Just did some major work to my 64 Starfire had the gas tank rebuilt and mechanical rebuilt from Fusick fuel pump installed, as well as a pertronix ii points eliminator. Updated the coil, plugs wires, New dist cap. She starts right up and runs pretty smooth. However on a cold start she’ll start right up and if I don’t set there and pump the accelerator she’ll quit. If I pump till the idle smooths out, all good. But if it stalls out, then takes forever to get started again. Since her updates, I’m sure she’s probably dealing with some old junk somewhere. But I think the choke might be off a bit. The one other thing is if I pull out from a stop to quick or something she struggle just for a second. Looking for some general tips, advice etc. things to look for notice.

 

Right now she has valve covers and an air cleaner from a62 maybe. No PCV valve, however I do have a valve and a 64 air cleaner except it’s painted black that’s not installed. About to install new rebuilt wiper motor and washer pump. I will have to order the reservoir.

 

You might be on the correct track suspecting the choke needs an adjustment. I'd run down a really simple list which may help to identify/resolve the hesitation issue. I'm not certain which carburetor you have mounted, but I'm suspecting it has an air horn and base (2GC?). Anyways:
(1) Consider replacing the two carburetor gaskets. The one where the air horn meets the base plate, and the one where the base plate attaches to the manifold. They could be allowing air to enter or they're super saturated with gasoline. Ensure the carburetor is torqued to specifications.
(2) The accelerator pump contained w/in the carburetor might need replacing. It's a simple deal. The rubber grommet goes bad and doesn't form a good seal.
(3) Ensure you have your A/F mixture screws setting to the highest achievable vacuum. The preference is to use a vacuum gauge.

All in all - you might consider buying a carburetor rebuild kit.
Perform a mild tune-up if you have already replaced plugs, rotor, contact points & distributor cap. (1) Set Dwell, (2) Set timing & (3) Adjust A/F mixture screws to highest achievable vacuum. These must be performed in the exact order: (1), (2), then (3). GL

 

Sounds like choke and or accelerator pump - rebuild the carburetor and do all the settings per the FSM.

 

Thanks for the tips. She has a4 barrel Rochester. I’ve never messed with the choke, however my mechanic’s dad when testing out everything did mess with the choke some. I’m not exactly sure what he did. Are there any good tutorials for someone like myself for adjusting at least the choke, till I can get the time, etc. to do the rebuild?

 

Probably the best source of info on adjusting chokes will be found in the 1964 Oldsmobile Shop Manual ;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...963+oldsmobile

Here's a thread on re-building a 4 GC ;

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...c-carb-127376/

 

Thanks I have the shop manuals was able to adjust the choke this morning. I have a couple little questions. One is, when you set the fast idle screw on the lowest notch of the fast idle cam, should I have to hold the throttle valve open while setting that?” What happens is I think the choke releases a bit too quick. When I operate it cold the fast idle screw comes up and lands in the highest plane of the cam. It seems in no time it Is already to the second one. Once it’s warmed up and I drive able a mile or two to the garage and check it again. The screw is completely off the cam, but as it cools down the cam and screw coming back together. That’s what is happening. Could I turn the choke to put a little more tension on the spring?

I did install my new windshield washer moter and pump today. Waiting to hook up the pump
until I can get a reservoir and new washer hoses. The wipers work great now.

 

Yes, indeed. A bit of noodling with the choke spring tension will help you get a feel for the amount of choke required. This often changes from hot summer days to cold winter days where minor adjustments are often necessary.

 

So far after getting about 20 inches of vaccumme and setting the slow idle around 850 900 she runs great when warmed up and going. I even went on a super extra test drive over the river and through the woods. All great except for that little bit of hesitation after coming to a complete stop and going again. Especially if there is a hard turn involved. The other thing is the stalling out during choke period, and once after I ran into a store for about 15-20 mins. What happens is that it’ll start at a good strong idle and immediately quit. Then it takes forever as she tries to start. I’m on board with rebuilding the carb, I’m thinking of trading mine off though to someone who rebuilds them or has one rebuilt already. I have no doubts that I could do it, matter is when. I have a plan for changing out the valve cover gaskets and belts, so I can make that all one job. I have a pretty busy work schedule (tattoo artist). It’ll already take me forever just to re install a new carb, valve covers gaskets and belts. I also need to check out the heater core because it is disconnected. And there’s a whole list lol.
I’ll have the parts to finish my wiper pump installation this week. Any tips with that would be great. Or links to good threads.

 

I rebuilt the carb on my 63 twice. Biggest problem solved the first time was a bog fixed by a new accelerator pump but I had the same problem of hesitation after a right turn. On the second rebuild I paid a lot more attention to the settings and found out the floats were not set right, fixed that and never had another problem.

 

Got the new rebuilt carb, it’s Awesome!!!!! Only thing is I still got to hold the pedal a little and give it a little gas on start up. I’m thinking it needs to idle higher at start up. Do I just need to turn the fast idle screw to increase the cold rpms. Warm rpms looking good in the 850-1000 range

 

I would assume that the 850 to 1000 RPM was in park ?
Yes , turning the fast idle screw in will increase the fast idle .
Do you have a dwell / tach meter ? Or are you going by the tach on the console ?

 

Turned the fast idle screw maybe a quarter turn not even a half turn. She fired right up and ran at around 1100 1200 rpm without me have to keep my foot on the pedal. It was about 45 degrees outside. I was able to walk away while she warmed up. Btw my carb was bought rebuilt from a place called carburetor exchange. Not cheap but for a
novice like me. It was nice to see what one of these is “ supposed” to operate. Everything else has started working better too, even in the electronics department. Or at least I feel like I’m noticing that.

 

Yes that idle speed is in park. And yes I’m using the console tach.

 

The reason I asked was because those tachs aren't very accurate below 2000 RPM .
But , if you're happy with the way it runs , then it's all good .
Warm idle speed should be 650 RPM in drive .

 

that seems about what it’s showing when in gear. It’s really been amazing what a difference this made. She’s been starting right up. Should the idle kind of creep up a little bit when warming up, to be released by a quick step on the gas pedal?

 

The idle creeping up should be the choke increasing idle. Yes, a rapid step-down release on the accelerator should disengage the choke and return to normal idle.