New member!
#1
New member!
Hello everyone, my name is will. I just became a new member. I bought a 1967 cutlass with a 330 v8 automatic transmission. Floor pan was rusted out. Entire car condition was okay. I have had the car about a year and have slowly began the restoration process. Going to post pictures. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Hi welcome aboard, Im Steve and im building a 67 442. Theres alot of guys here with unlimited knowledge of the Olds cars. If you have mechanical skills, tools, time and money you have it made. Show us some pics please.
Steve
Steve
#3
Welcome to the site, Will. Sounds like you got yourself a cool project there. Those '67's are nice! Good luck with it.
What are your plans for the car? Restore back to stock? Hot rod it up a little? Do tell!
What are your plans for the car? Restore back to stock? Hot rod it up a little? Do tell!
#7
Pictures as of today.
The trunk pan had a few holes in it. I am on a budget and not restoring it to Barrett Jackson quality so I removed the bad rust and fiber glassed it. I POR the entire firewall and trunk. I am not restoring it back to original though it did come with motor and transmission. I use to race asphalt latemodels in the ASA South East series. So I am putting the race motor in it. It is a Chevy 350 bored .30 over, so a 355. Its going to have a dry sump oiling system, dart heads. Transmission is a 4 speed Muncie 4 speed. Please don't hate the motor not being original. Just thought it would add a nice spice to it.
#9
Very cool Will! Looks like you've gotten a lot done already (in a nice work area, I may add). No worries on the motor choice, you won't get grief from me. There's a lot of power to be had from a SBC and it'll cost you far less than building a SBO. Good luck with it!!
#12
Thanks for the warm welcome everyone. For the oldsmobile experts. Looking at the original pictures of my car is there a way to tell if the car was a vynle top or hard top. I'm not an expert on Oldsmobiles by no means. I stumbled across the car. Also the original instrument cluster panel is plastic and is cracked in a few places. As well as the studs that's bolt into the back of it are broke. So only half of the studs are usable. Does anyone know where I can get a new one or a company that can restore the original one?
#14
Thanks Eric, I will get a picture of it loaded tomorrow when I get home from work. I viewed all the pictures of your car. Excellent looking car. Motivates me to keep working on mine.
Will
Will
#16
Thanks for the warm welcome everyone. For the oldsmobile experts. Looking at the original pictures of my car is there a way to tell if the car was a vynle top or hard top. I'm not an expert on Oldsmobiles by no means. I stumbled across the car. Also the original instrument cluster panel is plastic and is cracked in a few places. As well as the studs that's bolt into the back of it are broke. So only half of the studs are usable. Does anyone know where I can get a new one or a company that can restore the original one?
As for another instrument cluster panel, either post a "parts wanted" ad on this site or check places like YearOne or Fusick. If you post an ad, make sure to get a good pic of what you have that's broken. There lots of folks around this site with big stockpiles of parts.
#17
There are quite a few members on here that can help with the instrument panel replacement and other parts requirements. Ron Roth does a great job of restoring the 67 panels. Post a parts wanted ad for any parts you may need.
#18
Thanks guys I will post a parts wanted thread and take detailed pictures. I have the data tag picture but it won't upload right this moment. I have lots of questions about things mainly cause nobody where I'm at knows anything about oldsmobile. In regards to a wiring harness what are the best options. Keep in mind I'm putting different motor that's going to have msd box and coil. Manual transmission instead of automatic. My theory motor wise is wiring it up like a race car being that's what the motor came out of.
#21
I used a Ford style starter solenoid mounted above and just to the left of the RH valve cover and added a battery cable from the horn relay to the solenoid. It served 2 purposes, allowed the use of the stock starter harness (mounted the old harness tube to the back of the block)and gave me an extra power source. I also used a 30 amp aux relay triggered by the exising resistor wire to supply full battery voltage to my HEI and the solenoid feeds the HEI during cranking to ensure a solid start.
#23
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Your cowl tag should have 5 information columns that will help further identify some of its options.
#24
Eric: okay that's a possibility for me. Im going to lay the old wiring harness out make sure everything is still usable and then move from there I just got motor mounts in to sit that motor in and so I can start figuring out throttle and clutch. Putting a hydrolic clutch in it instead of the old fork style.
