Can anyone give me the straight scoop on converting to 134A. I have read a great deal about what does and does not have to be done, and frankly it is all over the map.

Specifically, do I need to simply flush the system or should I replace the drier, lines, and o-rings. Also, I believe that this vintage A6 compressor is set to run all the time when engaged. I see that Year One sells an updated POA valve that allows the compressor to cycle. Is this a good / needed upgrade?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I want it to work, but don't care to break the bank with stuff I don't need.

Thanks

Jay

 

My experience is that POA systems don't like 134a in a straight conversion. It will probably work better with a POA valve calibrated for 134a and set up for a cycling clutch. 1976-78 Rivieras used an A6 with cycling clutch and worked fine, but they DID use R12.

Is the system currently functional enough that you can tell what if any components might need replaced?

For best results, yeah, you should flush the condenser and evaporator (which invariably means removing it from car) and replace the refrigerant lines. Even though current wisdom says the old lines will have enough oil layer inside to stall 134a leaks, 134a will find any small hole it can to leak out of.

Replacing the drier is a matter of course any time the system is opened to atmosphere for more than a few minutes.

And I don't care what that damn Kyoto Protocol claims, I don't see where R12 has/had/will have any effect on the ozone layer. I will believe till I die that it was a PR campaign by DuPont to push use of R134a since the R12 patents were set to expire, and they could no longer collect royalties from its manufacture.

Do you think other countries have slacked up making and using R12?

 

If you want to save yourself a lot of work, have better cooling than r134 will give you put freeze 12 in it you do not have to change anything but the freon . I have used freeze 12 for several years now it will not leak out in cold weather like r134 it cools like r12 . They have a web site www.freeze12.com check it out.

 

just be careful using freeze 12 it has propane in it they will tell you it does not if you have a hose leak it canspray on the exhaust manifold and start fire

 

It certainly sounds like the freeze 12 option would be the least expensive...at least for a round one try. I am not too jazzed about the fire issue . The conversion sounds like it might be more problematic - and costly. If you change the POA valve to the Year One version for 134A will the current compressor then cycle? It reads like the valve retrofit might accomplish this....

 

I have heard of many satisfied customers who have their original POA valve rebuilt by Classic Auto Air in Florida. They will calibrate it for the freon of your choice. I will be going the R134 route, since I will have the whole system pulled and sent to them for rebuilding. After then I can assemble it myself and charge it myself cheaply.

I have heard mixed feelings about the cycling clutch for A6 compressors, so I do not know who to believe on that. Bat as mentioned, if the Rivs used it, then it may work... Did the Rivs use the superheat switch or the low-pressure switch in the compressor??

 

Classic Auto Air is in Fla. They know all about a/c and are very helpful if you give them a call.
http://www.classicautoair.com/

 

Thanks for setting me straight onthe location; I updated my post.
They are not the cheapest, but they seem to be able to to restore all of your OWN parts to like new condition. I talked with them last year and they were very knowledgable in discussing their resto services.
I am guessing this route would be better than buying a whole set of foreign-sweatshop-made repro and replacement parts, wondering about fitment issues and such. Just think - that costly labor can stay in the US!

One option is their sanden compressor conversion kit to replace the GM A6 compressor...
I like the idea of less power needed to run it (and less resulting belt slapping), but will it cool adaquately?? This would be beneficial on long trips I plan to make.
However I do not like the non-stock looks and HATE the idea of a jap part on my American classic... Therefore I will probably just stick with the A6...