The AC didn't work in my 69 Cutlass when I got it so I had it charged, it had been updated to the new freon, and it blew a nice 45 degree air, for about a week. The evaporator coil has a leak and will need to be replaced. I watched a youtube video for a 69 GTO as it was the closest I could find. It gave me a close idea what I'm in for and looks like a lot of work. I looked in the CSM to see if it covered the removal and I didn't see anything. Is there a step by step or video out there showing how to do this? I will need to replace the heater coil while I'm at it.
thanks,
Steve

 

The evap core is on the outside heater core is on the inside, You only need to remove the engine side of the case ,I replaced mine in my 1970 Rallye 350 start to finish in about 2 hours the evap core came from the parts place exact match to the original G,M.

 

Thats really good news
thanks,
Steve

 

Yup, key is getting access around the engine to remove that half of the evap case. It's OK if you have a small block, much more of a headache with a big block.

Remove the liquid line and expansion valve, remove the POA and all its attachments, remove the engine side of the evap case, pull it out. Reverse. **Use new green o-rings!**

Get 3M strip caulk to seal the evap to the firewall and case, case to firewall and case to case.

 

Well I've got a BB, either way it sounds easier than I was thinking. Another item to add to the winter project list.

thanks

 

Did you have to remove the inner wheel arch to get at the lower nots?
Steve

 

I didn't need to but you are working by feel only. total of 7 bolts 2 studs.

 

Just so I'm clear, the heater core will require removing the under dash section?
Steve

 

no it will not. If you p.m. me we can exchange numbers and I can enplane the steps needed.

 

Replacing just the evap coil only requires removing the engine side cover in the engine compartment.

Replacing the heater core requires removing the inside heater box. Note there are long studs that go from the heater box through the firewall with nuts on the engine side. A good look at the assembly manual is very useful here.

 

How did you make out? I need to do this now on my 1969 455 and the engine side cover will not clear and come off. I saw another post saying remove it with the entire box.

 

I was able to remove the cover by itself but I did replace the heater core as well. So I took both sides off. The nut on the firewall nesr the distributer was difficult. I think I tied a string to a wrench so when I dropped it I didn't have to go under the car. I also would up removing the wheel arch so I had more access. I was all very tight and difficult to get at some things but I was able to do it.
Steve

 

Thanks I found the same and a post that said remove the cover so today I am going to unbolt the fender side too. either remove or tilt out far enough to pull and replace the coil. Yes the lower right side is nearly impossible, great olds design engineering LOL.