Eddie Hansen

I was set on using PPG primer, but as I was searching to see about metal prep for flash rust, I came across many articles/threads saying there is better primer out there than ppg since they have changed the formulae? ( no chromates etc) in the interim, I did buy some eastwood spraycan 2 part, and it really is two part epoxy as you have to puncture an internal cylinder, and mix the components and you have a 48 hour window for usage, but now I would rather use a spray gun is PPG still the primer of choice? anyother recommendations? I need to have some interior paint mixed or I could go with a spray can but I would rather not. any thoughts? and another question anybody know body shop and paint supplies open on the weekend in Jersey?

steverw

I have used DPLF numerous times, i think its ok primer. It was better long ago but the EPA made them change the formula, or so i was told EPA. To me the PPG shopline epoxy is the same as DP. DP has gotten very expensive, around 300 for a gallon setup. I have read alot of people like the Eastwood epoxy, i believe it comes in quarts or gallons. I havnt used it. I have used SPI epoxy and im not crazy about it. Dupont probably has something, maybe someone else will give an opinion. Ill keep using Shopline for now.

Eddie Hansen

Thanks Steve, why aren't you happy with SPI, I have never used them, but I was researching yesterday and they got great reviews on primers and clears, they don't make many basecoats though, just curious, I understand eastwood is made by Kirker, I bought their two part epoxy in a can ( you puncture the activator) it looks ok, but only time will tell and this was just to keep some flash rust off the car.

steverw

I also read the good reviews and thought i would try it, although some said they had problems with separation/ fisheyes. I tried it and did get a few areas of fisheyes, but that was ok cause i still had to spray my 2k high build to block it out. I do think the epoxy is on there to stay but i cannot chance using it for my final sealer coat before base coat, though fisheyes could be sanded out, that would be more work. When i shoot color I plan to do it ASAP after the seal coat goes on. I really havnt had separation issues with DP or the Shopline epoxy. I talked to the SPI Rep and it sounded like he was blaming the separation issues on their water base Pre prep and possible moisture in the air line, which is possible. But again I dont want to chance adding more separation issues to the mix. Others swear by it so, each to his own, and good luck with your project.
Sorry for the delay in my response, I had been up in Plano to a funeral of a family member, and just saw your post tonight.
Steve

Eddie Hansen

Thank you steve and my deepest condolences for your loss

rwlarson

I have been a PPG shop owner for 18 years and have sprayed PPG products all of my chareer. (50 years),yah I'm 64 and still enjoying it. I have been using Medallion Rubber Seals epoxy primer for about 3 years and it is a superb product. It is the same as the old DP epoxy. It's a 1:1 mix so it is a true epoxy (not 2:1 like DPLF). By the way, Lf means lead free and yes it was the EPA. The medallion is better than the LF and about 1/2 the price. Check their web site for a rep. near you as it is for shops and not in stores that I'm aware of.

Eddie Hansen

Thak you mr larson another question, I wasted a day off traveling to a ppg dealer, for the interior dash paint, on the phone he was mixing a single stage flat and a single stage semi gloss, drove the
Hour and change just to find out he was selling me lacquer sob I could have bought the lacquer literally 3 minutes from my house I was pissed! The guy told me he called the ppg dealer and it wasnt available (!my local guy I am talking about) so i traveled only to hear the same thing, I went back and bought the lacquer from my local guy and it is an exact match will I be alright spraying this over 2k epoxy primer? Or should I spray a lacquer primer over the epoxy? Or am I sol?

rwlarson

Hi Eddie, you can apply it over 2k if you want. if you are using the 2k to fill imperfectioms and things go ahead but the thinner the layers of paint the better. you can put the lacquer over the epoxy directly if the surface is smooth enough. The more layers ot paint you apply the greater the chance of failure and chipping. Allow each layer to cure and LIGHTLY sand or scuff(scotchbright) just to break the shine and allow the next layer to adhere.

Eddie Hansen

Thank you sir