what is the best way to handle the convertible top/ frame.

the top hasn't been down in years.
i managed to get the front clamps to release.

i would imagine it's probably rusted and bound up fairly well, at least in one spot where there was a hole in it.
so i am resisting the temptation to power up and press the button. (plus i don't have an ignition key)

any tips would be appreciated.

 

Well if it won't go down or you don't want to chance putting it down, there's really only one option. Remove the rear seat, remove the side panels to expose the lift cylinders, unbolt the lift cylinders at the frame, remove the bolt on each side of the mounting hinge, then lift the top/frame off the vehicle. It will take 2 people for sure, one on each side, and maybe a third up front. I have removed the folded top by myself, but with it up I think it will be too large and unstable for a single person.

 

should I be able to manually close it?
do I need to release hydraulic pressure somewhere?
would the removal of what is left of the fabric help?

I tried lifting the front a bit but it resited and i did not want to force it

 

You can lower the top manually if you disconnect the lift cylinders; otherwise, the hydraulic fluid will prevent movement of the mechanism.

 

I had a similar problem with my 65 except it was in the down position. I unbolted the cylinders as Fun71 suggested. I lubed all the pivot points. I eventually rebuilt the power top motor. The top goes up and down as it should. The only thing it needs now is new fabric. It was fairly straight forward to rebuild the motor. My cylinders were in nice condition.

 

Trying to remove the convertible top frame,
Took the three bolts out of each side, and the frame moves.
It seems it is still attached somewhere,
The back bow seems to be holding it back.

What am I missing?

 

I am waiting to see an answer myself that is my next removal.... I understood it is just the three bolts each side, you have it all detached from where they staple in the back right?

 

I am waiting to see an answer myself that is my next removal.... I understood it is just the three bolts each side, you have it all detached from where they staple in the back right?

 

The rear roof trim stick tucks under the back of the body and you should maybe fold the outer curved parts inward for clearance. On a '68 there were multiple bolts through the trim stick to hold it in place, but I have taken '70's apart without bolts. Stick your head under there and have a look. Take a light in with you. Try to slide the whole roof forward to get clearance.

 

I have to get an extra pair of hands, other than the wife's .... I yell too much for that.
I have found an earlier post https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...estions-61947/
It seems I have to lift the front to get the back trimstick down do that it will clear the back edge.
I pb blasted the pivot points hopefully I didn't miss any.

I'll update this when I can get the darn thing out.

 

cool beans brutha That will be awesome

 

the 69 use a sngle piece trim stick, that is bolted on each side. Once that is loose, it can be removed by flexing it up out of the body.
The bolt to the trim stick is hard to reach / view. If I can find a pic, I will post it.

 

on each 3 bolt hinge, at or near the top, is where the trim stick bolts into. The bolt is hidden, but has to be removed to lower and remove the trim stick.
I know the photo is not great, but it is all I could find in my files. Follow the arrow in the photo, and you see a hole behind the flat arm. That is where the bolt is.
Wish I had a better picture.
tim

 

Thank You Sir

 

Finally got strong pair of hands to help
I managed to hold the front high enough to release the pressure on the trim stick, while my buddy yanked each back corner out.








strange are the trick stick bolts supposed to be partially screwed in?

 

Does the body show signs of screws being installed where the trim stick sits? Does the trim stick have signs of being screwed to the body? Is the roof original to the car?