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Well it would seem I found the newbie forum.
I am not new to the car hobby but this my first Oldsmobile. Most of my previous toys were performance cars but at 65 years old it is time to slow down. I recently picked up a 64 Dynamic 88 convertible at a price I could not say no too. I am reasonable well educated with Chevy casting numbers as we have done a lot of oval track, and I have had both a 68 and 69 Chevelles.. I have been looking and it seems to be far more difficult to find Oldsmobile casting numbers etc. Where the heck is the block casting number? the drivers door latch has messed up so I can not open the door to get the serial number and the paper is still on the way. I assume it is on the door post as most older GM products. Thanks for letting me in! I am sure I will be asking a few questions. Regards, Terry
Last edited by Terry Krook; April 25th, 2018 at 06:15 PM.
Reason: changes
Welcome to the forum, Terry. I recognize you from a couple of the VI Muscle Car facebook groups. Looking forward to seeing that Dynamic out and around!
Thanks Clay. Yes I am on several of the island sites. I spent 39 years on Quadra island, 24 in Port Hardy, 2 in Victoria and now I am back on Quadra.Thanks for the welcome gentlemen. Where can I find a good decoding site for my car? is there one on here? I am familiar with www.chevelles.com and this looks like much the same format . But chevelles.com has a "by the numbers" forum.
Last edited by Terry Krook; April 25th, 2018 at 07:56 PM.
Reason: mistaje
Y = a letter that will tell you what plant built the car. M = Lansing, A = Atlanta, K = Kansas City, Kansas, L = Linden, New Jersey, C = Southgate, California, and T = Arlington, Texas
XXXXXX = serial number at the particular assembly plant
Your car looks like a great project. Can't wait to follow your progress!
Welcome Terry ,
The engine build number on a '64 is on the top of the drivers side head . Just above the center exhaust ports .
The engine casting number is on the rear of the block on the topside of the bellhousing .
The casting date (98) is a Julian date . #1 being Jan 1st #365 being Dec 31st.
The body tag should be on the top of the cowl , under the hood on the passenger side .
This is probably the best sight for your car . Just post up the numbers , or a photo of the tag and we will decipher it for you .
64-3467= 1964 Dynamic 88 convertible
BC58= assembled at South Gate , California
11A= assembled 1st week of November 1963
trim 997=White vinyl interior
paint L1A= Regal Mist (maroon) with white top and black wheels
64-3467= 1964 Dynamic 88 convertible
BC58= assembled at South Gate , California
11A= assembled 1st week of November 1963
trim 997=White vinyl interior
paint L1A= Regal Mist (maroon) with white top and black wheels
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Welcome aboard!
Looks like a very solid looking car. No apparent rust anywhere on the sides, hopefully none in the floor, trunk or frame either. Where did the car spend most of its life?
Welcome aboard!
Looks like a very solid looking car. No apparent rust anywhere on the sides, hopefully none in the floor, trunk or frame either. Where did the car spend most of its life?
As far as I know the car spent most of it life here in British Columbia. the floor pans, frame and truck are all real nice. I have not got too far into it yet, but it looks like water has got in under the rear side windows and has settled there. There are identical rust bubbles about an inch high, by 18 inches long, on either side. I am impressed with the condition, But I am well aware that when you see a little rust, chances are really good there is more you can not see. I want to use it this summer but a dual master cylinder is going in before it moves. Have you any ideas on what to use that fits reasonably? I have an appointment to have it detailed, and for now I might just do the rust repair I can see, and either paint or temporary wrap from the chrome down. As you all know when doing this kind of thing, you have to be a bit creative, a bit genius and most of all a bit crazy.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Does the car have manual or Power drum brakes? Have you checked Rockauto for master cylinders? I looked at 64 but none of them are dual reservoir. A dual master means you'd have to do some re-plumbing of the brake lines to make that work and install a distribution valve?
There are lots of experts on these old B body cars here who will know the answers to your questions. Unfortunately I don't have them.
I want to use it this summer but a dual master cylinder is going in before it moves. Have you any ideas on what to use that fits reasonably?
A lot depends on which type master cylinder & booster you have .
Bendix or Moraine . Olds used two types in production in the early sixties .
The Bendix master cyl . is held on the booster by four bolts . and the Moraine is held on by two .
If you have the Moraine cylinder you're in luck . A 1966 Cadillac master cyl. will fit the booster . It may , however , require adjustment of the push rod .
The Caddy M/C has outlets on the right side . So it will clear the fenderwell .
As others have mentioned , lines will have to be fabbed and a purportioning valve installed .
If you have a Bendix booster , then look for a good used Moraine booster and have it rebuilt .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; April 26th, 2018 at 05:45 PM.
They also offered a 330 in the full size Jetstar 88 for 1964
But it is not a Jetstar. It is a dynamic 88 I am pretty sure it is the low compression 394. It has a two barrel. but tat is just fine. I have had my go-fast cars. I have no issues with plumbing in new lines for the added safety. I well remember the feeling of the brake pedal going all the way to the floor in a 56 Ford when a rusty brake line let go. I see ben( rambow ) is on this site! I have met him and know him from Team Chevelle.
Last edited by Terry Krook; April 26th, 2018 at 06:22 PM.
But it is not a Jetstar. It is a dynamic 88 I am pretty sure it is the low compression 394. It has a two barrel.
To be sure , post the stamped number on the head . That tells all .
Also hi compression motors were painted red and lo compression motors were green . However , after 54 years all bets are off . It may have been re-painted .
To be sure , post the stamped number on the head . That tells all .