Dent: in regards to the 330 I just have it sitting there haven't put much thought into it due to my plans with the car. Thought about rebuilding the 330 as well and put it in storage just in case I want to take it back original.
Allan: great information thanks. I was talking to Eric trying to get the data tag uploaded. But for some reason my tablet won't upload pictures have to use a laptop and it's never with me. I will look at the VIN and see what numbers are in it and get another look at the tail lights.
Dent: in regards to the 330 I just have it sitting there haven't put much thought into it due to my plans with the car. Thought about rebuilding the 330 as well and put it in storage just in case I want to take it back original.
Allan: great information thanks. I was talking to Eric trying to get the data tag uploaded. But for some reason my tablet won't upload pictures have to use a laptop and it's never with me. I will look at the VIN and see what numbers are in it and get another look at the tail lights.
#26
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I have that same problem using a tablet. I prefer to use my PC also. Here's a picture tutorial of the 67 Cutlass vs the 67 Cutlass Supreme. Note the side moldings and tail ights. Basically the bodies are exactly the same, it's the trim packages that make them different.
Cutlass 33617 side trim
Cutlass 33817 side trim
Cutlass tail light/backup/bumper
Cutlass Supreme tail lights/bumper with back up lights
The Cutlass (and Cutlass Supreme) sedans were also available in Hardtop models. Here's a pic of a nice one. Based on the info already provided, can you tell what it is? Cutlass or Cutlass Supreme?
The other model that was popular as a coupe was the 'Club' or Sport coupe. It basically has all windows encased in framing as seen in this picture:
Just another tidbit of info for you - in 66/67 only the Cutlass Supreme coupes were offered with the 442 package.
Cutlass 33617 side trim
Cutlass 33817 side trim
Cutlass tail light/backup/bumper
Cutlass Supreme tail lights/bumper with back up lights
The Cutlass (and Cutlass Supreme) sedans were also available in Hardtop models. Here's a pic of a nice one. Based on the info already provided, can you tell what it is? Cutlass or Cutlass Supreme?
The other model that was popular as a coupe was the 'Club' or Sport coupe. It basically has all windows encased in framing as seen in this picture:
Just another tidbit of info for you - in 66/67 only the Cutlass Supreme coupes were offered with the 442 package.
#27
Thanks Eric and Allan. Here is the data tag that is located on my firewall. Any information yall can tell me about it?? Thanks for the pictures the do help I will have to look at it when I go back out there. The motor mounts that came in Appear to be working, have not got the motor mounted yet but appear that we are in good shape.
#29
[QUOTE=Allan R;754455]
The Cutlass (and Cutlass Supreme) sedans were also available in Hardtop models. Here's a pic of a nice one. Based on the info already provided, can you tell what it is? Cutlass or Cutlass Supreme?
Thread hijack.....
Those hubcaps are from a '75 Chevy Malibu Classic Station wagon....not a good look, IMO.
Thanks for all of that info Allan. Now I know too
Carry on.
The Cutlass (and Cutlass Supreme) sedans were also available in Hardtop models. Here's a pic of a nice one. Based on the info already provided, can you tell what it is? Cutlass or Cutlass Supreme?
Thread hijack.....
Those hubcaps are from a '75 Chevy Malibu Classic Station wagon....not a good look, IMO.
Thanks for all of that info Allan. Now I know too
Carry on.
#31
#32
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
2. Not so. Your cowl tag clearly shows the car was born with a black vinyl top and Aspen Green lower body.
Did you go through the link Eric sent you?
The trim color on your car is 920 which is Black. The letter 'A' references the type of seat in the car. In your case A = Cloth/vinyl Bench seat.
The car started its life in the third week of April, 1967 at the Lansing Fisher body works. That info is derived from the number 04 and letter C at the top of the tag. 04 is the 4th month, C is the third week of the month. Cars started their life at the Body works plant and were welded together/fitted with interior trim/glass at Fisher. Then they were sent (body only) to the Lansing production line where the chassis, drivetrain, front clip, bumpers etc were bolted on.
There is absolutely nothing on this tag to indicate any special options, so I suspect it was a plain jane ordered by a dealer. Base price on this car back in 67 was 2644.00. Add for any options like Jetaway 2 speed trans, AC, PS, PB etc.
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