POA valve testing and calibration
June 21st, 2014, 06:46 AM
#1
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POA valve testing and calibration
A few of us were looking for this info a while back. Seems legit.
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=16311
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=16311
June 21st, 2014, 07:45 AM
#3
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Nope, that's the right one, the valve just looks different without its outer case.
Here's the other thread that I've found with significant information on this subject.
There are other bits of information out there, but these two threads seems to have everything important in one place (okay, two places).
- Eric
Here's the other thread that I've found with significant information on this subject.
There are other bits of information out there, but these two threads seems to have everything important in one place (okay, two places).
- Eric
June 21st, 2014, 08:03 AM
#5
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So you connect everything and it reads 28-32 for R12. Then turn the screw 1/4 turn CCW. That's it? No reading for the new pressure? Seems there ought to be a target pressure when set for 134A, not just 1/4 turn.
June 21st, 2014, 08:14 AM
#6
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If you look at this picture, you can see he has a breaker bar and long extension sticking out of where the adjuster screw is:
(Incidentally, this picture shows how to check the valve without removing it from the car).
- Eric
June 21st, 2014, 08:15 AM
#7
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This is what I see....
[IMG]
[/IMG]
And in the diagram I don't see anything that would be a screw. But it does look like if I turn that nut ccw it would release pressure on the bellows.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]And in the diagram I don't see anything that would be a screw. But it does look like if I turn that nut ccw it would release pressure on the bellows.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
June 21st, 2014, 08:19 AM
#8
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The screw and locknut are inside the valve, deep in the hole.
If you look at this picture, you can see he has a breaker bar and long extension sticking out of where the adjuster screw is:
(Incidentally, this picture shows how to check the valve without removing it from the car).
- Eric
If you look at this picture, you can see he has a breaker bar and long extension sticking out of where the adjuster screw is:
(Incidentally, this picture shows how to check the valve without removing it from the car).
- Eric
June 21st, 2014, 08:20 AM
#9
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Open the high side and listen to the POA go "pop". the low side handwheel is closed and stays closed. Read the pressure on the low gauge. Should be 26 for 134a and 29 for r 12.
That's why I said that thread was the other useful one.
- Eric
June 21st, 2014, 08:22 AM
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June 21st, 2014, 08:27 AM
#12
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Hmm, that might be why the CSM says the valve is non-repairable and non-adjustable.
June 21st, 2014, 08:37 AM
#13
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Chineseium gauge sets are cheap, and should be good enough for occasional use.
In your case, an old R12 set may be available very cheaply at a flea market or yard sale.
They're very good to have.
Cursed CSM!
- Eric
In your case, an old R12 set may be available very cheaply at a flea market or yard sale.
They're very good to have.
- Eric
June 21st, 2014, 11:52 AM
#14
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That valve is adjustable also. I would be more concerned about the rust you see down in there.
Last edited by banny; June 21st, 2014 at 11:56 AM.
June 22nd, 2014, 03:33 PM
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June 22nd, 2014, 03:51 PM
#18
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June 22nd, 2014, 04:25 PM
#19
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1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW for a guestimate.
It would be best if you could rig up a test set like in the picture.
More info on testing can be found here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...2-cutlass.html
It would be best if you could rig up a test set like in the picture.
More info on testing can be found here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...2-cutlass.html
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