POA valve testing and calibration

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Old Jun 21, 2014 | 06:46 AM
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POA valve testing and calibration

A few of us were looking for this info a while back. Seems legit.

http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=16311
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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On further inspection, this seems to be a different POA valve. My bad.
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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Nope, that's the right one, the valve just looks different without its outer case.

Here's the other thread that I've found with significant information on this subject.
There are other bits of information out there, but these two threads seems to have everything important in one place (okay, two places).

- Eric
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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But I'm not seeing a screw with a locknut. Just something that looks like a very small nut. I'll check out the other thread. Thanks Eric.
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:03 AM
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So you connect everything and it reads 28-32 for R12. Then turn the screw 1/4 turn CCW. That's it? No reading for the new pressure? Seems there ought to be a target pressure when set for 134A, not just 1/4 turn.
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
But I'm not seeing a screw with a locknut. Just something that looks like a very small nut. I'll check out the other thread. Thanks Eric.
The screw and locknut are inside the valve, deep in the hole.

If you look at this picture, you can see he has a breaker bar and long extension sticking out of where the adjuster screw is:



(Incidentally, this picture shows how to check the valve without removing it from the car).

- Eric
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:15 AM
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This is what I see....

[IMG][/IMG]

And in the diagram I don't see anything that would be a screw. But it does look like if I turn that nut ccw it would release pressure on the bellows.

[IMG][/IMG]
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
The screw and locknut are inside the valve, deep in the hole.

If you look at this picture, you can see he has a breaker bar and long extension sticking out of where the adjuster screw is:



(Incidentally, this picture shows how to check the valve without removing it from the car).

- Eric
Oh, deeper in there. Mmmkay.
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by brown7373
So you connect everything and it reads 28-32 for R12. Then turn the screw 1/4 turn CCW. That's it? No reading for the new pressure? Seems there ought to be a target pressure when set for 134A, not just 1/4 turn.
Read the third post in the thread that I posted after yours:

Open the high side and listen to the POA go "pop". the low side handwheel is closed and stays closed. Read the pressure on the low gauge. Should be 26 for 134a and 29 for r 12.
R12 is 29psi, R134 is 26psi.

That's why I said that thread was the other useful one.

- Eric
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:22 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
This is what I see....

[IMG][/IMG]
Ahhhhhhh... Methinks you have one of the non-adjustable ones.

Apparently there are more non-adjustable valves on later cars, but it's really kinda random.

Maybe time for a junkyard run....

- Eric
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:26 AM
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I have to be honest, I don't have a setup for testing. I just want to get to the screw that turns 1/4 turn ccw
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Ahhhhhhh... Methinks you have one of the non-adjustable ones.

Apparently there are more non-adjustable valves on later cars, but it's really kinda random.

Maybe time for a junkyard run....

- Eric
Hmm, that might be why the CSM says the valve is non-repairable and non-adjustable.
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 08:37 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
I have to be honest, I don't have a setup for testing.
Chineseium gauge sets are cheap, and should be good enough for occasional use.

In your case, an old R12 set may be available very cheaply at a flea market or yard sale.

They're very good to have.


Originally Posted by Macadoo
Hmm, that might be why the CSM says the valve is non-repairable and non-adjustable.
Cursed CSM!

- Eric
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Ahhhhhhh... Methinks you have one of the non-adjustable ones.

Apparently there are more non-adjustable valves on later cars, but it's really kinda random.

Maybe time for a junkyard run....

- Eric
That valve is adjustable also. I would be more concerned about the rust you see down in there.

Last edited by banny; Jun 21, 2014 at 11:56 AM.
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Just remembered the replacements were also adjustable but a pita because you cant calibrate it with the air and gauges attached like you can with the originals
Old Jun 22, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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You just turn the nut - that is what I did.
26psi is a good target for 134a.
One of these years I will get my AC system finished...
Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
You just turn the nut - that is what I did.
26psi is a good target for 134a.
One of these years I will get my AC system finished...
1/4 turn then?
Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
You just turn the nut - that is what I did.
26psi is a good target for 134a.
One of these years I will get my AC system finished...
I keep checking....
Old Jun 22, 2014 | 04:25 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
1/4 turn then?
1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW for a guestimate.
It would be best if you could rig up a test set like in the picture.
More info on testing can be found here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...2-cutlass.html
Old Jun 22, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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Well we all know MAW. I'm introducing a new one; GEFN (good enough for now)
I'll start with a 1/4 turn. I'm guessing it would be better than nothing.
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