Starter and bell housing issue
#1
Starter and bell housing issue
Hello all,
I have a 1972 cutlass S I am converting to a muncie 4 speed. I finally got the starter on last yesterday and when I cranked it over it made a terrible sound. I checked under the car and the gear that makes contact with the flywheel would not retract. It would just get stuck. So I went out and bought some shims to create the proper spacing. I was able to get a 1/16" shim but the starter is now tight againsr the bell housing. The gear is now able to retract but it still make a not so great sound. I am using the starter I've had on the car since I bought it and the flywheel I bought has 166 teeth and is for an olds. I'm not sure what to do. I have no more room to add shims but there's still an issue. Any help would be appreciated!
I have a 1972 cutlass S I am converting to a muncie 4 speed. I finally got the starter on last yesterday and when I cranked it over it made a terrible sound. I checked under the car and the gear that makes contact with the flywheel would not retract. It would just get stuck. So I went out and bought some shims to create the proper spacing. I was able to get a 1/16" shim but the starter is now tight againsr the bell housing. The gear is now able to retract but it still make a not so great sound. I am using the starter I've had on the car since I bought it and the flywheel I bought has 166 teeth and is for an olds. I'm not sure what to do. I have no more room to add shims but there's still an issue. Any help would be appreciated!
#4
I tried to check the clearance but I couldn't get a drill bit or an allen key in there because the bell housing is in the way. And yes, it worked fine for the flexplate before. I really don't want to have have to take it off and send it back. Would grinding a bit of metal out if the bell housing to add some space for another spacer be possible? I don't want to do that either.
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