Torqueline

I am trying to sort thru conflicting information.. I want to install a hydraulic throw out bearing and mate it to a hydraulic master cylinder..

The confusion lies in the clutch...

Mcleod is telling me that I need the 10.5"clutch but my clutch that I removed is a 9.5"

Can I install a 10.5" in place of this 9.5"
Any insight woudl be great

Thanks

young olds

I don't believe the flywheel and pressure plate will hold a 10.5" clutch disk. Also I'm unsure if you can even get a clutch that Big for a ten spline input shaft. I never looked at my throw out bearing on a 62 but if the diameter of the surface that makes contact with the pressure plate is the same I don't see why it couldn't work. If you don't mind me asking why do you want to go away from mechanical linkage?

Torqueline

I do not like the bell crank design and all the clutter and grease mess that is associated with the linkage.. So while I am switching to the hydraulic actuator, I figured I could remove some more clutter with the hydraulic bearing..

This car is going to be a full restore AND an everyday driver for me.. So I am doing what I can to make it more reliable , clean, and still more powerful..

Adding A/C, taller coil springs, Electronic ignition, and bigger tires..to name a few..

The engine is from a Rover so it has some advantages over the original 62 block plus I am going to be pushing 300HP (hopefully)

joe_padavano

Welcome to the world of Y-body cars. Expect to get erroneous information about them from most vendors.

I doubt anyone at Mcleod has ever seen a 1961-63 F-85 and certainly has no clue as to what clutch size came stock. The clutch diameter is irrelevant as far at the HTOB is concerned. The only thing that matters is that the height of the clutch fingers is within the allowable range for the HTOB.

Torqueline

Thanks for the input Joe.

I understand that..But I was considering installing a completely new diaphragm style clutch vs rebuilding my old one..

If a 10.5 will fit, I think it would be better??

Do you think I can get the 10.5 in there?


I also have another engine question..

When I pulled out the original engine (after I got it running and it made some noises that I could not pinpoint or have even heard before)

I tore it down and was expecting to find something obvious that would relate to the noises heard when running.. I found nothing.. in fact, everything looked good.

One thing that I found odd (here is the question) is that it appears that the only thing that keeps the cam from sliding out of the block (forward) is the distributor gear? Meaning.. Once I removed the distributor, the cam would slide forward.

So, should there be some sort of retainer to hold the cam from movement?

Thanks in advance

joe_padavano

A larger clutch will have greater holding power. Do you need it is the real question. I don't think this will fit in a stock bellhousing. It might fit in the D&D aftermarket bellhousing. In any case, you'll also need to have your flywheel drilled for the larger bolt pattern, and there may or may not be enough meat on the flywheel to get sufficient edge distance on the holes.


Unless you plan to run the engine without a distributor, this is a non-issue. It's how the engine was designed and no retainer is required.

oldcutlass

The lifters also keep the cam from floating around the flat tappet lobes are cut at a slit angle and the lifters ride around 2/3 on the cam which allows them to spin. Between the lifters and the distributor the cam stays in place.

1970-W30

I'm using a 10 inch clutch in my 63, with a stock throw out bearing and a HD 9 spring "long" style pressure plate only because that's what the flywheel was drilled for. It's housed in a factory bell housing. I don't think it would have any problem with 300 hp. The red dots show how far out the pressure plate hold down bolts are from the edge. All the other holes are for balancing purposes.

Torqueline

Great info. Thanks guys..

So, you mention the flat tappet lobes.. I have not yet picked out a cam for the engine..

So, do I need to order a special type cam? Remember this is a Rover 3.5L engine that I have built (if it even makes a difference?)

I just checked into buying anew clutch and my parts store does not even list one..
Any idea on where to get a new clutch or at least have mine rebuilt?

Thanks again

1970-W30

Finding a stock new 63 Cutlass clutch assembly is almost impossible, Phoenix Friction Products came up with a 10" pressure plate, part # NCA0779 for my trans swap with the disc coming from Speedway.......I believe the pressure plate is used on early Ford pickups. Best thing to do is to call Phoenix Friction with the flywheel at hand so you can give them the dimensions they'll need to come up with a clutch for you.

Torqueline

McLeod tells me that they can rebuild my old clutch and install a diaphragm pressure plate.. So I think I will have them do that..

Still wondering on the Cam? Do I need a specific type cam?

Thanks