1953 Starter rebuild

Old May 5, 2017 | 04:17 PM
  #1  
stocki26's Avatar
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1953 Starter rebuild

Hi guys

just a few miles after starting the season starting the engine didn't sound good, so I had to take the starter out today. Tomorrow I will have a look inside to know what else I have to order

olds%20starter_zpswmw5szqs.jpg

after taking the starter out I saw one cable that seems to be free and isolated, I dont think it was original like that ? Does anyone have an idea where this cable should be connected ? (Everything worked perfect before I took the starter out and I dont think to have pulled the cable out of its correct position...

olds%20cable_zps3ppeqibi.jpg
Old May 5, 2017 | 04:56 PM
  #2  
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How does your flywheel look? What post was the wire in question connected to?
Old May 5, 2017 | 05:01 PM
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I just took the starter out, tomorrow I will turn around and check the flywheel if something is missing ....

I didnt see that cable before taking the starter out, so I dont have any idea where it could have been connected. It seems to have the end "tape-covered" so I think someone has worked there earlier
Old May 5, 2017 | 05:02 PM
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X2 on the flywheel, looks as though the teeth are chewed up on the starter. I would bet that the flywheel looks the same.

Is this a auto car or manual. If auto this can be a difficult job with out the right equipment..... Tedd
Old May 5, 2017 | 05:13 PM
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not that bad - it is a 1953 automatic - hydramatic

flyw_zpshnfrpowt.jpg

Last edited by stocki26; May 5, 2017 at 05:19 PM.
Old May 5, 2017 | 08:49 PM
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You need to inspect all 360* of the flywheel. If the engine ran fine with that wire disconnected, I would not worry.
Old May 5, 2017 | 10:02 PM
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The flywheel looks great in that spot, as Eric says, you do need to have someone rotate the engine slowly with a wrench so that you can see the whole thing.
Make a mark on it where it is now, so that you will know when you have seen all of it.

As for the starter, that drive gear should be easily available, probably attached to the sprag clutch. It may even be the same part as on later starters (it sure looks like it).
If you have any questions about parts, Stellar on this board can answer them, and he can sell you parts as well.

- Eric
Old May 5, 2017 | 11:02 PM
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The starting motor drive assembly is group 2.086, part 1873789; it fits 1939-1953. As everyone said, be sure to check the entire ring gear for any damage. Here's one place you can get the drive.:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/o...ter+drive,4172

More information is needed to identify the "mystery" wire. Leave the tape on it until you know what it is.
Old May 6, 2017 | 05:25 AM
  #9  
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here one of the reasons why the teeth look as they look

dsa_zpsfq8lrij6.jpg
Old May 6, 2017 | 07:53 AM
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I don't think so unless it was put in upside down. If you can find one go ahead and replace it. The worn section would be the return side and is normal wear and not in need of replacement. Before you buy a drive make sure it matches the splines on your armature. Can you post a pic of the drive after you remove it from the armature and possibly a pic of the armature splines. Does the gear on the drive lock in one direction and turn in the other direction or is it locked in both directions?
Old May 6, 2017 | 08:11 AM
  #11  
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do you think there is a difference upside down ? As far as I have seen I could not see a different position when turning it upside down. I thought now to turn it, but I also can weld it to get the material back where it belongs. The correct electrical working was checked by a specialist, all is fine so far.

start1_zpst1ff3ccm.jpg

start2_zpsi2bipbz1.jpg
Old May 6, 2017 | 09:54 AM
  #12  
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Some levers can be turned upside down and some can't. Some are a bit offset and others are straight. You will have to look at it. Do not put the worn side toward the drive gear. The wear is from the starter still spinning after the drive disengages from the flywheel and wear there causes no harm. If wear is on the gear side it will decrease the engagement distance. welding it works. Straight or spiral splines on the armature shaft? The drive in Ozzie post from rock auto has straight splines. Check before you buy.
Old May 6, 2017 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stocki26
here one of the reasons why the teeth look as they look

That is typical wear on that lever. As Stellar advises, it should be corrected while working on the starter. A quality weld build up should suffice. If you would prefer a new lever, the group number is 2.108, part number 1915662. It was used from 1951 to 1956. Brushes and bushings are also usual wear items which should be checked.
Old Jul 24, 2017 | 03:38 AM
  #14  
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Thanks to all that have helped, starter is rebuilt and works fine again.

Flywheel shows some little damage on some little spots but it will work for some more years I hope - ok I am sure :-)







Old Jul 24, 2017 | 03:50 AM
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Welding the lever worked fine, starter sounds like new



Old Mar 13, 2022 | 12:23 PM
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You have posted that it is a 53 starter which fits the 303 motor and is 12volt, but if the motor is not a 303 but is a 54 324 motor the starter will not mesh with the flywheel, which will chew up the gears on the starter. Is your motor a 324 or a 303.
Old Mar 20, 2022 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Todd Scoot Wiese
You have posted that it is a 53 starter which fits the 303 motor and is 12volt, but if the motor is not a 303 but is a 54 324 motor the starter will not mesh with the flywheel, which will chew up the gears on the starter. Is your motor a 324 or a 303.
Original 303 with 4-speed Hydramatic,original ignition and carburator
Old Mar 20, 2022 | 08:06 AM
  #18  
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This thread is 5 years old. I am guessing the starter is still working okay.
Old Mar 20, 2022 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
This thread is 5 years old. I am guessing the starter is still working okay.
For sure

But actually I expect to have to take out the carburator, engine running bad or even does not start.
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