When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
just got this 64 starfire recently, Been messing with it some. It's got an electric fuel pump with its own switch next to the ignition. The radiator was leaking a bit when full, so I just replaced it. Wipers currently don't work, and all the heater hoses are disconnected and capped off. Also, the gas tank likes to leak a little bit. Not really sure why the heater is disconnected, I'm thinking maybe the heater core went bad? The interior is pretty sweet except for the ceiling. Needs some weather stripping. Good thing though now is I'm keeping her in a garage. I just posted pictures to the gallery, let's see if I can put them on here.
Whether you do the work yourself , or farm it out , the correct info is invaluable .
Wipers may be something as simple as a fuse , or not .
This heating and air conditioning system is actuated by vacuum .
All the hoses need to be intact and hooked up to a good source of vacuum for anything to work . Also make sure that the vacuum diaphragms aren't leaking .
I would hook up the heater core and just make sure it is leaking . It may have been disconnected for other reasons .
Check with your local radiator repair shop , a lot of them also repair gas tanks .
Before you do that , check the hoses underneath between the gas tank and lines .
Sometimes 50 year old hoses tend to leak .
Welcome to the group... Definitely a standout color... Is the interior green as well or is it black?
interior is black. It's in really good shape as well. The driver side door has a little bit of damage where the weather stripping has rotted. It caused the window to come disconnected from the mechanism that guides it up and down. I've figured out how it all works but the thing I'm figuring out is how to attach the window back to the guide. Currently testing out the JB Weld.
Whether you do the work yourself , or farm it out , the correct info is invaluable .
Wipers may be something as simple as a fuse , or not .
This heating and air conditioning system is actuated by vacuum .
All the hoses need to be intact and hooked up to a good source of vacuum for anything to work . Also make sure that the vacuum diaphragms aren't leaking .
I would hook up the heater core and just make sure it is leaking . It may have been disconnected for other reasons .
Check with your local radiator repair shop , a lot of them also repair gas tanks .
Before you do that , check the hoses underneath between the gas tank and lines .
Sometimes 50 year old hoses tend to leak .
thanks for for the info, I already got the service manuals, that's been my preferred reading material lately. Also you're the second person to recommend a radiator shop for the gas tank. The hoses all look to be new because there is also an electric fuel pump, and a fuel filter along the tail of the passenger side. I'm thinking the original fuel filter was right at the tank??? Not totally sure on that.
The hoses all look to be new because there is also an electric fuel pump, and a fuel filter along the tail of the passenger side. I'm thinking the original fuel filter was right at the tank??? Not totally sure on that.
If the 64 is like my 63 the fuel filter is a sediment bowl attached to the fuel pump on the engine, nothing back at the tank. If the original pump works there should be no need for an electric fuel pump on the car, IMO that is an accident waiting to happen. Being an A/C car it should also have a fuel return line back to the tank.
If the 64 is like my 63 the fuel filter is a sediment bowl attached to the fuel pump on the engine, nothing back at the tank. If the original pump works there should be no need for an electric fuel pump on the car, IMO that is an accident waiting to happen. Being an A/C car it should also have a fuel return line back to the tank.
If the 64 is like my 63 the fuel filter is a sediment bowl attached to the fuel pump on the engine, nothing back at the tank. If the original pump works there should be no need for an electric fuel pump on the car, IMO that is an accident waiting to happen. Being an A/C car it should also have a fuel return line back to the tank.
not sure why there is an electric fuel pump attached. The heater and air conditioning are all disconnected as well. There's a switch for the fuel pump right next to ignition. I'm open to theories on why there's an electric one, or why someone would put an electric one on instead of fixing the old one.
not sure why there is an electric fuel pump attached. The heater and air conditioning are all disconnected as well. There's a switch for the fuel pump right next to ignition. I'm open to theories on why there's an electric one, or why someone would put an electric one on instead of fixing the old one.
welcome to the site.nice car loved my 64 conv.that car has a beautiful tailpanel,do not mess it up you will not find another one.also ditch the chessy buick wheel covers.on mine i really like the aluminum covers but finding them AND the wheels is next to impossible.i had a set of the covers but not the wheels.i ran across a set of tru-spoke thick spoke wheels with the 3 bar knock offs.looked awesome.
not sure why there is an electric fuel pump attached. The heater and air conditioning are all disconnected as well. There's a switch for the fuel pump right next to ignition. I'm open to theories on why there's an electric one, or why someone would put an electric one on instead of fixing the old one.
The reason you have an electric fuel pump is simple.
Someone was too lazy , ignorant , or cheap to fix the car properly with a rebuilt fuel pump. They are not impossible to find.
As for "an accident waiting to happen" . Electric fuel pumps will keep feeding fuel to a fire until the switch is shut off . In the case of an accident.
