Dirve shaft upgrade needed, and new transmission.
#1
#3
You probably need a new companion flange on the differential also. It would be a good time to upgrade to 3.5" or 4" tubing and Spicer 1350 universal joints (or the similarly sized Olds joint, not the small 1310 chevy joint, if that is what you were using.
#4
I do not think so, the U-joint is still on the rear end. I believe the ear on the drive shaft broke after the shaft ripped through the floor, and exhaust system.
#5
It is at the shop right now getting a drive shaft to handle the 500 ft pounds of torque. I am not sure what they are doing. This did not happen while I had the car, so I am not exactly sure how it happened.
#7
Sorry I took the car in to have some warranty work done, and a have the carb tuned. The story I got was this happened at 30 MPH when they took it to get gas. It is at a place that treats me right and that I trust, so I dont know. Also the owner who treats me very well, and has done a lot of my work was not there at the time.
#10
Sorry, my post took me a while to write because I'm watching the Texans / Jets game...I meant I was curious how that happened without you present.
Is the shop going to pay for the repair? I'm sorry, but cruising down the road doesn't twist a driveshaft like that. There was stress on it to make it twist and then that broke the U-joint. I don't believe the U-joint breaking first would have torn the driveshaft in 2 places like it did.
JMO, someone was hot rodding your car.
Is the shop going to pay for the repair? I'm sorry, but cruising down the road doesn't twist a driveshaft like that. There was stress on it to make it twist and then that broke the U-joint. I don't believe the U-joint breaking first would have torn the driveshaft in 2 places like it did.
JMO, someone was hot rodding your car.
#11
Sorry, my post took me a while to write because I'm watching the Texans / Jets game...I meant I was curious how that happened without you present.
Is the shop going to pay for the repair? I'm sorry, but cruising down the road doesn't twist a driveshaft like that. There was stress on it to make it twist and then that broke the U-joint. I don't believe the U-joint breaking first would have torn the driveshaft in 2 places like it did.
JMO, someone was hot rodding your car.
Is the shop going to pay for the repair? I'm sorry, but cruising down the road doesn't twist a driveshaft like that. There was stress on it to make it twist and then that broke the U-joint. I don't believe the U-joint breaking first would have torn the driveshaft in 2 places like it did.
JMO, someone was hot rodding your car.
Last edited by ATrain1; October 8th, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
#12
I had a nearly identical looking driveshaft, severed bellhousing on trans case, exhaust, etc when my driveshaft(u joint/yoke or sumthin) let go in the traps @ over 100 mph the first time I went to a track rental a few years ago.
The hell of it was I had a new shaft being built but he was behind, it showed up Monday after my stock one let go on Friday!
The hell of it was I had a new shaft being built but he was behind, it showed up Monday after my stock one let go on Friday!
Last edited by bccan; October 9th, 2012 at 02:49 AM.
#13
I had a nearly identical looking driveshaft, severed bellhousing on trans case, exhaust, etc when my driveshaft(u joint/yoke or sumthin) let go in the traps @ over 100 mph the first time I went to a track rental a few years ago.
The hell of it was I had a new shaft being built but he was behind, it showed up Monday after my stock one let go on Friday!
The hell of it was I had a new shaft being built but he was behind, it showed up Monday after my stock one let go on Friday!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
64 CUTLASS KEN
Transmission
3
November 22nd, 2010 05:17 PM