1968 98 convertible glass separation
May 5th, 2021, 12:39 PM
#1
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1968 98 convertible glass separation
Look at the above two pictures of the small gap between the front and rear glass on the driver's side, when the top is down. Is there a way to adjust the rear glass so it is flush with the front glass?
May 24th, 2021, 05:33 PM
#3
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Somewhere around here I have posted what little I know about adjusting ‘66 98 convertible glass. Look for it under my signature and it may help on top of the factory instructions.
Convertibles are a tougher problem than hard tops since there are many more adjustment points and at the end of a lot of hours I really only got closer to perfection, not really perfect.
Decide up front whether you’re going to do your door hinges first or just adjust the windows and live with the fact that some windows will be more extremely adjusted than you may like as you account for sagging doors. Also note that the convertible top frame and roof rails your windows close against and seal to is a bit of a moving target. You can adjust the top a whole lot as well.
You may want to get some replacement roller rivets on order in case yours are worn or broken. I’ve posted some instructions here on replacing those too. If your motors are weak, you may want to swap fronts and rears on the idea that rears have fewer mile on them than the fronts. Or get new/rebuilt for about $130 a piece. I prefer used GM, personally.
You may also find that your front and rear window channels (fuzzies) are long since worn. This is a perfect time to replace them. You can get the fronts from Fusick or Steele, but I remade my rears using 2” wide sticky back Velcro and like the result. The factory used mohair and replacements are weak at best in my view - just not thick enough to hold the rear of the windows in place.
Last time around the process I used was replace the door hinges, adjust the top as low as possible, then I did the rear windows and finished with the fronts. Having said that, I think I iterated several times to balance out positioning of fronts and rears.
Be prepared for quite some frustrating hours, there are many dimensions of adjustment available to you. Learning them and how they interact can eat up 2 days easy.
Convertibles are a tougher problem than hard tops since there are many more adjustment points and at the end of a lot of hours I really only got closer to perfection, not really perfect.
Decide up front whether you’re going to do your door hinges first or just adjust the windows and live with the fact that some windows will be more extremely adjusted than you may like as you account for sagging doors. Also note that the convertible top frame and roof rails your windows close against and seal to is a bit of a moving target. You can adjust the top a whole lot as well.
You may want to get some replacement roller rivets on order in case yours are worn or broken. I’ve posted some instructions here on replacing those too. If your motors are weak, you may want to swap fronts and rears on the idea that rears have fewer mile on them than the fronts. Or get new/rebuilt for about $130 a piece. I prefer used GM, personally.
You may also find that your front and rear window channels (fuzzies) are long since worn. This is a perfect time to replace them. You can get the fronts from Fusick or Steele, but I remade my rears using 2” wide sticky back Velcro and like the result. The factory used mohair and replacements are weak at best in my view - just not thick enough to hold the rear of the windows in place.
Last time around the process I used was replace the door hinges, adjust the top as low as possible, then I did the rear windows and finished with the fronts. Having said that, I think I iterated several times to balance out positioning of fronts and rears.
Be prepared for quite some frustrating hours, there are many dimensions of adjustment available to you. Learning them and how they interact can eat up 2 days easy.
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