Ok so I'm at the point where I'm getting ready to paint my frame. So I was planning on sandblasting it, priming, and then painting it. But I recently came across some products like Eastwood rust encapsulator or rust bullet. If I did Eastwood would I still need to sandblast and how we'll would it hold up and the same for rust bullet. Or is there a better primer and like an epoxy paint that would work better. Thanks

 

I realize this post was a while ago but i see there weren't any replies. First and foremost when painting and dealing with rust. you always want to make as much of the rust go away as you possibly can no matter what before coating it. So IMO i would say sandblast the frame. after you've sand blasted it and cleaned it up with thinner and wax and grease remover, i would apply a product called POR15. I cannot remember the manufacturer of it for the life of me but POR15 is a rust inhibitor, a very good one. After you've applied the POR15 i would apply a self etching primer and then i would follow up with a single stage black, Im assuming your painting the frame black? Anyhow the single stage is a sturdier coating for a frame. hopefully this helps

Cody

 

POR is designed to go over rust. If the frame is sandblasted there is no need for it.

I did a frame in the mid 80s, it was dipped by RediStrip and then primed with a self etching primer and then shot with a two part black top coat. It still looks great.

 

There should be no reason to prime after the POR15. POR15 has a chassis black to use over the POR15. This stuff is good but do not get it on you. You literally have to wear it off your skin.

 

"This stuff is good but do not get it on you. You literally have to wear it off your skin."

As my friend used to tell me when I got that PVC glue on me...................."It gives you something to do while watching TV"

 

What are your goals with the finished car? If you went to the work of taking it to the bare frame I would not use POR. You need to blast, prime, and paint or blast and powdercoat.

 

Varying opinions i suppose. If you ask me, you can never have enough protection. Especially when dealing with rust. Why wouldnt you safeguard yourself with extra coatings? Especially with the limited time it takes to apply the products. Jensen i do agree powdercoat is certainly the way to go above anything else but it is expensive.

 

In my area the primer and paint that is good quality was going to be $600. The powdercoat was $200

 

The best thing to do is have the frame acid dipped and E coated. The Ecoat process completely covers the frame inside and out,acid dipping gets rid of the rust inside and out. Then if you arent satisfied with the finish (pitting etc) you can paint the frame. This is the most bullet proof process that you can do. Its not cheap but neither is multiple coats of primers and paint or redoing it because the inside of the frame wasnt covered and the rust is creeping around to the outside.

Greg

 

I wish powdercoat was cheap around me lol. Id have everything powdercoated.

 

I was originally going to sand blast it and then paint it but I lost my access to a big sandblaster. So right now I'm thinking just clean it up as best I can with a wire brush on a drill or something and then using eastwoods rust encapsulator. Anyone have any experience with this product? Or should I go with por 15? Thanks

 

Back in the day(5 years ago or more ) I was a distributors rep for industrial and architectural coatings, we sold a product for bridges or anything ferris that had to hold up in severe weather. The product that lived the longest and was the easiest to apply and took most any top coat was called Rust Destroyer or at least the retail version is called Rust Destroyer. I still have a few gallons that I use when working on frames and such, it's the best I've ever used. It's a single stage product that after 72 hours will take any epoxy or hot solvent top coat or you can leave it as sprayed or brushed and it will hold up to UV, salt or when exposed to elements with out a top coat. Seen any red oxide bridges lately? probably was Rest Destroyer.

The part that makes it unique is that it has both a encapsuler and a chemical rust converter from red oxide to black oxide This is not found often in a one part product. And no I don't make anything off the sale of this product any more........Just my experiences ...Your milage may differ....Tedd

 

I went the wire brush/POR route on my frame with good success. Not show quality but for a nice driver it is great. The POR is tough stuff. I tried to scrape it, beat on it, spilled brake fluid on it etc to test it out. It takes a beating. Follow the directions for prep from POR carefully. 1 drop of water will ruin a whole can! As others have said wear gloves as this stuff will not come off.

 

My opinion. Have it powdercoated. If the frame is not too pitted you will be very pleased. Even, and durable. To por 15 looks to o shiny and amateur like. It screams "I used to be rusty" .or if you wire wheel it good you can brush on some rust encapsulation , like permatex brand. The rust turns black and then etch prime it. Then if it's pitted I'd use a filler primer,sand out the pits and top coat. I guess you have to decide what type of restoring this will be. From now on its powerboat frames for me. Beautiful for a high dollar look and less mess

 

x2 permatex makes a good rust inhibitor as well. I believe they offer it in both brush on or rattle can as well.

