BlackDogJake

Hello all,

I just received the 1967 Cutlass Supreme that my mother bought brand new from University Olds in Lansing on Jun 5, 1967. It is in very good shape but needs some surface things (brakes, tires/rims, etc). I'm looking forward to getting these things done and enjoying it. Also looking forward to learning from this group!

oldcutlass

Welcome to the site, you do know this thread is useless without pictures... Its nice to have a vintage car and know all the history, congrats on carrying the history forward.

CRUZN 66

Welcome to the group... Questions can be handled here quite well... Sometimes there is a fee in the form of PICS, PICS, & more PICS...JK But we do enjoy pics, especially when they are of family history owned vehicles...

BlackDogJake

Sorry about that. Here are some pictures of the car!

This past weekend, I began the process of changing over the front drums to power disc brakes. Having a difficult time with the removal of the ball joints.

Separately, when I was younger, I owned a few mid-80's Cutlasses, and my father still drives his 1976 Cutlass (bought new) in the summer almost daily.

Allan R

Welcome aboard. The car looks to be in amazing shape. Is it original paint?

BlackDogJake

Thanks Allan. It is in really great shape. I'll have to check with my dad on the paint. I could swear that he had it re-painted in the early 80's, but I don't find any signs of overspray.

oldcutlass

Great looking car.

CRUZN 66

Sharp looking cutlass... Have to admit, not a fan of the wheel choice, but they are a trend of the vehicles historical times...

BlackDogJake

The wheels are pitted and rusting anyway. Initially I had thoughts of re-chroming them, but was quickly educated as to what that would entail/cost.

I still have the original hubcaps with the vehicle, but they are not going to go on it while I own it. I kept a set of the SSIII rims I had from one of my '80's Cutlasses with thoughts of having them painted body color.

But, over the weekend, I found a guy with a very good looking set of SSIII chrome rims on Craigslist with tires. They need a little bit of touch up in the black areas, but nothing difficult. The chrome is in great shape. Now they are in my garage for use on the car.

BlackDogJake

As noted above, I also picked up the disc brake conversion kit from InlineTube (local). I got the full conversion kit (master cylinder/booster) with black painted calipers, and drilled and slotted rotors for $595. While I was at it, I had them add on the full stainless line set, a set of body brake line clips, and two new rear drum cylinders.

I am having a seriously difficult time getting the upper ball joints out. I see that there are 4 rivets holding each one in. I tried drilling the tops of them with 1/8" drill bit first and then 1/2" drill bit, but not getting them loose. My enforcer has also been involved. Any suggestions?

oldcutlass

Its easier if you take the A frames out of the car. Grind the heads off the rivets and then drive them out with a punch.

BlackDogJake

I checked YouTube and I see a few different videos. I do see that it may be easiest to get the rivets off after taking the a-frames, but then I have to deal with the shocks/springs, and possibly new a-frame bushings and bolt/nut. I'm going to try drilling again and knocking out with a punch. Thank you for the suggestion!

oldcutlass

The upper A frames are not connected to the shocks nor the springs. With the car supported by the lower control arms, remove the 2 nuts that hold the uppper A arm cross shafts to the frame. Tape and mark the shims so you can return them back where they came from. Remove the A Arm. You may have to tap the serrated bolts out of the frame mount.

If the upper A frame bushings look really cracked or worn, now is the time to change them.

35tac

I assume you are using a portable electric drill. Better drill bit might help, industrial grade, 135 Deg split point better known as aircraft drill bit best found at an industrial supply house. Drilling with a larger size and then going smaller doesn't help as a matter of fact it makes it worse. Pick the correct size then go at it. Don't get talked into carbide. I doubt that the rivets are a hardened steel so squirt some oil on it, could help some.
Wayne

Rocketowner

Welcome to C. O. Nice looking car.I'd say you have some bragging rights.Who else can say that they have a one owner , lady driven ,'67 Olds. Cutlass that was born and raised in Lansing, Michigan. Best of luck with your project. Larry

CRUZN 66

The chrome SSIII's will definitely make the car standout... JMO...

BlackDogJake

Thanks for the comments! It is appreciated! I finally got the upper ball joints off tonight. Drilled the rivets through using 3/16" drill. Just took a while and yes, I did need to sharpen the drill bit and use drill magic oil.

I feel so much better that is done now... Now for the reinstall.

QMaster

Nice car. Welcome to the site!