any thoughts?
Steve
Pretty much any primer can be rolled on. 10 or so years ago the epa rolled out a set of laws known as 6H that pretty much prohibits us from spraying anything outside the booth. So the industry adapted by adopting rollers for priming smaller repairs where masking it and consuming booth time isn’t practical. This is not a new concept, just clever marketing.
Interesting you don't hear more about using that method. I am anything but bored and no where close to finishing. I went through paint and interior 2 years ago but was in a hurry to get it on the road. Needless to say I am not happy with the outcome and have pulled it apart again to do it right.
Interesting you don't hear more about using that method. I am anything but bored and no where close to finishing. I went through paint and interior 2 years ago but was in a hurry to get it on the road. Needless to say I am not happy with the outcome and have pulled it apart again to do it right.
Steve
it’s great for spot repairs, I actually prefer it over spraying primer, however when I need to do whole panels, I still mask it up and spray it. When you roll a large area you end up with a texture equivalent to a paint job with a heavy orange peel. It’s just not pleasant sanding that out.