 

get frame sandblasted. cover with good epoxy primer. then use duponts industrial grade polyurethane paint. I work in a shop where we specialize in big trucks and this how we do their frames. the DuPont ind grade is about $70 a gallon plus you will need a quart of activator(for black. other colors are higher). Wear a mask when shooting this stuff and use a gun with a 1.4 tip. good luck

 

X2 on the epoxy on a sandblasted frame. Ecthing primer is for bare metal i dont think its necessary here. PPG DP primer is a very good epoxy primer buts its not cheap. I think its the DP90 thats a semi gloss black. It guarantees a 100% moisture barrier. Im sure there are other good epoxys that are cheaper. PPG is good but their prices have gone through the roof. Most auto paint stores that sell ppg also sell Shopline paints which i think are good. Look at TCP Global online. I used an acrylic enamel on my old Honda Accord it came out good and it was cheap...... less than 300 for the paint, reducers, and hardner. They also have epoxy primers. Enamel paint is very durable, more so than laquers or urethanes.

 

Man-o-man there is 50 ways to Sunday to do this..."resto"

Here is my $.02

-What is the end result you want? This IMO determines what and how far you go and the products to get there.
-Take the time to draw up an outline on a spiral notepad. I start at the end result and work backwards. The I sit on it, edit it, rethink it, tweak it.
-Then pic your spot and work it out.

Now, I ain't anywhere near getting my car anywhere close yet but, I know I want a driver. Tearing my car all the way down to blast and powder coat the frame is out but I do have my front clip off. There are dozens of angle grinders, DA sanders, Rust Inhibitor products out there to say...start at the front frame horns and work back. Drop the suspension and blast those components and paint those etc..Anyway this is my road and believe you me, I have some solid knowledge, and a more solid network of men who know more than I do, have the skills to to what I cannot do and I am doing this on a budget too. There is most definitely more that 5 ways to skin a cat, right?

 

I'm not sure I trust POR15 anymore . I've seen it peel from antifreeze laying on it for a period of time , but battery acid didn't touch it . Go figure .

 

I've seen POR15 hold up in some situations , but not in others . I think maybe an epoxy or powdercoat would be best .

 

just go to Oreillys,get their house brand epoxy, mix with activator,reduce 10-25% and spray it on. this will act as a non sand sealer and paint Dupont Imron industrial as soon as it is dry to touch.

 

I'm not looking for a show quality paint just a driver. I was going to sandblast and use the ppg dp90 but have since lost my access to a sandblaster and I don't think I want to go through messing around with powdercoat. I'm just looking for something that will spray on nice over wire brushed frame and seal it up good. Thanks for all the suggestions so far

 

Ok heres what I did. I am going to pull my body off but havnt yet. Before i decided this I cleaned the frame firewall forward, with wire brushes on my 4.5" grinder. Had to use several brushes but it worked great. then i degreased the frame thoroughly then primed it with DP90. Then i painted it with cheap Rustoleum Enamel from Lowes?, maybe it was Walmart. It thins with acetone. It sprayed on extremely nice and I let it dry for a couple of days. It looks great and the enamel is durable. I used semi gloss black. I only did firewall forward but ill do the rest of the frame the same when i get the body off. The DP epoxy is the key to making it durable. Probably any epoxy will do, some are cheaper than DP. Tractor Supply also sells well..... tractor paint. Enamel some here have said its tough stuff too and you can get a hardner for it. Its CHEAP! compared to name brand, so is the Rustoleum.
Steve

 

Ok so I'm planning on spraying probably either the rust encapsulator or por 15. The only problem is the I would have to get a big enough air compressor and make makeshift booth. So I was wondering I I would be better off using a rattle can of either products or brushing it on. For spray can I heard it doesn't come out as thick and doesn't have as good as coverage and would the brush look sloppy? Thanks

 

You can brush POR15 and it will look fine. You do not want any POR!5 overspray on anything because it will never come off.

 

Maybe brushing is the way to go for me as long as it looks half way decent. I realize I won't be able to brush everywhere so maybe I'll still spray a little bit. But if I brush it on do I need to add any hardener or reducer or just put io on straight out of the can? Thanks

 

Straight out o the can. Be sure to wear long sleeves and pants and rubber gloves. Put a tarp down under the frame. You do not want to get this stuff on you. It will never come off.

 

I used POR-15 this stuff is indestructible. I sand blasted then etched it and then por-15.

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