changing front end suspension for 66 olds 98
#1
changing front end suspension for 66 olds 98
I want to change my complete front end suspension. I took my car to a wheel alignment specialist because my front end sways and bushings are worn. I took car to a reliable shop.. they stated I need to change everything but my shocks. He said it would be best if I buy the parts myself and they would only charge 425 labor.
I went to a local shop and found everything except for the:
Center Link, Idler Arms and Upper Ball joints. Any website for shop you can recommend for these items.
the parts store I went to has the following prices for the items they do carry.
Lower Ball Joints 69.22 each
Upper Bushings 14.28
Lower Bushings 20.71
Inner tie rods 63.00
outer tie rods 45.65
sleeves 68.90 each
sway bar bushing 13.62
links 6.89
anyone know of any companies that sell a complete kit?
thanks
I went to a local shop and found everything except for the:
Center Link, Idler Arms and Upper Ball joints. Any website for shop you can recommend for these items.
the parts store I went to has the following prices for the items they do carry.
Lower Ball Joints 69.22 each
Upper Bushings 14.28
Lower Bushings 20.71
Inner tie rods 63.00
outer tie rods 45.65
sleeves 68.90 each
sway bar bushing 13.62
links 6.89
anyone know of any companies that sell a complete kit?
thanks
#2
Did that shopping spree once.
Hard to find parts for the 65-70 BigCars
The center link comes in 2 types, S & T - Saginaw & Thompson. I think it's PS vs manual steering or just 2 suppliers maybe. TAPERS DIFFER so you cannot interchange. ONE place in the country hoarded all of them, and the price was like $190 and the exact same price at every place that said they could get it. I bought one, and the wife crashed the car a month later.
I have one example of each in the garage. could show you how to ID the diff, but the CSM probably does that also.
Look at Rock Auto maybe- rockauto.com
Hard to find parts for the 65-70 BigCars
The center link comes in 2 types, S & T - Saginaw & Thompson. I think it's PS vs manual steering or just 2 suppliers maybe. TAPERS DIFFER so you cannot interchange. ONE place in the country hoarded all of them, and the price was like $190 and the exact same price at every place that said they could get it. I bought one, and the wife crashed the car a month later.
I have one example of each in the garage. could show you how to ID the diff, but the CSM probably does that also.
Look at Rock Auto maybe- rockauto.com
#3
Kanter is a good source for things like this. They have complete front-end kits. Go to the site and do a search on your year, make, and model.
http://www.kanter.com///productdetai...Cat=39&Prc=181
http://www.kanter.com///productdetai...Cat=39&Prc=181
#4
"Center Link 1965 - 1968 Oldsmobile Full Size RWD TRW type
In order to determine type measure the pitman arm end centerlink stud at the end of the taper nearest the threads. Sagianw measures .587, TRW .556"
There ye go
You would have to dismantle at least 1 joint to tell.
There is a way to tell by the shape of the joint also.
only $235 for the center link and $260 for the rest of the pcs.
And 425 for the install.
A cool grand.
In order to determine type measure the pitman arm end centerlink stud at the end of the taper nearest the threads. Sagianw measures .587, TRW .556"
There ye go
You would have to dismantle at least 1 joint to tell.
There is a way to tell by the shape of the joint also.
only $235 for the center link and $260 for the rest of the pcs.
And 425 for the install.
A cool grand.
#6
Gee. Last one I bought was around 1993 or '94.
Cost about $135, if I recall, and I think I was foaming at the mouth as I paid it.
Sure made a difference in how the car handled, though.
In my case, my wife didn't crash it, I hit an unmarked raised manhole cover in the middle of the FDR Drive at 70 mph, dead-center with the front frame crossmember - car didn't stop, but I think the center of the crossmember went back about an inch, and that car never handled the same again.
I think replacing the centerlink may be bad mojo.
- Eric
Cost about $135, if I recall, and I think I was foaming at the mouth as I paid it.
Sure made a difference in how the car handled, though.
In my case, my wife didn't crash it, I hit an unmarked raised manhole cover in the middle of the FDR Drive at 70 mph, dead-center with the front frame crossmember - car didn't stop, but I think the center of the crossmember went back about an inch, and that car never handled the same again.
I think replacing the centerlink may be bad mojo.
- Eric
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April 27th, 2012 07:28 PM