Also hi compression motors were painted red and lo compression motors were green . However , after 54 years all bets are off . It may have been re-painted .
Thanks Charlie. It is red and I don't think it has ever been out of the car. If it has, it has been put back in 100% correct. Is the head casting number under a valve cover like BBC's? I just went and looked and there is peeling pain on the block and no evidence of green. How did they do the lower compression? P
istons or bigger chambers in the heads?
They used dished pistons and different heads and unless you are building a hot rod lower compression is sometimes preferred because of the viability of decent hi test gas today. They look as good going slow with 9 1/2 compression as they do with 11: to 1 and pinging.... Tedd
They used dished pistons and different heads and unless you are building a hot rod lower compression is sometimes preferred because of the viability of decent hi test gas today. They look as good going slow with 9 1/2 compression as they do with 11: to 1 and pinging.... Tedd
LOL. Yes they do!! I don't care if it is fast. But it has to sound good!! I just looked at the production numbers for the convertible and it was around 10 thousand.. I wonder how many are left.
What I've always heard the rule of thumb on cars of fifty years and more is about 1% or in your case about 100 cars left registered and running around. I wouldn't bet the farm on that formula though as I'm sure the popularly of models and style (convertible vs hard top) would factor in on longevity.
I know in the case of my car there are damn few to be seen on the road or at least by me anyway. In almost 18 years of showing my car I have only seen two other examples in person..... Tedd
Thanks Charlie. It is red and I don't think it has ever been out of the car. If it has, it has been put back in 100% correct. Is the head casting number under a valve cover like BBC's? I just went and looked and there is peeling pain on the block and no evidence of green. How did they do the lower compression? P
istons or bigger chambers in the heads?
The number you are looking is a STAMPED number . It is not under the rocker cover , It is just below the lower edge of the cover . and above the center exhaust ports . Like this ;
The numbers are simply a sequential number , The letters (or lack thereof) will spell out whether it is hi compression or lo . They will also tell you whether it is two or four barrel and whether it is an export engine .
this is explained at the beginning of the engine section of the 1964 Oldsmobile Shop Manual . Available online here; http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...0262549471.cgi
The compression ratio was determined by the depth of the dish in the piston . The heads were all the same .
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I expect some of the body has been repaired at some point in time? When I looked at your picture, the evidence of a respray is evident on the hood hinges. You might find bondo as well, but overall what a great looking body!
When you get it running don't be surprised to see the fuel gage drain quickly.
Charlie didn't the Starfire have larger valves than the other cars or was that only in 62?... Tedd
In 1961 Starfires (only) got #23 heads with larger ports and valves .
All other 394's got #20 heads . from '62 thru 64 all 394's got the #23 heads , Starfire or not .
LOL. Yes they do!! I don't care if it is fast. But it has to sound good!! I just looked at the production numbers for the convertible and it was around 10 thousand.. I wonder how many are left.
I own #5025/10042 in NC
Please keep me updated on your progress Terry. Congrats on a great find!
Thanks guys. I have not been in here in a month, I did not trust the gas tank so with some fresh gas in an outboard tank, and freeing up the Carb linkage, it fired right up. But with a pinched nerve in my back and other problems, the poor car progress has ground to a halt. But I have a question. Is there any other model of GM cars that wear the same interior? For example, my Chevelle door panels would fit a GTO. Lemans, etc. The back seat really looks impala-ish.Thanks. T
Terry, how does your car shift? If anything was poorly built or as problematic on a Oldsmobile 64 big car as was that Slim Jim transmission. If it shifts smooth you are a lucky man, if not your options a few. Nothing common fits in the transmission tunnel or bolts up to the 394 with ease or cheaply. Few shops will attempt to rebuild a Slim Jim these days and most don't know what to look for when they get into one. There are a few old timers still around that know there stuff but they are getting to be fewer and fewer doing Slim Jims. If you have issues ask here for advice on a rebuilder that might be in your area.... Luck with your cool car... Tedd
Terry, how does your car shift? If anything was poorly built or as problematic on a Oldsmobile 64 big car as was that Slim Jim transmission. If it shifts smooth you are a lucky man, if not your options a few. Nothing common fits in the transmission tunnel or bolts up to the 394 with ease or cheaply. Few shops will attempt to rebuild a Slim Jim these days and most don't know what to look for when they get into one. There are a few old timers still around that know there stuff but they are getting to be fewer and fewer doing Slim Jims. If you have issues ask here for advice on a rebuilder that might be in your area.... Luck with your cool car... Tedd
All I have done is move it around in the yard Tedd so I could not say. But if either the engine or tranny goes, I will be making new mounts and it will be getting either a BBC or a SBC and a turbo 400. Mostly because I have most of the parts to build one.
Not as easy as a Cheby. It does get done but a Old's 394 mounts from the front of the engine and on the sides of that POS. Slim Jim transmission. A cross member will need to be made and everyone I've seen do this has had to hang that cross member very low (to low for me) to make room room for a fatter common transmission like a Th350 or Th400. It can be done but it takes a lot more work than a normal engine trans swap. Check around before you start jerking cutting and swapping. Just saying others have been here before you on this forum, no use to reinvent the wheel if you don't have to ... Tedd
Think about selling the car and buying a Chebby. It would be a lot less work.
I am thinking about selling it. I have pinched a nerve in my back and Dr. says it is something I am probably going to have to live with. So do I really want to start another project at 65 years old and a haywire back? But it is difficult to figure out a value for it.
April 25th, 2018, 06:11 PM
Hello from Oregon!