Or the car would take 12 to 15 cranks to get a startup after setting for a day.This also could be a fuel pump issue or leak down or the new alcohol gas evaporating or bad choke setting or all the above.... Just saying... Tedd
Or the car would take 12 to 15 cranks to get a startup after setting for a day.This also could be a fuel pump issue or leak down or the new alcohol gas evaporating or bad choke setting or all the above.... Just saying... Tedd
you're saying it would take 12 to 15 cranks with the old school pump? The old one and filter are completely bypassed, there is no return line, looks like. But I'm not sure where the elect fuel pump is, sounds like it's somewhere in the frame on the passenger side.
Welcome, I am also new to this site and have a 64 Starfire. They are beautiful cars. Yours looks to be well optioned and I like that color.
An important component with an electric fuel pump is a switch that cuts the power to it with a loss of oil pressure. Production cars have these, and I used one when installing an electric pump in my other car.
you're saying it would take 12 to 15 cranks with the old school pump? The old one and filter are completely bypassed, there is no return line, looks like. But I'm not sure where the elect fuel pump is, sounds like it's somewhere in the frame on the passenger side.
The 15 crank slow start after a long set is very common with these first generation engines so people who are used to fuel injection modern engines often go to a electric pump to speed things up.There are numerous reasons for this problem and some fixes will defiantly help in getting a faster startup. If mine I would first get all the little problems fixed then start looking for the reason why parts were bypassed, there is a reason someone went to all the trouble to eliminate major parts and one needs to back engineer and see what the problem really is then repair it correctly... Just my thoughts... Tedd
The 15 crank slow start after a long set is very common with these first generation engines so people who are used to fuel injection modern engines often go to a electric pump to speed things up.There are numerous reasons for this problem and some fixes will defiantly help in getting a faster startup. If mine I would first get all the little problems fixed then start looking for the reason why parts were bypassed, there is a reason someone went to all the trouble to eliminate major parts and one needs to back engineer and see what the problem really is then repair it correctly... Just my thoughts... Tedd
I agree, I'm thinking I'll keep the electric one going as I work on the other lthings like the wipers, heater, gas tank. My guess is that there was a problem with the lines rusting out or some kind of coolant system problem. Next step though is to take care of the gas leak with the tank.
Question..could these things be disconnected if the car was used for racing? Ate those racing modifications? Forgive my ignorance.
A lot of racers will use an high volume electric pump to deliver a certain flow of gas, even when using a carburetor. You want a regulator too at that point.
They do make "flow through" electric pumps also. This is what I put on my Studebaker when I was having a vapor lock problem, and I kept the mechanical pump in place. The car will run fine with the electric pump off, the gas still flows through it. I hardly ever use it, but its there.
Either way a safety shut-off should be installed. Mine is just like the one shown in this article. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...fuel-pump.html
A lot of racers will use an high volume electric pump to deliver a certain flow of gas, even when using a carburetor. You want a regulator too at that point.
They do make "flow through" electric pumps also. This is what I put on my Studebaker when I was having a vapor lock problem, and I kept the mechanical pump in place. The car will run fine with the electric pump off, the gas still flows through it. I hardly ever use it, but its there.
Either way a safety shut-off should be installed. Mine is just like the one shown in this article. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...fuel-pump.html
with out jacking her up I think I've found the pump, but not sure if there's a separate filter somewhere, also not sure where to look to see if there is a regulator.
It's doubtful someone did the modifications for racing reasons, my guess is parts are defective and were bypassed for a quick fix. Time will tell as you get further into the car.
Double check that rubber gas line from end to end as they deteriorate and crack with age. Tedd
with out jacking her up I think I've found the pump, but not sure if there's a separate filter somewhere, also not sure where to look to see if there is a regulator.
Looks like an Airtex add-on pump, the small round thing is a filter. Almost guaranteed this was a quick fix by someone who didn't want to take the time to do it right. The two biggest issues are the lack of an automatic shutoff switch and the possibility of too much pressure overwhelming the carb inlet needle. Check the carb to make sure there are no leaks when running. If not probably ok to use in the short term while fixing other things but I would put it back to stock at some point. By the way your gas tank leak might be from the return line inlet if it was not properly plugged when the line was deleted.
Looks like an Airtex add-on pump, the small round thing is a filter. Almost guaranteed this was a quick fix by someone who didn't want to take the time to do it right. The two biggest issues are the lack of an automatic shutoff switch and the possibility of too much pressure overwhelming the carb inlet needle. Check the carb to make sure there are no leaks when running. If not probably ok to use in the short term while fixing other things but I would put it back to stock at some point. By the way your gas tank leak might be from the return line inlet if it was not properly plugged when the line was deleted.
ill tell you what though, she's a real treat to drive. Oh yeah I also forgot to mention the antenna was removed. I think whoever had her before me focused mainly on just getting her to where she is now. My feeling is that she was in a lot rougher shape before.
May 12th, 2017, 10:24 PM
