I was wondering the value of a 1972 455 bored .30 over rebuilt with not even 10,000 miles on it. Complete motor ready to turn key.

 

Depends on whats in it in parts, documentation, and the type of machine work done to it. If I could not hear it run, it's a core.

 

I can't remember the exact price in machine work. New pistons, rods, cam, lifters, springs, guides, decked, honed. It's a complete engine edelbrock carb and intake, distributor,etc and even headers.

 

Is there any documentation as to what parts were used?

 

In my opinion, it is only worth the reputation of the builder, the documentation of parts used, and the history of care and usage for the 10K miles, i.e., what the previous owner did to it......all questionable.....??


......otherwise, it is just a core needing to be checked......

 

Here's one data point. I paid $2,000 for a running rebuilt 455 in similar condition from a reputable seller.

 

I was thinking if you got $2500 out of it take the cash & run.

 

I have double the money in machine work than to just take that and run. It'll set and go to hell before I take 2500 for it.

 

Kinda hard to give you a meaningful answer when the only things you've told us about the motor are that it is 0.030 over and has about 10K miles on it. We have no idea if it's a stock rebuild, cast or forged pistons, stock or aftermarket cam, big or small valves, does it include an intake and carb and if so, which, etc, etc.

You asked a question with no backup info. Don't be pissed when you don't get the answer you wanted.

And if you have receipts, you already know what it is worth to you. Just be aware that others have bought similar motors for less than your costs. Price accordingly.

 

Yes, you likely will.

This is a key problem when people want to sell things, especially engines: The value of the car or engine has nothing to do with how much money you put into, it; it is related only to the degree to which you can prove each and every purchase, and that each and every bit of the work was done correctly. Any buyer would have to be able to personally contact the builder and talk to him about both the specific engine, and his work in general, essentially as though he was planning to have an engine rebuilt himself, before he would offer you anything close to the amount that you paid to have the work done.

Anyway, hope you're warm down there where you are with the engine (I had always been told you couldn't take those things with you...). It's so bloody cold up here that sometimes I think I'd be willing to trade places with you.

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric

 

Yeah well you can say what you want but this day and age big block motors with a steel crank are becoming hard to come across. I mean you can get a brand new small block crate motor for 2500. So I'm not exactly sure where your getting your information from.

 

We're getting our information from our own experience, and that of our Olds-buying buddies.

Last big block I bought was a running 425 for $350.

Last running small block was $300. Before that, I bought a non-running (just needed the HEI hooked up, as it turned out) small block for $50.

Without proof of every detail of the build, or at least the ability to drive it on the street before pulling it, your motor is a core, because it has to be completely torn down to see what's inside, and what condition it's in.

... And a '72 455 has a cast iron crank.
If that's the level of your knowledge of this engine, good luck selling it.

- Eric

 

First of all Olds never put a steel crank in any '72 BB. Do you have any casting numbers off that crank, or photos of the back where the flex plate bolts on? How could you possibly spend $5000 on just machine work? Should've called Bill @ BTR, he could have sold you a stroker short block, with an Eagle crank for $5000.
I think the guys here really want to know:
1) What pistons do you have?
2) What rods do you have?
3) What lower end support do you have?
4) What compression ratio are you running?
5) What heads/ porting work are you running?
6) What cam are you using?
7) What intake, carb, distributor?
8) How long ago was this engine built?

 

Ditto.
In fact, if you can't hear it run, you can't even be sure it's a useable core unless you tear it down.



Ditto again.